Your cable wire may have broken off at some time and is too short to get full movement. This can be fixed by pulling the choke knob out 6 inches and cutting the cable jacket back and inch or so or until you have enough cable sticking out for full engagement of the choke plate. You have a lot of cable jacket extending beyond the clamp. This is why I suspect that your cable wire is too short.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Point of reference : I removed the choke cable once again from the carb connection..... with no cable I was not able to move the control into a position where the choke closes. it appears to be blocked by control on the left side of the carburetor that stops the action of the choke, if I manually depress the control arm then the ckoke can be positioned to close.....I don't know how this change happeded, truck was starting fine and now this choke issue.... hard for me to explain.....
You're probably referring to the fast idle linkage between the choke and throttle shaft. It's there to hold the throttle open a bit when the choke if fully closed. The trick is to partly depress the accelerator before pulling the choke control so the ramp on that linkage doesn't hang up on the throttle stop screw.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Does the throttle linkage have a very stiff spring on it? Normally, the throttle return spring can be overcome by pulling on the choke knob. Is there a reason you don't want to hold the throttle open slightly while pulling on the choke cable? It shouldn't be necessary to do that, but it's pretty obvious there's something going on with the fast idle cam that's interfering with getting the choke applied. Even automatic choke carbs need a little throttle opening before starting to let things index properly. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
The throttle spring appears to be pretty stiff, I do pull the throttle open slightly, I did not try the choke yet while stepping on the gas before attempting to start, I will reconnect the throttle cable and see if that helps.
Partial success the fast idle linkage is definitely blocking the choke, I manually held the linkage out of the way , Pulled the choked, the engine started right up. Not sure how I can correct this ......sure am learning more each day.....
If the cable is bunged up inside the sleeve or bent, just buy two new cables from any one of the dozen vendors that sell reproduction ones. I did that 4 years ago and they look great and work smoothly
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Partial success the fast idle linkage is definitely blocking the choke, I manually held the linkage out of the way , Pulled the choked, the engine started right up. Not sure how I can correct this ......sure am learning more each day.....
If it worked good before check and make sure nothing has shifted to cause the problem
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