The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop More Steps Toward Engine Start, '54 235

When I bought the truck, the story was that the engine was a crate engine. It is nice and clean, so I decided to hope that maybe it has at least been rebuilt.
Engine Block casting number is: 3835911 Head Casting number is: 3835913
From the above, it seems that what I have came from the factory as a 1954 model 235ci engine intended for a car with an automatic transmission.

I have pulled the spark plugs and they look basically new.

With an inspection camera that was NOT made for this application, I took photos to see what the inside of the cylinders looked like. Only 3 cylinders showed anything that looked useful to my untrained eye. (I have not attempted to move the crankshaft at all yet. I figure that before I do that, I should put some oil/atf mixture into the cylinders and let them soak for a couple days.)

I can’t see too much from these photos, but I don’t see any rust which was what I was afraid of.

When I checked the oil, it was a bit above the full mark and so clear that it was almost impossible to see! I also have a question about the dipstick tube…is there supposed to be a tube sticking out of the block as I am used to on other engines? Is it correct for the dipstick to just stick out of the block?

The valve cover was not bolted down when I purchased the project and it looks pretty clean under there.

A fuel pump that came in a box with other parts with the project looks as though it might need some attention…!
Is this a fuel pump that would work on this engine?
Is this something worth rebuilding, having rebuilt or should I get something more modern if my goal is reliability rather than strict originality? It cast with “BC” and “Made in USA”.
I have seen a lot of folks saying that newer fuel pumps being made offshore are often defective. Should I bother with a mechanical fuel pump at all, or find a block off plate for the block and install an electric pump?

When considering the carburetor, I should mention that we are at an altitude of 7,150 feet above sea level.

The carburetor that came with the project is a Stromberg BXOV-2. It also has the numbers P-23852, and 1 5/32 on it. I have the impression that it was not originally intended for use on this engine. (The top of the carb is not tilted; it just looks that way as a result of the camera lens.)
Should I try to run the engine with this carburetor on it – or would that just be a waste of time.
Any ideas of what this carb would be ideal for?

Since the engine was manufactured for the 1954 model year, when I go to the auto parts store, should I say that I need parts for a ’54 Bel Air, automatic, or is it easier to keep the parts guy from having a heart attack by ordering things like fan belts and valve cover gaskets by part numbers? If so, would I get them from the 1954 Master Parts Catalog? Or is there a better (more up to date) source?

Sorry for all the detailed questions, but I have no local references to ask and it has been decades since I did this sort of thing!

Thanks!

That's a great fuel pump. The brand new ones from China don't work worth a crap. I sent mine to Then and Now Automotive and had them rebuild it. You can do it yourself with a kit that they sell, too.

Yours, like mine, has probably been gummed up with long-sitting ethanol. Several years and 10,000 miles later , it's still going strong.

Mechanical fuel pumps are fine. I don't own a single vehicle with an electric pump. My '56 Cadillac has been my primary vehicle for 24 years. Then and Now rebuilt that pump, too.

www.then-now-auto.com

As far as ordering parts, you'll find that most parts stores now have computers that go back to the 1930s. Parts for your engine aren't impossible to get. Belts, hoses, and other ancillary components are pretty easy to find.

I like to start with Rock Auto. www.rockauto.com because they have the most user friendly parts search website. From there you can get part numbers to check the competition if you don't want to buy online.

See if you can locate a Carter YF carburetor that's set up for a 235. Carbking, Jon H, will be able to tell you what part numbers to look for.

I purchased a rebuildable core and a kit from The Carburetor Shop and this carburetor also has over 10,000 miles on it with no problems.

Otto,

I see that your fuel pump has the inlet and outlet 180 degrees apart. The unit that came in the box of misc parts with my project has the the inlet in a very different location.

Since the only markings on the pump are BC and Made in USA, I wonder what the intended application was and if it will really work on the 235. I'm sure I can plumb it, but is the arm the proper length, etc?

My 216 has a dipstick tube. I don't know what a Chevy 235 for a car had. When you drain the oil prior to starting, fill it with 5 quarts and see where it is on the dipstick. If it's at the full line then you'll know that you don't need a tube.

I see. It does look a bit different. Contact Then and Now. They can probably identify it for you and tell you if it's correct for your engine. Perhaps cars had different pumps?

The pump pressure for your engine should be between 2 and 4 psi. If that pump fits the specs, the inlet and outlet orientation can be dealt with.

A rebuilt old pump - even and aftermarket replacement pump - is far and away superior to a new pump. Two brand new ones failed on me. One wouldn't pump a drop straight out of the box.

1. BXOV-2 was used on 216's. It's known as an "aftermarket" upgrade. Good carb. Not for your motor allegedly. Kits are available, pricey. Not used beyond 53. It's not hard to rebuild a carb. I would agree with a proper Carter. Your Stromberg is worth money.

2. Don't get hung up so much with "Made in America". Yes it's good to use a Made in America core. Carbs and fuel pumps are mechanical. They were manufactured with various methods: cast, forged, machined, stamped, crimped, riveted. Generally speaking the "mechanicals" are in good enough condition. Usable if not broken, warped, no white stuff from h e l l, or stripped threads. The perishables are the problem. By now, none of them are Made in America. Diaphragms, seals, gaskets, rubber.. likely made off shore. These units will have been "rebuilt" several times, If the builder can't find American, or they are too expensive, they use China. You don't know until you ask them. You will get this answer "sometimes we use off shore products"...so that's a YES. Good old Steel Rubber Company no longer can say Made in America. I would buy a new pump (I.E. Carter M2118) and a rebuilt or rebuild proper Carter. If you buy kits, ask the country of origin. It's OK if that is all there is, just saying Made in America is kind of past.

3. As far as your motor, I'm the wrong guy, I don't like taking apart motors. If I'm buying a used motor, I check compression, check fluids, hear it run and etc. BUT If they say it's just rebuilt, I run away.

4. When you are building/refurbishing older trucks or just looking for parts, you don't ask anybody at any store or website sales site.
You check here and get several ideas and part numbers. You also check, as said, Rockauto and lots of other sites, to see if they all match or there is some consensus from all. Then you try to buy local at a place with no questions return (O'Reilly's for example) or Amazon with good return policy. So that If it does not "FIT" you can take it back. Not send it back. Amazon has local return centers.Your defense to all the stories about bad parts is a good return policy vendor, near home. There is nothing else you can do about off shore quality, It is getting better as aftermarket retailers lose money on returns/warranties and pressure China. Just don't buy the next one at the same place. That may help. Don't buy from Podunk Joe with a short cigar. Buy from known customer friendly places. Bottom line is you search and find the correct part number yourself and then order/buy. You can not use old part numbers. Those are long gone, superceded 4X and then lost, not in anyone's FLAP computer. The companies that made them and assigned original numbers has been bought/merged several times with new PN's assigned.

5. These old trucks will run with recycled oil, Brylcreem for grease and baling wire exhaust hangers.

Your questions are great and are welcomed. Our answers may vary. We all have a set of experiences, opinions, suggestions. You have a certain goal and level of build/originallity/budget/abilities in mind. We don't exactly know about that.

Be aware that Rockauto is a great place to get a new'er part number to search with but they are VERY tight on returns sometimes. Their prices are low but "enhanced" to high with shipping.