The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Interiors Speedometer Gauge Removal

Did Chevrolet hire all those out of work midgets from The Wizard of Oz to install the instrument panels on AD trucks? It's ridiculous!

I cannot get the two nuts on the driver side off the back of the gauge. I can't even seem to get a wrench or socket on them. I can barely get my head in there to even see them.

I'm not fat (170) and I'm fairly flexible. I can't seem to get into a position to get a tool on those two nuts. The other two were no trouble.

I'd rather not drop the steering column or open up any other can of worms to get this gauge out. Anything I haven't thought of?

Also when it's time to go back in with a replacement, would push nuts work? I dread having to figure out how to get nuts back on those two studs.

You’ve gotta be conversant in Braille to work under the dash.

Try a 1/4 inch drive nut driver handle and socket. I’ve also got a flexible extension that comes in handy at times.

Have you tried a mirror and a good LED strip light with built-in magnets?

Take the seat out and lay down a plank in it's place. You can lie on the plank while working under the dash.

Yes, I've tried the Braille method and use that all the time on stuff you would think would be harder than this. I can't even get my hands on the nuts - at least not the bottom one.

I've worked under plenty of way more crowded dashes than this one but the placement of those two nuts is just out of reach. Did try a 1/4 drive swivel but couldn't get the socket on the nut.

I may remove the seat. I was laying on the floor before.

Unlike the overheating issue, this looks like a problem even Christine, ne'e Ol' Roy won't be able to fix.

I just had mine out to adjust the speedometer. The odometer was good, but the speedometer was 4mph fast. They are adjustable to about 5mph either way. I agree it is much more difficult to get out than the gauge cluster. I used my SK 1/4-inch drive rachet and 5/16 socket. I removed the ignition switch and loosened the choke and throttle cables. They had to move out of the way to get past the wiper drive and steering collum. I laid in the passenger door and slid myself in front of my emergency brake and shift tower of the 4 speed trany. By the way my speedometer is right on the money now, with my first attempt at the adjustment. FYI, the 47 has a hand brake.

I haven’t had much luck with socket u-joints. They are usually too floppy to get on the nut. But the springy extension I have usually works.

You can try the 1/4 dial ratchet I found a set at harbour freight years ago and they come in handy for tight areas

I just took out both gauges, ignition switch and the headlight switch as one unit from a '52. I did it all sitting behind the wheel. No crawling under the dash.
1) remove the speaker grill.
2) remove the lightswitch leaving the wires on and push it forward and let it hang there.
3) remove the choke cable.
4) now you can get to all of the nuts on the speedometer.
5) remove the speedometer and push it forward let it hang there.
6) now you can get to all of the nuts on the gauge cluster. Push it back and let it hang there.
7) remove the ignition switch. Push it back and let it hang there.
8) fish the ignition switch down to where you can remove any accessory wires like for the heater.
9) remove the headlight switch, gauge cluster, speedometer, and ignition switch with the wiring harness still attached to everything as a unit.

You will now have easy access to remove the individual wires from each component while sitting in the seat.
I am all but certain that on the assembly line, all of these components were wired to the harness on a bench before the entirety was assembled in the truck in the reverse order which I have described. They did not crawl under the dash is my bet.
What I have described may seem tedious, but I am old and my crawling under dash days are well behind me.
The process was not as difficult or time consuming as it sounds in written form.

Ya, I figured I could remove everything and gain access but since I'm not restoring it and all the other stuff works, and I intend to drive it while repairing the speedo, I'd really like to leave all that stuff alone and keep the lid on the worm can. Maybe I'll have to do it but I'll still try to remove just the speedo.

I put mine in without the steering column, ignition, defrost vents in the way, and it still was a PITA.
Heaven forbid something isn't working after initial startup.
I'll have to hide the gasoline and matches.

Ya, I've wished for a couple sticks of dynamite to drop in gas tanks of certain vehicles from time to time.

Removing the clutch and brake pedals might give you enough room to get your head in far enough to see what you need to get at.

Otto, did you remove the speaker grill and the choke cable? The speedometer nuts are not that hard to get to while sitting on the seat if you do. You just need to pretend that you are blind. Feel for the nut with one finger and guide the but driver to that that finger with your other hand. Use The Force Luke. There is no trying, just doing.

Easiest method I've come up with is stand at the open drivers door and pretend I'm doing a bicep curl. Just reach up under there and do my business.

Removed the speaker grill. It looks like I'll now be able to access the two driver side nuts.

Unfortunately the previously mentioned can of worms has now been opened. The two bottom bolts on the grill broke loose. I was able to get the nut off the right side but the stud/bolt is spinning in the stainless trim. The left side wouldn't come off and the stud is spinning. The trim piece is dangling from the dash.

Man! That was brutal!

Thanks for the suggestion about the radio grill. That was the ticket. Gave access for one hand to help position and hold a ratchet.

Now I've got the stainless trim to deal with. IU think I'll have to hacksaw that one screw stud off. Were they supposed to be spotwelded in place or something? I'll probably have to jb weld them or something.

Another question:

One catalog with new speedos shows 47-49 0-80 mph and 50-53 with 0-90mph.

My original speedo with a date of Sep 8, 1950 stamped on the back is a 0-80mph.

Should I order the 47-49 one? Would the 0-90 (listed as 50-53) function properly?

