The Stovebolt Site Forums Welcome! Welcome Centre Do It Yourself (DITY) Gallery 1946 Chevy 1/2Ton in Utah - Here We Go

Getting ready to work on the shocks. I hear them called "Lever Action" or "Knee Action" shocks. I'll get to cleaning off the 70+ years of gunk.

Sandblasting completed. All of them move freely, so I'll open them up and do a little cleaning before painting and installing them. Not sure what all the numbers are telling me.

John - Before you go "...open them up and do a little cleaning..." you might ask folks for more info on that aspect. These are hydraulic oil filled shocks with springs under tension. If you have never opened one up, you may be in a for an unpleasant surprise! Not to mention a very difficult time putting everything back together.

Edit Note: These are usually sent out for professionals to rebuild as they are not an easy in your garage rebuild from everything I have read. This page in the 1942-47 Shop Manual provides the beginning of shock service info. I would suggest reading all through that info before you try and tackle opening any of your shocks up.

On another note, your particular shocks are identified as "OPPOSED CYLINDER DOUBLE-ACTING SHOCK ABSORBERS INTERNAL VALVE TYPE". Diagram below is a screen grab form the 1942-47 Shop Manual.

Thanks Dan. I've been researching since I've seen that rebuilding these could take $200+ per shock. I was more looking into cleaning. Maybe a good spray cleaner that will remove any build up. I did find a YouTube video showing how to remove the internals, but I'm just thinking about a good cleaning. Maybe down the road I might try converting to regular shocks.

Clean them and refill them with oil. If they work properly, you're golden. If not, then rebuild them or send them off. Once they're done, they'll last the rest of your life. They actually do a decent job, too. The Phantom has lever action shocks and it's a smooth riding car.

There are several places that rebuild them.

OEM and custom shock absorbers, USA made coil springs and leaf springs, steering dampers for all makes and models. Rebuild service for original hydraulic and lever action shocks. Rebuild service for steering gears and power steering pumps

A-1 Shock Absorber Company
365 Warren Av. unit #101 and 109
Silverthorne, CO. 80498
800-344-1966 or 970-513-8283
http://www.shocks2springs.com/

Then & Now Automotive
www.then-now-auto.com

I don’t know if they are similar to mgb shocks but if you look on YouTube under mgb shocks they have a few videos on how to revive them by putting I think auto trans fluid and working them to swell the seals and clean the inners then refill. Might be worth a look.

I drive right by that place when headed to Denver. I looked at the website and it says not to send the shocks to their address. I'm guessing they must send them out to get rebuilt.


I've seen some of those videos. Lots of MGB shock videos out there.

Opened my first lever shock. Those end caps were on very tight and I had to use a pipe wrench to get them off. No jack oil inside, but not dried out. Piston moves freely back and forth. The return side has a small valve plate held in with a spring and C-clip. The compression side has a spring loaded valve. I need to pick up some spray cleaner and maybe some little brushes. There is a welsh plug with a screw under it that holds the piston, but I don't think I'll be removing that.

Looks to be in good condition in there .

I got tell you, these lever shocks are wearing me out. I finally found time to get the fronts cleaned out, re-assembled and bled with new jack oil. I've set them on a paper towel in a pan to see if any oil leaks outs. Hopefully I can add paint and call them done. I'll see if I can get the rear shocks this week. On a happy note, my brake lines showed up - that will be after the shocks.

Update: Got the rear shocks completed today. Now for some paint.

Almost done with the lever shocks. Got them installed - now waiting for the rubber bushings and front shock links. When removing the links years ago, I broke the ends off three of them. Need to find some replacements for the rears or I'll need to repair the old ones.

Nice work! Those are purrdy! Even if they may not work like when new, they LOOK new.

Thanks Kevin. I thought I'd use these to get the truck back on the road. I may change to modern shocks later, but some have stated these lever shocks are pretty good.

As you probably know, these are the less common but better double action shocks. They use a different link from the more common single action shocks, so they can be hard to find used replacements. I had to repair my broken links by cutting off the rod and welding on a new length of 7/16 rod. After that I welded on a small collar near the end to match the original and finally threaded the end.

You do beautiful work, John.

