The Stovebolt Site Forums Project Journals Project Journals 1951 Chevrolet 3100 - "Father and Son Project"

Jeff, great project for sure. You'll be driving in the near future I suspect!

RonR

The button head cap screws in the last picture is what I used to attach the side angle strips and will be used for the rear fenders also.

Jeff - That looks like a job well done. Just a reminder to be sure and install the heat shield to the underside of the bed directly above the exhaust pipe where it's closest to the bed. You don't want to scorch or cause any combustion under there with that beautiful bed wood.

I have that shield and will do it before I close it up. I need to get the bit to recess the offset washers. Thanks for checking it out. It was another productive day.

Waiting on my bed bolts to be powder coated. So I started on stripping the seat cushion from the springs. Mess job for sure. Most of the time I'm sure seat have been destroyed by vermin and such. When I got into the bottom cushion I found what I believe to be the original burlap around the springs and remains of the original seat cover along the bottom edge of the seat frame. It was crimped onto the frame with a single long steel spring type clip.

After I got the springs stripped I sprayed them with cleaner and pressure washed them with my Hotsy. All in all there in pretty good shape. I will have to retie a few springs together and fix a few attachment bracket where the rivets are loose.

Also going to paint them to help prevent further rust and keep them cleaner. I have a new seat cover being made and am going to tackle that install soon.

Ron,

I Drove it all last summer without the box on it. PA laws for registered Antique vehicles doesn't require a state inspection. But it will definitely be nice to have the box and truck mostly complete. My goal is to have it done by May as it will be 2 yrs since I purchased the truck. I still want to do a gear swap in the rear and install a Fenton dual exhaust manifold and a carburetor up grade.

Put a late night in at the shop last night. After getting the bed to frame bolts back from powder coating. I got started putting down the bed strips and hold downs. One thing lead to another and in about 4 hours time I had it all complete with the exception of two screws.( one above each frame rail in the second cross sill from the front. Still not sure how I'm going to get them tightened. Will have to think on it. Got out of the shop just before midnight. Anyone have a trick let me know.

Nice work, Jeff.
When I assembled my bed, I installed the wood and strips with the bed sitting on a couple of sawhorses. So there was nothing in the way of any of a straight shot to the nuts for the bed strip bolts.

I used a socket with two nuts in it so that the threads would start on the bolt. Maybe a deep socket with a spacer to hold the nut up near the end on a u-joint would work for you. I also have a springy flexible 1/4" extension (similar to this) that might help you get in there.

Looking Good! I love the black hardware with the green!

If you loosen/remove the nuts on the bolts that hold the box to the frame, you might be able to lift it enough to get a socket on it.

Thanks guys, just no room . Up inside the cross sill, right above the frame rail. I got the nuts started no room to get a wrench or socket. I tried a fine tooth 1/4 drive rachet.

I think Phil's suggestion would be easiest, although if you got the nuts started, with a socket and u-joint and some extensions, you should be able to tighten them. Getting the socket on the nut would be the hard part.

Jeff - Maybe something like This would let you get to it? If more flexibility is needed, maybe This? Another possibility might be This?

Just another tool, but we Always Need Tools - LOL!

Thanks Dan . I will try to get to them tonight. I used nylon nuts on the whole bed. But for these two I may just use a nut and lock washer so I will only have to snug them up a turn or so once I thread them all the way into the bolt.

Dan.
After I stepped away from it and took off the rear tires I was able to get a 1/4 inch socket with a universal joint onto them and get them tight. Just a matter of getting into the right position to get the job done! Was much easier at 4:30 in the afternoon than 11:30 at night. !!

Good show Jeff!!!

Fresh eyes get new ideas!

Ya. There have been times when I've tried for hours to get a tricky job done with no success. I walk away for a time or even a whole day and return and often solve the problem in 10 minutes.

Yesterday I managed to get all the brackets and springs in my seats squared away. Had to make a new lower seat cleat that hold the seat into the frame. Sprayed them with a few good coats of POR. Should be good for another 76 yrs now!

So this morning I decided to get my tail lights wired up.
I had previously ran all the wire to the back. So got started and got everything all hooked up and sealed with heat shrink tubing. Went to test lights and... ........ nothing.
Forgot with the rubber blocks , or wooden for that matter, between bed and frame no good source of a ground.
So I took a motorcycle battery cable and attached it to the frame and rear bed cross member. Shake proof washers for a good contact a must. Everything works as it should now.

Dan ,
This tag was attached to the bottom of my seat springs through one of the rivets on the bench section.
Just wondering if it is of any significance to any of the purists out in Stovebolt Land. If anyone could trace the numbers you can. They are welcome to it if they want it.

It reads SG - 3676450 . In case it's harsh to see in the picture.

Happy Hunting!

The seat bottom of my truck had a paper tag on it, attached by a hog ring.
L.A.Y.
3696078

Yours appears to be a PN tag as well, but I couldn't find the number in the GM Parts Wiki

Amazing what you find on these old trucks

Jeff, I've done a dive through the original paper Chevy Master Parts Catalogs I have on hand but have struck out on that specific number. At least in my books and the GMPartswiki that Kevin referenced. It's more than likely it's a part number for the piece it was directly attached to, with the "SG" probably identifying the contract supplier of the assembly. Where exactly was this tag riveted?