Maybe I should start a new thread for the rest of my questions but I'll try here.

Has anyone purchased a repro speedo? If so, from what supplier? Should I get the whole assembly or try touse my bezel and glass?

My one piece of advice is to make sure everything that is being reinstalled is fully in working order; ask me how I know! I Recently went through all this to replace a bad gas gauge. I too wanted to hire a midget to do the work, but there was not one around. I had to get myself in the right frame of mind and set aside a few days that were free from commitments to do the teardown and install. Take your time. A few cuss words along the way may help the situation. I thought I fully seated all the light sockets for the gauges; I discovered that a couple were pulled out somehow during the reinstall. The issue for me is minor in that I do not drive my truck at night. However, I want EVERYTHING to work as it should. Getting to them now is basically impossible unless I go through the gymnastics event all over again...not gonna do it!

My project parts truck speedo was pretty much junk. The original 50 cab was a mess, so I got a stripped 51 cab with title. The 0-80 gauge face was bleached and the guts were corroded. The glass, chrome trim and body was salvageable. I ordered 0-90 face and guts from Classic Parts, I think. So many vendors that carry a variety but I imaging most are the exact same part from the same manufacturer. They are calbrated to work as a pair. If your face looks savable, just order 0-80 guts, but this would be the time to replace it and the needle. Make sure you don't lose the two tiny face screws. They are a weird thread. I re-set the new odometer to the original old mileage. I know you are NOT supposed to do that, But for a 70+ year old vehicle, I don't think it matters much. I'm not making a brand new truck. The needle is just pressed in, but now I wish I put a bit of epoxy on it before hand. I don't want to experience what you are going thru, with bouncy needles and all.

Looks pretty nice Chip. I plan to restore an extra speedo during this winter.

Otto,
My '50 originally came with a crunchied 0-80 speedo. When my '53 was crushed by our front oak tree, I removed the 0-90 speedo from it and installed it into the '50. Has worked perfectly for the past 34 years.

I would stick with the 0-80 as that is what was installed. They are more than likely calibrated a bit different.

After mixing and matching used speedo parts for years, I got too old and stiff for another round of speedo removal so I bought an after market one for one last go at it. It has worked well for a decade or so. To remove the speedo I used the 52 Carl method and pulled the glove box and then the speaker grill. Then to get the choke cable loose, I had a 9/16 combination wrench I cut in two and used the open end part to nibble away at the cable-retaining nut. I made the tool when working under the dash but with the grill out you may not need that. Once the choke cable is out of the way I used my 1/4" drive ratchet to remove the speedo retaining nuts. Remove the lights and the drive cable and you're home free. A little penetrating oil on the various nuts makes the job easier.

Previously, I had checked the speedo accuracy on the mix/match speedos with a short length of flexible cable hooked up to my drill press. You have to calculate what your drill press RPM is against 1,000 revs per mile, which is 60 MPH. One of my drill press speeds was equivalent to 37 MPH. I learned this trick from working on Smiths magnetic motorcycle speedos. I didn't do this on the new one. My bad. Now with the 4.57 gear ratio instead of the 5.13 the speedo is accurate but the odometer is off. Sigh. Having changed gear ratios, tire size and with the brownie transmission it gets complicated. So eventually, if I live that long, I'll calculate the revs per mile on the brownie's speedo drive, get a ratio adapter, a looong cable, pull the speedo and re calibrate it. Meanwhile I've learned to drive by the tach.

Yes. I bought a rebuilt 0-80 unit from Jim Carter.

Here it is. Nicely done. Jim Carter doesn't do the work. He just facilitates the rebuild for another company.

Very nice and shiny. A new chrome ring, or your original? The housing looks like it's been painted?
I'd maybe scrape it to bare metal on the light holes and mounting tabs to assure good grounds before the install.

It's a rebuilt unit they had on the shelf. They'll rebuild your original if you want that specific unit back. They won't send one to you until they receive your core.

Already installed and working.

Jim Carter typically has rebuilt speedos in stock. I bought one when I walked in, although I think I may have pre-ordered on my way there from Alaska and had them hold the order for pickup.

Yes. He said that depending on the year and style, they usually have at least one on the shelf. They'll send those out to you only after receiving your rebuildable core.

If you want your original back, they'll rebuild it for you. It's a three week lead time on that.

Yes, the company rebuilding them rechromes the bezel like the original. Reproduction ones are stainless steel.

I forgot to ask if there was anything I needed to do with the cable before installation. Should I pull the cable out of the sheath and grease it with lithium grease?

The cable is new a couple years ago with vinyl sleeve.

Did you grease it a couple of years ago when new?
But most don't think that 'too much grease is bad'....in most circumstances, unless the floor of the shop already has a grease spot from too much.

I know I am late to the party but I read this somewhere on hear many years ago and I did it with my dash gauges. Go to the hardware store before you reassemble and get brass knurled nuts. This makes the removal in the future a lot easier. Don't ask me how I know.

I used knurled nuts for the installation. Worked perfectly. Hopefully I won't have to take it out again but it sure made installation a lot easier. I even bought knurled nuts to put the speaker grill back on.

Sorry I didn't see this post until now.

I did remove the cable and lightly greased it with white lithium grease when I installed it back in 2022. Since it's been working now for about 300 miles, I think I'll leave it alone unless somebody says I need to pull it out and add more/different lubricant.