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Joined: Mar 2025
Posts: 18
W
'Bolter
'Bolter
W Offline
Joined: Mar 2025
Posts: 18
Hello everyone,
Can anyone tell me which screw or screws I need to adjust to keep my hood from flapping at 20 MPH. It flaps right at the top on the picture as seen next to the firewall.
If I were to guess I would say the hinge needs adjustment but I wanted to ask y'all who hopefully have been down this road before.
thx
Attachments
1953 hood pic 1.jpg (38.43 KB, 82 downloads)
1953 Hood pic 2.jpg (47.15 KB, 81 downloads)
1953 hood pic 3.jpg (34.72 KB, 82 downloads)

Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 4,392
Gearhead, Stovebolt Tech and Parts Tracker, Mod for Swap Meet and GTT
Gearhead, Stovebolt Tech and Parts Tracker, Mod for Swap Meet and GTT
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 4,392
Wade - Yes to your hood hinges needing adjustment to pull it down some in the rear and perhaps some other adjustment too. In looking at your 2nd pic, I can't see any rubber strip along the cowl that acts as a buffer between the hood and cowl like shown in this sample pic below??? headscratch
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~ Dan
1951 Chevy 3 window 3100
Follow this story in the DITY Gallery
"My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine"
1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver)
US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Joined: Mar 2025
Posts: 18
W
'Bolter
'Bolter
W Offline
Joined: Mar 2025
Posts: 18
Hey Dan, Yes the rubber strip is there on the crowl. I have ordered a Shop Manual for things like this. I don't know which adjustments on the hinge to loosen ath this point for adjustment.
Many thanks

Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
Wade, to add to what Dan said, there's an adjustment to change the shape of the crown by adding or removing washers at the joint between the two side reinforcements. But you should only do that if the shape doesn't match the cowl. It's important to get the hood adjustment so there's firm contact with that rubber seal. The shop manual covers that. If you want to review it before your manual arrives, check THIS PAGE. It's from the 1947-1951 Shop Manual, but should be the same for your 1953.
Another item is to be sure there's some webbing or something between the hood skin and the supports. I've seen that condition called hood flutter. What I did was order some urethane rubber sealant 3M NVH Dampening Material ( big_eek I know, right? I paid a little over $50) and after inserting some shims in between the hood skin and supports to get the right shape, inject sealant in the gap to fill it. The stuff doesn't set up real hard - just enough to dampen any vibration. See attached pic.

This all assumes that you followed the Tech Tip HERE.
Attachments
IMG_6200.JPG (268.03 KB, 56 downloads)
Shimming and inserting anti-flutter material in the hood supports
IMG_6199.JPG (195.85 KB, 56 downloads)
Shimming and inserting anti-flutter material in the hood supports


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Nov 2021
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W
'Bolter
'Bolter
W Offline
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 1,066
I can not emphasize enough that if you are going to adjust your hinges you need to follow the Tech Tip procedure Kevin linked above.

You can not cut corners and avoid steps like loosing all the fender mounting bolts.

It is hard to tell from your pictures but is your hood tight against the rubber strip when closed? If so hinge adjustment may not help and Kevin's solution for hood flutter may be more appropriate for your situation.


1949/50 3600 Project
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Moderated by  klhansen 

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