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#1569726 02/05/2025 11:43 AM
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 190
8
nothing beats a try but a failure
nothing beats a try but a failure
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Posts: 190
After the two coats of satin black single stage and two coats of satin clear had cured for several days I ran my hand across the roof. The finish had micro scuff marks from my hand. It looks like felt when you brushed in one direction. It will not come out. What on earth have I done? Any Idea's?


1955.1 3600 5 window 4 speed all original except the 410 gears.
In the Project Journal
87GN #1569732 02/05/2025 1:11 PM
Joined: Feb 2019
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AD Addict & Tinkerer
AD Addict & Tinkerer
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I had a similar situation about five years ago with base coat/clear coat. I had sprayed the vehicle in September in 65°dry weather, required for spraying but then we had a cool spell. For the next week, I’d park it in the garage then take it back out in the day so the sun could help cure it. I buffed it out after two weeks and it looked fabulous but you could dent/scratch it with your nails. I let the vehicle sit in the garage over the winter until the spring when it warmed up and let it sit in the sun. A few days under the sun in 70° weather, it finally hardened.


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
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87GN #1569739 02/05/2025 1:57 PM
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 1,841
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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87GN, what was the sequence of painting, was the roof last to get sprayed or first? It sounds like possibly there was dry overspray laying on the roof from painting the rest of the truck first, or overspray on the fresh roof paint from spraying it first and the rest of the truck next.


1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
87GN #1569758 02/05/2025 8:29 PM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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The paint I used says it takes 7 days to fully cure. I would wait and see if it hardens up, then possibly respray the clear, and DON'T TOUCH IT for quite a while. Check the Tech sheet for your paint and see what it says. Cold weather extends cure time quite a bit. I think that most tech info specifies curing at 70F and 50% humidity. I'll bet you're a bit cooler than that.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
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87GN #1569774 02/05/2025 11:02 PM
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When you spray in cooler weather you need to check the actual surface temperature’s of the vehicle. The surrounding air might be sufficient for spraying, but if the vehicle has been sitting in a cool or cold garage, it will take some time to get the body to spraying temperature. If the surface temp is low, it will extend the drying time sufficiently.


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum
87GN #1569875 02/07/2025 3:03 PM
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 190
8
nothing beats a try but a failure
nothing beats a try but a failure
8 Offline
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Posts: 190
How can I apply new satin clear on existing clear? I know scuffing will be involved. But will it stick?


1955.1 3600 5 window 4 speed all original except the 410 gears.
In the Project Journal
87GN #1569884 02/07/2025 4:59 PM
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 1,841
7
'Bolter
'Bolter
7 Offline
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If the current clear is cured but fuzzy, I would wet sand it with 400 - 600, not just a scuff pad. The total sanding will promote adhesion.


1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy

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