If something's rubbing, it ought to be easy to see what's touching what.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Edit: my neighbor started my truck while I was under the hood and the sound is gone!
Maybe the hood was rubbing? Open hood. Climb inside. Get neighbor to close hood and start engine. Still have noise??
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
So the balancer has to be installed as far as it will go. No exceptions. Why? The balancer snout holds the crank gear in place so the balancer snout butts right up against the crank gear, firmly.
Some 235 and 261 motors came with an oil slinger. If you have one, the install is crank gear on the crank, firmly, oil slinger slips onto the crank snout next, the harmonic balancer is installed all the way in, firmly so that it presses and secures the slinger to the crank gear and the crank gear to the crank. Then, install the thick washer, lock washer and balancer retaining bolt.
You don't want to be aligning the water pump pully by adjusting the balancer position on the crank snout.
Well, after the neighbor “ fixed it” by doing absolutely nothing, truck is running great and sound is gone. I drove about 2-3 miles with no issues/noises. Tomorrow, I will take her farther to see if the noise comes back.
I used a harmonic balancer installer from my local flaps. I used my waterpump pulley as a guide since I pressed it (waterpump) to align with the original balancer. Im at the same depth as previous balancer was originally set when it was rebuilt.
Here's the "sleeve and bearing retainer" I was referring to. It's specifically designed to assist in snug slip fit or pressed parts staying put. Probably not necessary, but "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure!"
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nkid275, ok so here is what you might consider. You used the water pump pully as a guide for the balancer install. You want to do it the other way around. If the balancer is not firmly against the crank gear, you run the risk of having the gear walk forward putting the cam timing events out of specification. That, and depending on how far out it may be (and it may not be out at all, you don't know at this point) you might have the crank gear far enough out that only a portion of the key is holding it in place and potentially having the key shear off, and otherwise to have the balancer to work itself on the crank snout ruining the balancer and potentially the crank snout. Not really what you want to have happen.
So, you have gone this far, go a little further just to be certain. Consider going back to your FLAPS and get the balancer install tool, install it, and make sure the balancer is installed snuggly, firmly, absolutely against the gear. If there is a misalignment after you do that with the water pump pully, make your adjustments at the water pump, not at the balancer.
