Do you guys put dynamat or similar under your firewall pads and floor mats? I have a firewall pad from lmc with the blanket type insulation bonded to it, and don’t have a floor mats yet. My truck is certainly not perfect but the goal is to make an original appearing truck that drives good.
On my 46 I cheaped out a bit and used the Summit Racing version a few years ago. It was worth the effort. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-879024 They have a 5 or 9 sheet packs available, sticks well- no smell. Made a significant difference on my 46, did firewall, floors under the stock rubber mat, behind door panels, lower rear wall of cab…did not do roof as didn’t want to take on R&R of a now perfect headliner. I closed all non used holes in firewall with washer/ bolts before installing. Used a deep socket as a roller to smooth it out which really helped. Surprising how solid the doors sound with just the back side of door panels done(didn’t want anything on door exterior or bottom for potential moisture issues)..
On my 1950 3100 I used the below stuff. I bought a hard plastic roller and it went on easy. No smells, off gas. I put it everywhere! In the doors, on the interior gas tank, roof, floor, ect. Made a 100% difference in sound, noise reduction. It keeps it cooler in summer and warmer in winter. Just my 2 cents. I got several rolls at my local Lowes. Then I put the original style one piece rubber mat! Works great, broom it, even hose it out. It's a working ranch truck. Todd
Last edited by Shaffer's1950; 12/10/20244:56 PM. Reason: Spelling correction..lol
I used HushMat on the Galaxie many years ago and it was cheaper than Dynamat. In the future I'll use Shaffer's suggestion. I've seen others do it and it gives the same results as the expensive stuff.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
I bought KilMat from Amazon and so far placed in it my doors. It is half the price of Dynamat and works well. Here is a link!
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
I used the Peel & Seal on my '49 everywhere. It is not as thick as Dynamat, but is much easier to form into corners and curves. it does an excellent job at keeping the heat out and reduces the road and engine noise to the point that all you hear is the whistling door windows.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Seems to be pretty good agreement that the various flavors of butyl-foil work very well. I do recall some discussion that it might NOT be the right choice for underside of the roof skin. Not great at blocking that heat…I think that was the complaint.
Park it in the shade? I used the Peel & Seal on the underside of the roof and on the underside of the cowl forward of the windshield. Does it keep the heat out? I don't know. I don't have an infrared thermometer to test it. The headliner sure does help keeping the heat off of my bald head.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Lingda 10mm Heat Shield Thermal Sound Insulation Proofing Deadener Mat Car Noise Control Acoustic Dampening Moistureproof Waterproof (40"X80") I use this.
Any noise reducer will work...and here's how: the foam soaks up some of the noise and the metal layer (essential) converts the vibrations into heat energy and reflects them back into the foam.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
I used some Dynamat-like stuff I got from a marine supply place. They use it on fishing boats that run to Alaska and such. It's expensive but it does cut the noise and heat considerably. That said, my cab is still too noisy on the hiway. There's tire noise, exhaust noise, gear noise and biggest of all wind noise. With the camper off, the noise level drops to tolerable-without-ear-plugs. Same is true pulling a trailer -- most of the wind noise is behind me even though the engine is working just as hard.
1951 3800 1-ton "Earning its keep from the get-go" In the DITY Gallery 1962 261 (w/cam, Fenton headers, 2 carbs, MSD ign.), SM420 & Brown-Lipe 6231A 3spd aux. trans, stock axles & brakes. Owned since 1971.
One other place to apply an acoustic mat is on the roof of the cap…I have a 1/2” thick peel and stick pad that I got from dynamat (I think) that I installed on the inside roof panel, and then installed the cardboard headliner over it. My cab is very quiet- but I also have dynamat over the entire floor, under the seat, along the back wall below the rear window, and up the front firewall.. also, some applied inside the doors. I think he doors and the roof stops them from drumming…whatever it is, it worked really well.
~ Dave 1950 Chevrolet 3600 3/4-ton with 261 engine & T5 Transmission
My truck is night & day difference. Sounded like a metal hollow trash can , very loud. After adding , quiet, no loud hollow can sound. A real difference in my 1950 3100. 3 window. Todd
I used a rubber foam type stuff I got from Amazon. I don't know how it compares with other material, but I would use something that has a bit of weight to it. The bubble wrap stuff is probably too light to dampen any drumming noise from the sheet metal. Many industrial plants use heavy vinyl curtains to contain noise, especially low frequency sound. The additional weight will take out the "clang" when shutting a door. I've heard of guys putting a glob of roofing tar in the middle of a door panel to do that, but that's kind of stinky and messy. I used the stick-on rubber foam on the roof, inside the doors, and behind the gas tank, not wanting to change the original appearance of the rear of the cab. It's been many years since I've ridden in a stock AD truck, so can't really compare to what I have with mine with the sound deadening, but I'm satisfied with what I have.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I used Dynamat everywhere I could put it in my 53 including the doors. Then I did a YouTube video showing and hearing each door close one with and one without. This should be the link.