We've been talking about an FM/MP3/Bluetooth radio for the 1954 and first series 1955 pickup and Kevinski has been kind enough to send some measurements. Helpful because like the Task Force trucks I don't have these to actually see...working blind so to say. The work on the Task Force model is almost finished. I'm just working on a decent antenna connection now. Not a lot of room to work on that one.
I have done some work on the plate to hold the actual radio piece for the 1954 and 1st series 1955 and thought you might be interested to see what is involved.
First, I cut a piece of solid core plywood to the right size (8 3/8 x 1 7/16). Second, I radius the edges and sand a bit to be certain I like the look. Third, I determine the center point and use the CNC machine to slowly cut out the recess for the radio faceplate. It takes about an hour following several directions for the x, y and z axes. Fourth, I sand and clean up any stray wood threads or pieces and check the fit of the radio faceplate.
Next I'll seal it, let that dry well, sand again, seal again and then we'll make a silicone mold for the fiberglass. More to follow as time allows...
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Stewart2 1955.1 3100 Both Owner and P/U have lots of miles, lots of history and need LOTS of TLC Jack of several trades and experiences; Master of none
Thanks! Glad you like it. I've sealed it and it is now drying. That will take between 24 and 30 hours. I'll sand lightly to make sure it looks good to me and then I'll make an extended well for the center cutout and then the silicone mold work will start.
I'm going to need some help on a scheme for the speakers. I think (and I'm operating from memory) the original AM speaker was a 6 inch by 9 inch oval that was fastened to a fiberboard piece which was held in place using 3 metal clips (which were twisted to hold it in place). My hope is to figure out a mounting plan to let us use twin 3.3 inch high quality speakers (since we will have stereo). I think I know how the fiberboard piece can be anchored at the bottom. Some digital images of the dash (underneath images) will be helpful. I need to find something up top that will offer an attachment point. In the AD, I had the luxury of using the two screws that hold on the radio grille trim.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
A small progress report. Yesterday a fiberboard piece was cut to raise the piece in the mold (to make the cutout rectangle sit higher). This was attached to the piece using double sided adhesive and then a mold box was made using common cereal cardboard (coated side facing inward). The piece was attached to the bottom of that box to keep it stable. Then the 2 part silicone was mixed (it took 100 ml), poured into the mold box and tape was put across the sides to keep them from falling outward. Then the silicone was poured in and this was left for apx 18 hours. Removed from the box this morning and all looks okay...a couple of spots I didn't exactly like but I believe it will be okay. The slight defects look to be "innies" which will leave "outies" on the finished piece which can be sanded off after the fiberglass cures. After the mold sits for a while I'll see how it does with fiberglass cloth and resin.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
If anyone is interested here are the other molds...one for the AD and another for the Task Force types. I didn't have any more colored silicone to use on this one.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Just FYI Jon: The 55.2-59 GMC Radios (Blue Chip models) is sort of upside down from the Chevy TF radios. The bezel that sticks through the dash is VERY similar, but is on the bottom front of the radio and mounts in the rolled bottom edge of the dash that is GMC specific. I've attached the SAMS for the GMC radio.
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
Stewart2 1955.1 3100 Both Owner and P/U have lots of miles, lots of history and need LOTS of TLC Jack of several trades and experiences; Master of none
Thanks guys. Yes but I'm trying to figure out what the speaker panel can be attached to. I remember there were metal tabs in there but I'm wondering if there was anything above the tab I can see in your images there. Do you know what else is up there? Thanks again!
FYI, I poured the fiberglass into the mold tonight. We'll see in the morning how it looks when de-molded.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
1955 1 Series, I noticed a welders helmet in your first picture. I don't suppose I could talk you into coming up here and do my floor boards and kick panels, could I? LOL
S2
Stewart2 1955.1 3100 Both Owner and P/U have lots of miles, lots of history and need LOTS of TLC Jack of several trades and experiences; Master of none
Believe me, I am probably the last person you would want welding on your truck. Mine was a refugee from the scrapyard, so I can practice on it. It is a hodge podge collection of parts right now. I want to get off the body work so I can actually see some progress. Snails look at me in their rearview mirrors.
Last edited by 1955 1 Series; 04/09/202510:12 PM. Reason: error
The tabs appear to be bent over. I think they should probably be upright. As I said, refugee from wrecking yard. No telling what has been done to it over the years.
I think that truck originally may have had a radio. I also think those tabs fit through slots in a fiberboard plate which held the speaker. Our task is to figure out how to attach a speaker plate either in a different fashion or to utilize the tabs which may or may not be in place...
Thanks very much for the image.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Those tabs may just to hold on the grill screen that I have never seen as they may deteriorate over the years ,I found this on the old car Manuel site.