As long as the shocks work as intended, I think you'll be satisfied. After all, you aren't going to be auto-crossing that rig. They look very similar to the shocks on my Packard which is heavier than the truck. They do a great job. Granted, the suspension springs are probably softer than the truck but the wheels don't hop all over the place when I hit bumps and potholes.

Yes - That's what I was planning to do. I'll have to see if my neighbor can help me with the welding part. If not, I was thinking about cutting and threading, and adding one of those threaded couplers. Then, maybe use some All-Thread and cut to length? But, I like the welding idea first. My rear links were different lengths, but not by much.

Interesting. One of those links is probably a replacement or from another year truck. Different lengths and different designs.

I wonder which length is correct for your truck/?

The top link in the picture looks like it was repaired looks like a bolt was welded onto it .

It’s inspiring to see what you are doing (and how) as you work through your project. Everything I have seen looks clean and professionally done. You are going to have a first rate truck to drive and enjoy for many years. More importantly, you are saving another truck so someone else can also enjoy it in the future. Nice work.

I'm thinking the top one is correct. An eBay seller sent me a spec page and it says the rear link should be 11.5 inches. If you add the broken thread to the bottom link it would be longer. But both are different, so I'm just guessing at this point.

Thanks Paul!

It seems that the only measurement that would matter is the distance from the "stirrup" holes to the seat between the rod and threads. The length of the threaded portion won't affect how it works.

Here's a picture of the front links with threads broken off. The spec sheet says they should be 9.5 inches. It looks like if you measure for total length and add the threads at the end, it would be around 9.5 inches. The rear links are not the same. The bushing stops look different and they are in different positions?

The stops were the same in the front and back links on my 41. I suspect the rear one with a different stop has had a previous repair as someone has suggested. Are those course threads on it? The originals would have been fine (UNF) threads.

Just checked the link that still had threads and they are 16 tpi. I'll try to find the broken off pieces and maybe I can re-thread everything the same.

While I'm waiting to figure out my lever shock link issues I was able to get the brake lines installed this morning. I got the preformed lines from Inline Tube Brake Lines and although not perfect, they were dang close. I had to bend, pull and twist a little bit on a few lines, but overall the brake lines were pretty good. I could not have bent these myself and have them look so nice. I have them all snug, but not tightened yet. I'll add the line from the brake master cylinder to the junction block after I get the engine, transmission and foot pedals installed. So happy with this progress. I couldn't have gotten this far without everyone's help. THANKS!

One thing I noticed when looking at my old pictures, the brake line went around a frame support and not through the hole. I decided to pass the new line through the hole.

Update: Added photo - Otto, I was able to find a rubber grommet for the brake line through the hole. I removed the line and stretched it over the fitting so I didn't have to cut it. Thanks for the idea!

I imagine it didn't go through the hole originally in order to avoid it being cut or damaged by chafing on the hole's edges. A grommet might be a good idea there.

That's a good idea. Thanks Otto!

Work planned for this week will be to remove the bell housing off the old 216 and get it cleaned up. Is that 75+ years of caked on grease? Ouch!

That bell housing looks like it's been sitting at the bottom of a chicken coop! Yuk!

John, was your truck driveable when you got it or before you started restoration? I don't remember.

Yes. I drove it for about 2 years (2001-2002?). One day I parked it in my garage and started pulling it apart. You know, back then I did nothing but put gas in it and checked the oil. Top speed was about 45-50mph.

Major milestone for me today. I decided to put the tires on just to see what it would look like. I'm feeling pretty good and texted some pics to local friends that have been interested in my build. All have stated they get the first ride. Now I have to get that engine and transmission installed. I'll lower the truck onto the dollies I picked up from Harbor Freight and I'll be able to move it around a little.

Update: Added wheel dolly photo.

First guy over to the house gets to ride shotgun. Everybody else gets to ride in the bed. Throw some hay bales in there for them to sit on or lean against.

I can pick up some hay bales from the farmer down the street!

Had to break out the engine hoist today. I removed the pressure plate, clutch disk and flywheel off the old '46 216 engine. I'll get the bell housing removed next.

Is the engine over on the shelf the one that's going in the truck?

Otto, No. That's the 216. I have a 235 that's going in. I'll keep the 216 until I know for sure I don't need anymore parts off it for my engine swap.