The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Fixing the old truck

BUSY BOLTERS
Are you one?

Where is it?? The Shop Area

continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
6 members (Gib70, JD1, Donf, Forty9, tclederman, 1 invisible), 520 guests, and 1 robot.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics126,776
Posts1,039,271
Members48,100
Most Online2,175
Jul 21st, 2025
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#157024 03/26/2002 2:07 AM
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 234
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 234
Spent the weekend "raising the roof" in the shop - literally! One bay is now 10ft high, and the other will get the same treatment (13ft vaulted) next weekend. Now it seems awfully dark in there...

My initial plan is to have one switch turn on general lights over the stairs, over the work bench, and over the main bay. There used to be 4 flourescents (2 in each bay) and 1 bulb over the stairs - but I will be going all incandescent now. Just enough light to get you in and out, but it's never been bright enough for working on anything.

Then I am thinking of adding individual lights over each bay in the garage - so 2 or 3 more individual circuits, one over each parking space. I was planning on using the inexpensive recessed lights ($20 each+bulb) with about 2 on each bay. Should be enough for everything except under the hood.

And as much as I'd like to spend $485 per light that's kindof out of my budget... smile

Any suggestions on good shop lights, or mistakes to avoid? Thanks!

-Boyo


'48 Willys CJ-2A / '55.1 Chevy 3600 / '66 Austin-Healey 3000 / '04 Volvo wagon (parenthood!?)
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,773
F
'Bolter
'Bolter
F Offline
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,773
First, paint your ceiling white (upper quarter of walls helps, too). I have standard porcelin bases (no plastic) with 200 watt bulbs, works pretty good. You could add some adjustable floodlamp fixtures aimed for help under the hood, if your climate doesn't get too hot in the summer. I prefer a combination of flourescent and incandescent, the summers get a bit hot round here.


Fred
52 3600
69 C-10
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 1,586
T
Extreme Gabster
Extreme Gabster
T Offline
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 1,586
Boyo, mount flourescent strip fixtures on the sides of the bays ,so the light will be focused on the vehicle sides. Overhead lights just illuminate the vehicles roof.In my opinion,recessed cans generally provide poor overall lighting with sharp shadow lines.General illumination in industrial shops is either flourescent fixtures or HID fixtures, and hand lamps used for task lighting.

Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 203
F
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
F Offline
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 203
I put in four 14" X 50" skylites, the bottoms of the boxes are 14" x 72" to allow reflection I then painted the boxes and the ceiling with white enamal. Most times when I go to turn off the lights during the summer - they aren't on, it's that bright in there. (So I guess you could say that the lights are off and someones home?)

A
Anonymous
Unregistered
Anonymous
Unregistered
A
Boyo, I just re-did a couple cheapo / cheezie 4' flourescents made in China jobs that I bought about 15 years ago with new solid state ballasts and the newer T8 tubes. I bought the ballasts that handle 4 bulbs at a time and set the 4 footers 2 feet apart end to end above my work bench. THEY ARE SWEET!!! and all it cost was about $40 for a ballast and 4 tubes to do each pair. A new 4 tube solid state fixture was $79 + the cost of tubes so I saved a few bucks and didn't have to throw away good sheet metal. If you go with flourescents spend the extra bucks and get solid state. They light right up in freezing weather and NO ANNOYING BUZZZZZ. . . plus you can pick from a variety of cool, warm, full spectrum colors. Buy as high a wattage as you can get too. I think mine were 4 x 36 Watt.

Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 427
O
'Bolter
'Bolter
O Offline
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 427
I put 8' double high output (HO) vapor tight fixtures in my shop and I'm VERY happy with them. Since they are vapor tight, no dust gets in em and therefore no cleaning is required...ever. They are pricey relative to the cheapy 4'ers that you can get but as my friend Bill says...you get what you pay for each and every time.

These vapor tight HOs put out a boatload of light and I like them. I did not spring for the ones that start up quick in cold weather (can't remember what that change actually was) so they flicker some when they first start (only when its cold out) and they do make some hum noise. I have not yet replaced a lamp in any of them and it's been six years so I'm happy with them.