Thanks...it is. The measurements I had gotten from another blank-out plate were 8 3/8" and yours seems just a wee bit shorter. I made the mold for 8 3/8".
As for attaching it to the dashboard, there are two options. Which one I choose depends on how the speaker plate can be mounted. It would be really nice if GM had put some screws up there somewhere but they didn't.
Thanks again.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
They may be, Kevinski. Something had to hold the speaker plate in place, however. It was separate from the radio itself, so that is sort of a mystery. Thanks for the info!
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Thanks! It is one solution and I think it may be the best idea. It requires the use of screws that would be cast into the fiberglass piece but as long as I get an accurate measurement of the two holes (center to center) I can make a jig for that. The only thing that gives me pause is today's speakers are heavier and I would prefer there be some way to connect the top part of the speaker panel to the top part of the dashboard. I suppose support pieces could be cantilevered back to the flat surface below the radio opening. That's a possibility.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
A friend (retired engineer) says common 1/4 inch plywood should be structurally fine for this. His thought is to attach it on the back side of the dash using the two 1/2 inch holes, make the cutouts for the radio and speakers and put foam at the top to stop rattling, squeaking, etc and add some stability. Sheet metal is a good idea but handling (cutting speaker holes, other holes, etc) is going to be a challenge from my point. Another thing...I've been hoping two 3.3" diameter round speakers could be used. I don't have dimensions, though. Could somebody measure the speaker opening (height/width), please? Two small oval shaped speakers could be used but those are going to be more costly and not the same quality as the German speakers I prefer. Also if somebody could cut a piece of cardboard and set it in place on the back side. I need to see the angle and what difference it will make at the top. Thanks!
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Looked at the radio area and have more information. I tried get this out earlier today, but internet has been down until now. The delete cover is designed to completely cover the whole radio area, including the knob opening. Attaching photos to show dimensions on the radio slot. Hope this is more helpful.
How about simpler? I've checked 1/4 inch plywood this afternoon and I agree with my engineer friend. It has plenty of rigidity/strength and the cost factor is favorable. I think something like the quick and crude drawing below might be a starting point. The piece would sit in the trough below the radio and be held on at the bottom by screws/nuts...similar to the way the radio was intended to be attached. Two 3.3" diameter speakers would sit side by side and a foam pad (not shown in the drawing would sit at the top to prevent rattling.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
I was leaning towards steel as it would also make a good ground if needed. Would the old radio volume and tuning holes be used for mounting the speakers and radio unit?
Yes...Flat or slightly rounded (like modified carriage bolts) bolts and nuts would secure the plate at the bottom. In an ideal world we would have something at the top to attach to but we don't in this case, so a cantilevered rod might be a good and easy alternative. It depends on how it all fits/sits (the angle of the part of the dash where the knob holes are might cause the speaker plate to lean forward or be straight). From what I can see in all these images, it might lean about 5 or 6 degrees. Since I don't have one of these trucks to look at I'll have to depend on others for guidance. Steel or aluminum would be further down on my list of choices. Either will cost more to purchase and both will be more difficult and costly to work (cutting holes, bending, etc).
As for the two carriage type bolts, there are a couple of possibilities. The fiberglass cover plate can be recessed to fit over them or they can be cast into the fiberglass when the cover plate is made. The more I've thought about it, the more I lean toward recessing cuts in the cover plate and securing that plate and the radio with toggle anchors. What I mean to say there is the cover plate and the radio would sit independently of the speaker plate.
There is a handy channel at the bottom where the plate could sit but it will have to have something to prevent sideways motion (the two nuts in the volume/tuning holes). Also my experience has been anything on these trucks that isn't anchored will rattle, squeak, etc.
In the image below you can see what I'm thinking...the vertical line being the speaker plate, the bolt and nut at the bottom and a leaning (sloped) support rod coming up from the other edge of the dash channel there. It might be a U shape since that channel would run straight all the way across. If any sort of bolt or securing device extended out of the speaker grille part of the dash it would make this an easy slam dunk but there is just nothing there. The other image sort of shows the fiberglass cover plate with the radio oval in it.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
And alternatively we could fasten locking clips like the ones shown below on the edges of the speaker plate. These would be pushed onto the edges of the grille bars (the outer edges of the outer bars, that is). That would keep the top part of the speaker plate from moving. Actually there are things about this approach (particularly from a DIY standpoint) I like the best. I need to get some and see what sort of thickness they'll work best with.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
This is a picture of the panel mounted in the 55.1 truck. The box on the left is the ashtray. I still need to cut out holes for the speakers and for the radio itself. It is mounted to the bottom of the dash panel. it clears everything and is about a half inch from the inside of the dash at the top.
Trial fit the radio and faceplate, and the quality is excellent. Jon is truly a craftsman. It is just sitting in the dash, and I will set it aside until the rest of the interior is complete.
