I have a firewall mountable C/B assembly (see pictures). Now even I can figure out how to secure it to the inside of the firewall, but I am seeking advice, examples, pictures, etc, of how to secure the rear of this assembly to the area underneath the dashboard, in a safe and secure manner. Thank you!
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Man, that's going to be a tight fit. I would definitely attach a doubler plate on the outside of the firewall to spread the load.
Are you sure you need the back end of it attached to the dashboard? There is a stiffener on the bottom edge of the dash panel, so you might just be able to fab a couple of straps to bolt to that and your C/B pedal assembly. With a heavy and large enough doubler on the firewall it might be OK without attaching the rear.
[on edit] Mark got there first. LOL!
Now I'm seeing those two straps extending backward. Maybe those can just be drilled for bolts to the bottom of the dash panel.
Last edited by klhansen; 02/21/20256:26 PM.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
It is really not as big as the picture might indicate. It really ends at the back of the square tubing. The flat steel extensions are to aid in securing it to the dashboard area, and are completely removeable. I will post pictures in the months ahead if and when I get to actually positioning it. Guidelines say to get seat and steering column in position before you settle on positioning of Clutch/Brake assembly. Also, the C/B asembly on the outside of the firewall is a Hydratech hydroboost system that has a large plate to match the inside C/B plate (partially). The Wilwood master cylinder then attaches to the hydroboost system. The clutch is yet another Wilwood master cyclinder of much smaller size.
Today, all of this is "on the shelf". I will post pictures if and when we get to the mock-up stage with this build.
I used a C/B pedal assembly from an S10. I needed to modify the clutch pedal to get the clutch master acuator rod in line as the clutch master needed to clear the brake booster (the original S10 clutch master was located down low). I was able to modify the S10 bracket to mount to the underside of the dash. Not sure they will help your situation but a few pictures attached.
Thanks, WICruiser; Just seeing how you attached the back of your C/B assembly to the underside of the dash has sparked my ideas of how to secure my assembly.
