The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Interiors Refurbishing my steering wheel

I'd like to refurbish my bake light or resign steering wheel, but I've never done anything like it before. I searched a little on here but I couldn't find anything. I found this in an article online but I was wondering if anyone had any tips to add. It's not in terrible shape, but it has some cracks that may cause issues once I get my truck on the road. Thank you in advance!



"...Varying expansion at different temperatures or mechanical stresses caused by pulling or pushing on the steering wheel make a repair necessary - or in severe cases even questionable. If a repair still makes sense, a restoration can be carried out with a multifunctional milling cutter, sandpaper, epoxy resin and varnish:

Step 1 – Milling
Generously mill out larger and deeper cracks with a multifunction cutter. Mill down to the original substance.

Step 2 - Remove residues
In the next step, sand off the old paint completely. Remove all residues and remains of the router - it is best to clean with a silicone removerr so that dust and grease remains are completely removed.

Step 3 - Fill cracks
Now use a filler element. Decide on either:
epoxy resin or epoxy compound, the professional solution
or 2K polyester resin (cheaper than epoxy resin, but has a lower adhesive property, e.g. on metal), feasible if you have nothing else to hand at the moment.
For larger cracks, glue in a filler to bridge the gap.
If you use epoxy compound, be sure to press the compound in all the way to the metal core to fill the entire crack. If the compound sticks too much, it helps to wet your fingers from time to time.
Tip: Simple, straight cracks at the separation points of the steering ring can also be closed with PU sealant: Simply tape both sides of the crack in a ring, inject PU sealant, then smooth with soapy fingers.

Step 4 - Sanding
First roughly sand any protruding areas with the multifunction cutter, then with sandpaper (e.g. first 120 grit, then 400 grit, then 600 grit) until the steering wheel is ready for painting. If your steering wheel has nicks and other damage, sand out to shape as well.

Step 5 - Cleaning and priming
Clean the entire steering wheel again - preferably with silicone remover. Then paint it with filling primer and let it dry for at least one day. Sand the primer thoroughly again the next day. It is best to use 600 grit or higher for this.
Step 6 - Painting and finishing
Once the primer has dried, you can start painting: Spray on several thin coats of paint or 2-K polyethurane acrylic lacquer at sufficient intervals. The cured lacquer can be polished to the desired shine.

Tip: The rules of a good paint job apply: cleanliness, chemical consistency of the materials used and patience. If you are working in the garage, it helps to run the room with a water spray bottle - this binds the coarsest dust."

I fixed the cracks in my steering wheel (they all get them) using an epoxy product called PC2. It's fairly stiff so doesn't run like some epoxy does. Use something like a hacksaw blade to clean the cracks out. Be sure to degrease everything before you start. You'll probably got thru a couple rounds of filling and sanding. Once you have it patched, paint it using normal procedures.

Thank you, klhansen! Do you remember what kind of paint you used? My husband has a 1968 Camaro that also needs to have the steering wheel painted. I've seen mixed reviews on different products online.

I refinished my steering wheel a few years ago. I used JB Weld epoxy, followed by high build primer then a top coat of Rust-Oleum Appliance Epoxy and it came out great but It chips fairly easily. I’m going to repaint it with 2K Epoxy (epoxy paint with hardener) which should be more chip resistant. Here is the post where I documented it.

I wouldn’t let a cracked wheel stop me from my first drive. The wheel has a steel core, so the cracks are superficial and only cosmetic.

Although not directly info on "restoring" a steering wheel, this recent thread by Bolter mick53 has a ton of related info on the materials and paint used in his steering wheel modification project that should also apply to your refurbishing work. Hope this may prove helpful in addition to what the others have already posted.

Phak1 & Gdads51 - Thank you! I've taken screenshots, and I'm checking out the links now. Much appreciated!

The paint I used on the wheel was the same as I used on the steering column. PPG's Commercial Performance Coating line of Alkyd Enamel (ALK-200) that I got from Jim Carter. I did use black epoxy primer in a rattle can that I got locally. I don't recall the brand. It has a plunger in the bottom that breaks a hardener capsule to activate it.
As far as durability, I haven't driven the truck much, so can't comment on that. The paint is easy to apply and looks good.

The key to success is proper cleaning of where you opened up the cracks before you fill them. I like laquer thinner applied with a small paint brush, then immediately blow it dry with compressed air.
I have used 3M panel adhesive which has strong adhesive properties and sands nicely. If you chose a filler which is significantly harder than the surrounding steering wheel material, it becomes difficult to blend the filler surface even with the surrounding original material. Sort of like trying to sand a rock next to a marshmallow.

Good point on cleaning the cracks out. That is an essential step. I used wax and grease remover. The PC2 material I used was pretty close to the hardness of the surrounding material, so smoothed out fairly well.

I have recently been doing a little fiberglass repair on our jet ski. After using glass mat and resin, I did the final forming and contouring with Marine Tex 2 part epoxy putty, this is my first experience with the Marine Tex, it does not have the same surface hardness as the resin. I think fiberglass resin might be the better choice to fill the steering wheel cracks.

Klhansen, 52 Carl, and 78buckshot - thank you so much for the information!

I think I would use the 3M PA too. Filling the cracks might not help with the structural aspect of the wheel
if the cracks are throughout.

The cracks don’t affect structural integrity. The wheel is made of steel encased in some type of plastic. The cracks are strictly cosmetic.

You don`t understand , the plastic around that cracked. Or will get larger.
3m panel adhesive is a much better choice than JB weld you used.

Sorry, I thought you ment the structural integrity from a safety viewpoint while driving.

I agree, 3m panel adhesive is a better choice, however I repaired my wheel four years ago and the there is still no signs of cracking. Many other ‘Bolters on this forum have similar success stories repairing their wheels.

The main reason I didn’t even consider it was the cost. 3m panel adhesive is quite pricey and you also need to buy a dispenser to use it.

Cut and pasted the following from one of my posts back in 2015: “I was pretty much done with my rod-storation and really wanted to keep my original steering wheel, for all kinds of reasons, but it suffered from the typical cracks in the corners and would not have looked right as it were, with everything else in the cab looking fresh and new. Unless you're a purist, an option is to get the wheel Line-X coated. (or Rhinoliner or etc). The Line-X bridged the 1/16”+ cracks in my wheel and left a grainy texture which feels right, plus it makes the wheel a bit fatter for a better grip. Line-X holds paint real well so I decided on Rustoleum grey to match my interior. I continue to get all kinds of favorable comments when I show the truck. Cost: $30 and a rattle can of paint. Here are some pics……”

As a follow up to the above : that Line-X coating looks as good today as it did when I first did it 10 years and 8000 miles ago.
Good Luck, Dave

Bedliner material would be an excellent choice for a steering wheel. A talented applicator can vary the texture from smooth to rough, and I think that the textured rim would be appropriate, but would prefer smooth on the spokes and center. That's just me. The self-applied kits can be tinted, but that would make the application tricky unless you have lots of practice. I have a pressure cup spray gun used for thick paints (did some repairs on a friends Zolatone coated boat deck - pic) that I could try with bedliner. That would probably give better control than a shutz gun.

Thank you all so much! And thank you for the the pictures (I'm a visual person). I've taken screenshots of everything, and I've put it in my "restoration" folder on my phone. Much appreciated!