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| | Forums66 Topics126,776 Posts1,039,259 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Oct 2021 Posts: 5,684 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2021 Posts: 5,684 | I'm in the process of wiring my instrument lights directly to the taillight terminal on the headlight switch.
How many bulbs are there on the fuel/amp/oil/temp gauge? I expected 4 or at least three like the speedo but it seems like there are only 2. Is this right?
I don't want to keep poking around under there and risk yanking wires out of place if I've located all the bulbs - 2 in this case.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
| | | | Joined: Oct 2021 Posts: 5,684 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2021 Posts: 5,684 | Speaking of bulbs, Rock Auto lists instrument panel bulbs as Phillips #51 and Phillips #55 for the ignition switch bulb.
PO has used GE 55 bulbs in all sockets.
The 55 is listed as 2.87 watts and .41 amps. The 51 is listed as 1.65 watts and .22 amps
Stock 6v system.
Will leaving the 55s in place overload the system? Do I need to order some 51s? Seems like the 55s will be brighter than the 51s but at what cost?
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
| | | | Joined: Jul 2021 Posts: 184 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2021 Posts: 184 | I think the bigger bulb on the ignition is there being only a small space to get light thru the crack . I put the bigger bulbs in the clusters to help with how people say that they need more light in the stock configuration, but I can dim it thru the switch if too bright. I don't know what the max current the switch can handle being you are putting all the cluster and tail thru the switch. I have a new 12V switch that is wired to put front and rear tail higher current bulbs on, so I imagine that it can handle just the rear and cluster. Stock is 2 on speedo, 2 on gauges, and one for the headlight dimmer....but that doesn't run thru the switch.
Last edited by Chip O; 11/21/2024 4:22 PM. Reason: spelling
Chip
'Rusto-Mod' '51 Chevy 3600 5 window | C4 Corvette front/rear suspension & drivetrain | everything else looks old and stock '92 GMC Sonoma GT #15 of 806 '91 GMC Sonoma GT Extended cab 1 of 1 Trucks, Trucks.....and more Trucks | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,828 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,828 | Otto, like Chip said, only two bulbs in the gauge cluster, and only 2 illumination bulbs in the speedo, plus the one for high beam indicator, which is on a different circuit. So the 4 illumination bulbs for the cluster and speedo, plus the one bulb for the ignition switch are all that should be on the harness that you're going to connect into the taillight terminal. I doubt that the difference in wattage between the 55's and the 51's will overload the switch capacity. Even with the 51's, the white paint inside the gauge cluster got toasted a bit over the 70 or so years they were in there. The 55's might darken the paint a bit more than the 51's if that's a concern.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | |
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