A
Anonymous
Unregistered
Anonymous
Unregistered
A
Florescents are the way to go, and painting ceilings white are a good idea too. I have a small wooden work shed, and it was dark in there, even w/ 4 100 watt incandescants. then I painted the walls and ceiling white, and tossed a 4' flor. over the workbench.. what an improvement.

Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 244
S
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
S Offline
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 244
Speaking of lights, ever have those droplight incandescent bulb burn out on you with the slightest "bump"? Well try putting in a florescent bulb that's made for the "screw" type application. I know it cost more, about $3-$4 but should last for years. Oh yeah, make sure the bulb will fit your housing, as you know they come in various sizes and wattages. wink

Joined: May 2000
Posts: 234
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 234
If you can't tell, I HATE FLORESCENTS!!!

Scientifically proven that they zap your energy level. Some people (including me) can see them "flicker" in their peripheral vision. Very distracting, nothing wrong with plain old light bulbs in my mind. smile

For the drop lights, I discovered that Napa sells "shock proof" bulbs. I forget what they were called, but I've dropped my drop light a few times and haven't killed a bulb yet! smile

-Boyo


'48 Willys CJ-2A / '55.1 Chevy 3600 / '66 Austin-Healey 3000 / '04 Volvo wagon (parenthood!?)
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 587
G
'Bolter
'Bolter
G Offline
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 587
Hate flourescents? :rolleyes: OK! See them flicker hey Superboy? grin Anyway, the import stores all have halegon "shop lights" that have little 3" long bulbs of high wattage at each end of a 4ft fixture tube. They don't flicker in cold and are pretty bright. I have more to put up someday. My whole garage interior is painted white and I mean Glossy too for easier cleaning, like if I do that! smile I have various switches so all lights aren't on unless I want them to be. AND, good idea to have some seperate lite/outlet circuits in case you "blow" a breaker and won't be left in complete darkness. I have high wide windows too, so to let light in and still be higher to have walls to use for things. Kinda like a basement window, just bigger. I like the skylight idea above, and like the fiberglass panels seen on some barn roofs to let in light. Can't insulate with the panels though. White paint made biggest easiest difference in mine. I also like the flourescents on the high wall idea. Your hoods, and garage door and other stuff blocks the overhead lites all the time. Might have to try that one. I also use halogen light on cord and small stand for under trucks and tight spots. Import places have those in single or double on high stands too. Gotta get some of those too someday. Storage is problem when not using on that kinda stuff. frown HD bulbs are just bulbs rated at 130 volts and you run on 120 volts, don't get full wattage out of them yet they burn easy as too low of power to them. Plus they have heavier glass too.


G.L. Grumpy's
Old Iron Ranch
Huntington, IN 46750


MM R tractor, Speedex
and Power King tractors
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,745
T
Member
Member
T Offline
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,745
fluorescents is still the way to go. If you replace your ballasts with electronic versions there will be no flickering. The old type ballasts work on the cycle while the electronic ones even out the current for constant light. They also have no heat, no hum and last longer.

Pricey but worth it. Standard fluorescents can trigger a migraine attack when I am so inclined.


54 3100 with 235
62 flatbed dump C60 with 261
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 272
B
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
B Offline
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 272
I have a single car garage and to suppliment the one 60 watt bulb I bought 2 500 watt floods the yellow ones at Walmart. Hang them on a wall, presto tons o light and portable if needed. $8.99 each replacement bulbs about $3. I havent needed one yet though. smile grin
Brad

Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 36
H
Member
Member
H Offline
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 36
Try this. Stop by the next garage sale and grab those old ugly tracklights ($2 will usually get you 4 to 6). Fit them with 75watt spots and point them at key work areas. They're easily installed, can be moved quickly as you discover new shadows and you can always add more. cheers


Moderated by  MNSmith 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0
(Release build 20240826)
Responsive Width:

PHP: 8.3.11 Page Time: 0.074s Queries: 13 (0.071s) Memory: 0.6479 MB (Peak: 0.7466 MB) Data Comp: Zlib Server Time: 2025-09-22 14:59:05 UTC
Valid HTML 5 and Valid CSS