Stewart2 1955.1 3100 Both Owner and P/U have lots of miles, lots of history and need LOTS of TLC Jack of several trades and experiences; Master of none
Stewart - Please PM Jon G for further discussion on ordering. I'm sure he will love to hear from you.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
I can wait till you get back. Sorry to hear about the flood damage. Good luck.
S2
Stewart2 1955.1 3100 Both Owner and P/U have lots of miles, lots of history and need LOTS of TLC Jack of several trades and experiences; Master of none
Here is the gmc version can’t wait to put it in ,waiting for my speakers they got lost or most likely in my area the truck went in the ditch so had to re order speakers .
Last edited by KEVINSKI; 02/18/20261:02 AM. Reason: Picture
Finally a little bit warmer and the snow has tapered off but still damp that goes through you but had some time and thought I would get this radio ready to be installed .Made a cardboard template then once I was satisfied that it will fit I found some metal but it was a chore to cut as it was leftover and a little on the thick side .
Nice work! Sound test next up, or not yet quite there?
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
That looks great! What would be the price of getting a copy of your template? You said the thickness is a little much; what would be your suggestion? Also, where did you get your speakers from and part #, please?
S2
Stewart2 1955.1 3100 Both Owner and P/U have lots of miles, lots of history and need LOTS of TLC Jack of several trades and experiences; Master of none
I can take some measurements for the speaker template for you .I used what I think was 16 gauge metal that I could barely cut with tin snips and my air nibbler struggled with and ended with a jigsaw with I thought was a metal blade lol.The speakers and hidden antenna are from Amazon .l have not tried any of them yet but the speakers are marine speakers and are water resistant .I think they said they were 4 inch but with the mounting lip they were bigger so if you look at my picture they were sliced down two sides on one side so they are closer together and fit so they point out of the dash grill area of about 8 inches .the bottom of the speaker frame has two holes that lined up with two holes that were already in the bottom of the dash that I used to fasten it to .I will take some template measurements and post them later .The template I made is simular to the one posted by another member on here so credit to his template and his may be better depending on the speakers used .
Stewart2 1955.1 3100 Both Owner and P/U have lots of miles, lots of history and need LOTS of TLC Jack of several trades and experiences; Master of none
DANG IT!!! I SCREWED UP AGAIN!!!!! Sorry, KEVINSKI!! I was going to ask 55 1 Series way back in Sept about his work up, but forgot. So when I saw yours, I thought I'd ask now or I'd forget again. Again, sorry.
S2
Last edited by Stewart2; 03/17/202611:29 PM.
Stewart2 1955.1 3100 Both Owner and P/U have lots of miles, lots of history and need LOTS of TLC Jack of several trades and experiences; Master of none
Okay here goes started off with a piece of I think 16 gauge metal but I thought I had a piece of aluminum but I could only find this so whatever you think is okay should work .The piece was cut to 16 by 11 1/2 ,from there I measured 11 1/4 on the 16 inch side with equal amounts on each end .From there I drew a angle to the corners(bottom).I cut the two triangle slices off .The bottom was measured in to 2 3/8 and the bottom corners need to be cut out so you can bend the bottom over ,now the bottom is not square so I just guessed by looking at the angle and left a bit when I cut the metal(shown by the dotted white ) so I could fold that over and spot weld At this point I bent it and the cardboard ended up getting in the way of the choke cable so I notched the end off ,the pice that was taken off measured 2 1/2 by 5 inch ,this was in the way of the choke cable. I suggest making this out of cardboard first so that you can test fit and make changes before you cut the metal ..Once I got this far and it fits in then I held it under the dash and scribed were the delete plate is open for the holes .The speaker holes are incorrect on the template as they were cut before I placed under the dash to test so when you have the test cardboard under the dash you can center were the speakers go and depending on the speakers you use you can cut the proper size holes .The speakers I used like I said above the trim needed to be cut to position the speakers closer together and keep the speaker close to the ash tray side as the speaker bracket goes right next to the brace for the ash tray.
Here are a few more pictures and the 16 inch measurement for the start piece was probably a little longer as they were cut angle shown would indicate about 2 inches longer tad it was cut off at the bottom so if you start with cardboard 18 inches long it will work out with the angle and you won’t need a longer piece of metal .I also welded little wedges were the piece was cut out for the choke for strength .Hope you can understand my jibberish let me know if you need me to ramble more Kevin
Here are the speakers and I was going to try this antenna on the back of my mirror to see how it works.Good idea to check with 55 first series as his may be easier with the speakers he used.
Here are a couple pics of the speaker mount I made. I used 1/8" steel to construct the plate. By using 1/8" steel the holes for attaching the speakers and attaching the plate to the bottom of the dash could be drilled and tapped. The plate is at a 70 degree angle leaning towards the front of the dash.