I'm working on installing a mid 1960's Saginaw OD version transmission into my 1950 GMC. The reverse light switch does work, but the pigtail does not. Does anyone know of a source for this pigtail?
Thanks!
1950 GMC 100 Panel Truck, 1958 270, 3-spd Saginaw with BW OD, 3.73 12 Bolt Differential from a 1966 C10, Front Disc Brakes Hill Holder Bought it in pieces 9-1976, driving since 6-1978 Follow in the DITY
I was not able to find that pigtail for my truck, so I ended up putting a pair of female spade connectors on the end and covering them right to the tips with heat shrink to seal them.
Robert: You could fit a scrap piece of plastic between the two female spade connectors that Fibonachu is recommending to keep the spacing of the connectors before shrinking the heat shrink.
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
Thank you both for your ideas. I will do both! I've not yet tried heat tape, so I can learn something new.
1950 GMC 100 Panel Truck, 1958 270, 3-spd Saginaw with BW OD, 3.73 12 Bolt Differential from a 1966 C10, Front Disc Brakes Hill Holder Bought it in pieces 9-1976, driving since 6-1978 Follow in the DITY
I've only tried heat shrink TAPE once and I wasn't happy with the results. I use tubing.
The only advantage I can think of for the tape is to put it over wiring that already has terminals, plugs, or other connections on both ends. I will admit that I have more than once set up wiring on both automotive and computer gear with plugs on both ends that were too large for the heat shrink tubing to slip over, only to find the piece of heat shrink tubing sitting on my workbench. Oh well, take one end off, slip the tubing over the wire, reinstall the end and then shrink the tubing.
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
Is the rubber cap really necessary? There are fully insulated spade connectors, both male and female, available at any good auto parts store. Maybe use a piece of shrink tube about an inch long just behind the connectors to keep the wires together. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Can you provide a pic of the end of the pigtail or switch terminals? Are the two terminals at a 90 degree angle from each other?
Craig
My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear My truck ....... Respect The Rust If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
Thank you all for your advice. I agree with everyone who points out that I need only 2 spade connectors, but I look also to keep road splash out of the switch. Here is a photo of the pigtail. It measures 21/32 on the inside. If shrink tube will fit over the 21/32 switch OD and also shrink to the diameter of 2 wires, then that seems like what I should do.
1950 GMC 100 Panel Truck, 1958 270, 3-spd Saginaw with BW OD, 3.73 12 Bolt Differential from a 1966 C10, Front Disc Brakes Hill Holder Bought it in pieces 9-1976, driving since 6-1978 Follow in the DITY
I've have a back up switch connected to my SM420 for a few years now. Have 2 separate female spade terminals connected which has never encountered very much if any, road grime. Think you'd be just fine with your plan of attack.
Craig
My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear My truck ....... Respect The Rust If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
Fixed! After consultation with Bill Hanlon I found that I had continuity from the plug tabs to the ends of the pigtail. I then sprayed inside the plug with contact cleaner and reinstalled it. It works now. The near 60 year plastic insulation is not interested in bending, so I believe I will try the heat tubes on each of those wire.
Thank you, Bill and all others who offered advice!
1950 GMC 100 Panel Truck, 1958 270, 3-spd Saginaw with BW OD, 3.73 12 Bolt Differential from a 1966 C10, Front Disc Brakes Hill Holder Bought it in pieces 9-1976, driving since 6-1978 Follow in the DITY
Glad you got it working Robert. Hope you picked up your GrandSon from day care on time. You don't want to get on those peoples' fecal roster.
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
A piece of heater hose and a tube of high temp RTV sealer will make a totally waterproof connector. Just slip a 1" long piece of hose over the connectors and fil it with RTV. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