Dan it was on the bottom seat frame. It was attached to the left front bracket that holds the seat in place. I was missing the right side so I removed it so I could copy it. When I drilled the rivets out it was on the backside.

Took a little time yesterday and started the upholstery job on my seat. I went with a Company called Marine Vinyl Fabric and purchased one inch foam topper , firm for the seat and med density for the back. I also purchased a product called Flexa to be used in place of the burlap. Seems to be a very sturdy and durable product. It's a marine grade mesh that is used as an underlayment in boat seats. All the foam which is also marine grade is list as anti microbial as well. Hopefully it will last. Still looking for a good source for the batting to go over the foam before the seat cover.
I personally went with the newer technology when trying to complete this seat project. There is a lot of good products out there today to help improve the seats. J̌MO. Hopefully it will pan out. Will keep you updated.
Just a little heads up. I purchased the hog rings which came with pliers from LMC Truck. Don't waste your money. The pliers were a BIG FAT POS.! And that's not exaggerating. Even the hog rings are too square to set them in the pliers. Going in search of some go pliers today. For what little I did the pliers made for a very aggravating experience. My custom seat cover should be here next week. So if I purchase a better quality hog ring pliers and never use them again it will be money well spent.

Over the last few days I was still awaiting the arrival of my seat cover so I decided to move on to another task.
I had my Fenton exhaust and spare intake blasted and then paint with VHT Flamproof paint and bake. Also got the existing manifolds removed from my engine. Was able to get new gasket from my local FLAPS. I also removed my oil filter canister. And after some discussion in the Engine Shop Forum I decided to leave the canister off for now and plugged the ports.

Now that I got the replacement manifolds installed, I need to decide which carburetor to use. The truck had ran well on the Rochester that was on it. The Weber was given to me when I purchased the manifold so I may try that. First obstacle I need to over come is to how to set up the throttle linkage. The mass of the back Fenton manifold is definitely in the way of the stock linkage.

So if anyone has done this swap in the past and has pictures or parts source to rectify this problem I would certainly be interested.

Thanks

Stainless Steel Adjustable Throttle Cable [24 in. Length] or bend the rod you have. Try flipping it.
Then bend to work.

Thanks I will give that a try. I was looking a cables from LoKar. Just didnt see anything that I thought would work. Would you use a new foot pedal and cable and bracket for carb?

you might have fab something for the pedal. Instead of something new. www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/157018/1000...lVvhmfcPd3XZ1lhtI-035a3KZb0aAvVuEALw_wcB

BD,

Hey I was able to use the stock linkage. I just need to turn it around front to rear and tweek it a bit and in hooked right up using the Rochester Carburetor. So I will run with that for now. Have an appointment for the 23rd to get the exhaust custom made for it. I believe im going to exit the exhaust just in front of the left rear tire from under the running board.

Is there a reason for the twist in the fuel line?

Otto. It does look really pronounced in that picture. I guess a little different from this angle. To answer your question , No other than to get it to the carburetor smoothly without and kinks.

Ya, that looks more normal/logical.

My custom seat cover got here this week. I ordered it from a Company called B62 Upholstery. The girls name was Emily who i believe is the owner. Very helpful. She also hooked me up with a good quality pair of Hog Ring pliers which were made in the USA. It made all the difference in having a good experience doing my seat restoration my self. Well worth the money. Highly recommend get a good quality pair of pliers. Emily also sent me the daycron padding to go over the foam. If your in the market for a custom seat cover give her a look. Her website is interactive and has a lot of choices.
I also watched a bunch of YouTube videos of Randolphs Upholstery were were very informative. He recommended that specific brand of spray adhesive. I went with the aerosol can type adhesive and didnt have any problems despite the bad reviews of the spray can. No issues with contact or strong bonding either. Keep in mind my shop is well heated which I feel makes a difference.

I have a ton of pictures completing this task. It really went pretty smooth for me. All in all took me about 5 hours to do the prep and get the seat covers installed. In the past l had installed covers on motorcycles, snowmobiles and golf carts. This was my first attempt at a spring seat and hog rings. I can't stress enough to get a good set of pliers. Also was key to mark centers on cover, springs, and foam to assist when assembling. A good sharp pair of scissors is also a must.

That looks amazing Jeff. The colors really fit your truck. Great Job!

Thanks Phil. Off to get exhaust pipes made tomorrow.

Looks really good, Jeff!
How did you set up your shoulder belts?

Hello Nick,
I used a long open-end wrench to slide up into the b pillar. I attached a nylock nut along with the supplied fender washer to the wrench using rear window installation glue/putty that I had a roll of in my toolbox since I don't know when. It's really sticky but I was able to pull the wrench down off from the nut once I had I tightened up. I also used a drill bit stop attached to the bit so as not to go in to far and dimple the outer body panel. I believe the manufacturer was Beam and it is the retractable style with the aviation buckles. I attached the retractor directly to the floor in the corner. It seems to work well. I did not purchase the kit. I came with the truck when I purchased it. It takes a little patience's but once you get the nut started on the bolt your home free. Good luck.

Nick, and Thanks for the compliment and for checking out my journal.