The 216 engine is supposed to have an oil deflection baffle inside the engine that covers part / partially the draft tube port. 1- where can I get a that baffle; 2- can it be installed by removing the oil pan?
Are the two screws on the side of the block missing? I just want you to make sure that the baffle is actually missing.Those 2 screws thread into the baffle, so if they are still there then it is very likely the baffle is still there. Yes, you will need to remove the oil pan to install the baffle.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
I originally used a fiber optic scope to look down the draft tube after removing the draft tube oil servicing cap and couldn’t see the baffle. I’ll look for the 2 screws on the side of the block, and then let you know. Thank you
Those two screws are on the side of the crankcase close to the fuel pump, directly under the road draft tube hole. PM me your snail mail address if yours is missing, and I'll send you one from a junk block I'm about to scrap out. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
I don’t see any evidence of screw. I just looked down the draft tube, draft tube oil serving removed, I can see the cam shaft lobe, hope the photo may help.
The plate is inside the block and the screws go in from the outside. Here's a couple of pics.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Here's a few more pics. If you can see the camshaft through the road draft tube hole, the baffle plate is missing. Jerry
Last edited by Hotrod Lincoln; 11/22/20248:57 PM.
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Thanks for the photos it’s a real help. I’ve found that the screw hole in picture 3 has been plugged with some sort of epoxy, so that hole could be reused. The screw illustrated in picture 4 I’ll have to re- inspect that area to see what I can find. The other photos illustrate that the screw retention screws go through the block, now I know how it’s possible to install the baffle by removing the crankcase. I presently do not see oil coming out of the illustrated baffle attachment holes. I still need the baffle, I can use other type attachment screws. Thanks very much for the photos.
I still need the baffle, I can use other type attachment screws.
Send me a private message with your mailing address. The block in those pictures is beyond repair. I'm scavenging the usable parts out of it and sending the block to the scrap heap. The baffle and the attaching screws are yours if you want them. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
They are simple sheet metal screws if my memory serves me right.
There might be two styles of baffles, one with flat tabs for the screws and one with upset holes for sheet metal screws. The one that I posted a picture of was definitely sheet metal screws with the tabs acting as nuts for the screws. If you zoom into the picture above you can see them. Jerry's engine looks like it used flat tabs and machine screws with lock washers and nuts.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
There's not a lot of room to get your hand up to the top screw, so sheet metal screws with J-nuts might be the way to go. You can also get j-nuts that take machine screws.
1951 3800 1-ton "Earning its keep from the get-go" In the DITY Gallery 1962 261 (w/cam, Fenton headers, 2 carbs, MSD ign.), SM420 & Brown-Lipe 6231A 3spd aux. trans, stock axles & brakes. Owned since 1971.
