part 2 of open driveline t5 swap thread to help any bolters with parts chasing/cost.
2004 colorado 3:73 open rear axle - facebook market - $200 outside axle flanges resized to 3.625 - local tool & die - $135 drive shaft/front yoke - local junk yard - $75 drive shaft shortening/balance - local drive shaft shop - $185 (2) rear leaf spring front eyebolts/bushings - truck shop 47-09102 - $48 (see pic 4 for 71 yr. old original bushing condition) (2) rear leaf spring shackles - truck shop 47-09023 - $92 rear axle saddles - cpp cp39 - $32 brake shoes - advance s936 - $36 cross shaft pin bolt - dorman 51048 - $6 (4) u-bolts 7/16-20 3"x9" long - auto value (local made) - $42 (2) qts. 75w90 gear oil - advance valvoline - $26 u-bolt tie plates - truck shop 47-09214 - $59 (12) lug nuts m14-1.50 - advance dorman - $34 (2) rear shocks - auto value -monroe 33049 - $64 rear shock extenders -heartbeat city -rep-1074 - $33 (2) shock mounting bolts - speedway 910-36095 - $26 axle case vent -auto value dorman 14689 - $4 u-joint yoke straps -auto value moog 530-10 - $12 front u-joint - auto value moog 354 - $16 rear u-joint - auto value moog 355 - $17 brake hose - auto value sng 2204698 - $14 bleeder screws - auto value dorman 13902 - $6 ------- $1162
torque tube axle outside brake drum to brake drum was 62" colorado outside brake drum to brake drum is 60 1/2" had to remove axles for shop to lathe outside flanges for wheels to fit. cross shaft 8mm pin bolt was conveniently stripped from factory (never been apart) used map gas, good vice grips and bfh to remove it shocks too short (bought before swap) had to buy extenders to work wanted to get new leaf springs but was'nt in budget (detroit eaton spring ml365 $295 a piece) used old u-bolts to shore up 71 yr. old originals (straps were rotted off) i installed axle/springs, squared up axle and set driveshaft angle to 1 degree down (trans was 1 degree up) and then welded saddles to axle tubes switched from mig wire to .035 flux core wire on my lincoln 140c for 1/4'" old 3 speed out put shaft to torque tube was perfect straight line new set up drive shaft angles to the pass side about an inch? wo'nt be an issue? hope everything works
Hey 69 coupe, I was thinking about the same swap. My concern is about the driveshaft running off center. Have you driven your truck since swap? I appreciate your list and cost of parts Thanks Rick
"69 coupe" - What year is the torque tube diff in that first picture? Years ago a friend was parting out an old Chevy and I took the diff thinking I might be able to used it. It's not the same as my '46, but has the swivel hinges for the leaf springs like yours.
Last edited by UtahYork; 02/12/202512:44 AM.
~ John in Utah 1946 1/2Ton w/4-speed manual transmission w/1960 235 engine Here We Go Follow in his DITY Bay
- If you think about it, it has been one year ago today!
AD series would have the swivel mounts for the springs. I'm thinking that one might be a '51-54 If it has a fairly large nut at the top of the backing plate for the anchor bolt. Kind of hard to tell from the photo.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
the torque tube rear i replaced was original to the truck (1953 3100) i can look and see if i have any more pics of the original rear for more detail if anybody wants.
