The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Rear axle bearing replacement

Thought I had this beat ,I was waiting for brake shoes before I put the axles back in .and I had the new bearings and seals installed on both sides. Well the brake shoes came in and are on the truck ,now let’s put this thing back on its feet .The drivers axle slid in and no issues on to the passenger side and the axle did not want to go in all the way thought I had some issue with the side gear but turned out to be the washer that goes behind the bearing was scraping .I did not think the washers were that close to the axle .The washers being a little bent up from taking them out so I thought take it back apart and check the washer. Well I took this apart about 3 times and sanded the inside and outside of the washer with it still rubbing .The bearing seemed to go in straight and I was giving this small taps with a medium hammer .looks even when the bearing was going in and the washer looks straight .Any thoughts ,bearings are the only part new to the assembly

It sounds like you need to get a little more aggressive than just sanding on the inside of the washer. I'd try a die grinder and take off more than just a few thousandths from the ID. I wouldn't worry about the OD of the washer. If you've flattened the washer at all it will reduce the ID a bit. When grinding on the washer, slip it over the axle to check that there's enough clearance before installing anything in the housing.

The washer fits over the axle standing on its end by about a 32/ all around the stop in the axle tube seems to have a double ledge and seems when all is pounded in it gets distorted ..since I got it all cleaned out I was thinking to try a origional bearing with the washer to see how it fits .had to take a break as it was frustrating as it all looks right but does not fit. I did not want to grind the washer until I checked but I could not find much on the issue I am having

If the washer is being flattened when installed, the OD ID will get smaller. That might be what's going on.

KEVINSKI, did you compare old to new bearing depth, the actual height of the bearings side by side? Check the height dimensions of the inner race and the outer race compared to the old bearing. I think KL meant to say ID in his post above.

The bearings look the same size .the washer was flattened a few times as every time you take it out it gets bent from the slide hammer .i noticed the inside of the axle tube the place were the washer stops is sloped we’re it was machined and maybe it pushes the washer out of centre when the bearing gets put in .going to give it another try today . I am lucky that I have another tube to look at so I took one end apart to compare and it looks the same.Thanks for the input it helps me keep at it.Kevin

I agree with Kevin. Flatten the washer again then take a micrometer and measure the width of the flat washer from the OD to the ID in several places and file down the high spots to make it more concentric.

I provided a diagram of my axle configuration so you can compare dimensions.

Press on, you got this!

Spent a few hours putting this axle bearing in and out a few times found that the washer no longer gets in the way after filing it a touch but still have to give the axle a good kick with my leg to get it to slide in .The axle housings don’t look to be machined very well from the factory and I think no matter what I do they go in a little off .I tried the old bearing and another washer but similar results .I found if the bearing is off a bit while tapping it in it will shave the housing a bit so rather than use my big socket I was tapping it in until it was most of the way in that way I could see how straight it was going in .Once in It looks okay other than it was difficult to put the axle in ,also tried another axle but same result .Any reason the bearing would be hard to get the axle in when installed but slide on off of the housing .

The bearing is going to be compressed just a bit when driven into the axle housing (and the axle housing is going to expand just a bit as well.) That might be enough to decrease the effective diameter of the rollers where they slide on the axle, making it hard to slide the axle in. It's also possible that the axle housing is bent a bit (if the truck had ever been overloaded) causing the axle to bind when it goes in.

I had a '72 K10 that the previous owner had overloaded with a humongous slide-in camper and bent the axle housing. It had a positraction differential and wound up breaking the "petals" off the clutch disks and throwing them into the pinion bearings. That entire axle was trashed.

I will go with option 1 ,There is no wear on the bearing that came out of the tube so I am hoping that all it is is the way the housing stop is we’re the bearing bottoms out all the measurements appear to be the same once the axle is in it rolls fairly smooth .Going to take another look tomorrow and look at the older axle tube I have (had huck brakes).

Have you tried to install the axle with just the bearing in place without the big washer to see if it is the washer causing the problem?

I put the axle bearing in several times with and without the axle tried the old bearing as well ,everything fit well before you put the bearing in the tube .I think Kevin had it correct that the compression of the bearing and possibly the back stop we’re the bearing and washer sit are out a bit but once it is all installed the bearing turns smooth like the drivers side so it is all back together will have to monitor that side bearing once I get the truck rolling .

Great to hear to you sorted it out. Good job!

Thanks ,On to the next either passenger side floor,cowl or maybe waterpump adapter .🤹‍♂️