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Joined: Mar 2016
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I just wired my rear lights and turn signals, tail lights, stop lights all work. Since turn signals share the same wire with stop lights to the rear. When stop lights are on the turn signal is not. So unlike a modern car when stopped and turning only brake light is on until I take foot off brake. Is this accurate operation for 1955 chevy truck 2nd series? Also did that truck come with flashers / hazards? I can’t locate anything in the wiring diagram or manuals. Thank you in advance for any guidance. Mark

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The way turn signals and brake lights work is the signal side is turned off and on by the flasher while the other side stays on solid. The wires for both sides run through the turn signal switch.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
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Originally Posted by Mark L
I just wired my rear lights and turn signals, tail lights, stop lights all work.
Congratulations

Originally Posted by Mark L
Since turn signals share the same wire with stop lights to the rear. When stop lights are on the turn signal is not.
Actually, it is "when the turn signal is on the brake light for that side is disabled".

Originally Posted by Mark L
So unlike a modern car when stopped and turning only brake light is on until I take foot off brake. Is this accurate operation for 1955 chevy truck 2nd series?
Modern cars have a separate rear bulb for brakes and turn signal. Your Chevy doesn't.

Originally Posted by Mark L
Also did that truck come with flashers / hazards?
No flashers. And the turn signals were an option.

Originally Posted by Mark L
I can’t locate anything in the wiring diagram or manuals. Mark
I'm sure someone can come up with a Chevy specific wiring diagram. The GMC manual on line has a really bad copy of the wiring diagrams.


'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12
'52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
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Thank you. This is helpful. I haven’t installed the flasher which is my problem. I rewired the whole truck. Much appreciated!

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Thanks bill this is super helpful. I have a wiring diagram and think I has discovered the problem. Flasher issue I suspect.

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My problem is a bit different. I bought the bell style turn signal switch. Left and right signals work normally and so does tail lights. I cut the original white wire going to the brake light switch and spliced in the signal switch white wire per a diagram I saw here for the bell style. I had no brake lights after that. Another source I found here says to splice in the tail light wire to the brake light switch. I have brake lights, but there is a malfunction.
Splicing in left tail light wire with brake lights on and left turn signal on will give no flash (solid on only) lights. The right turn signal with brake lights works as it should. This problem is vice versa if I splice in the right tail light wire. And sure enough, if I splice in both left and right, both tail lights will flash at the same time.
I do realize that a new part can be defective, but I do not want to guess and buy a new expensive turn signal switch, let alone the hassle of pulling the steering wheel and all the wires and reconnecting if it ends up not being the solution. Has anyone else had a similar malfunction?


54 Chevy 3100 Deluxe 3 speed on column. Keeping original as possible but changed to 12 volt system.
JB Weld..."I put that stuff on everything"
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Joe: Diagram below shows how the "bell style" turn signal switch was wired in my '57 GMC. I believe that Chevys were wired the same, including earlier models, as long as they shared filaments in the rear lamps for brake and turn indicators. The white wire is the same as your white wire coming from the brake switch. Ignore other colors on my drawing unless they happen to agree with yours.

The top part of the drawing shows the switch in the "off" position. The center part of the drawing shows the switch in the right turn position and the bottom part of the drawing shows the switch in the left turn position. The yellow pieces represent sliding contacts inside the turn signal switch and the black circles are fixed contacts with wires attached.

Hope this helps you to understand how the switch works and solve your problem.
Attachments
TSwitch.JPG (44.74 KB, 108 downloads)


'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12
'52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 147
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Bill: Your diagram is clear in indicating the function and you wire colors match mine. I can not visually see the innards of my switch but I am suspect my white wire is not functioning properly. What it looks like, being the white wire connected to the brake switch, is the new power to the brake lights via through the signal switch. My brake lights do not come on with that configuration but I do get full turn signal function when pushing the brake pedal. I can get one tail light flashing with brakes on if I connect one side tail light wire directly into the brake switch. In other words, one tail light/brake light works properly and the other stays on solid with no flash if that side turn signal is activated with brakes on. For now , I'll wire to allow the left turn signal to function. I think signaling for left turns are more important than right turns.


54 Chevy 3100 Deluxe 3 speed on column. Keeping original as possible but changed to 12 volt system.
JB Weld..."I put that stuff on everything"
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 147
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Just checked, but I am more believing that my white wire in signal switch has a bad connection since connecting or disconnection at brake switch does nothing, but connecting one tail light brake wire to brake switch will activate full function of the other side only. I cringe to have to pull the steering wheel and switch and all connections, but it might be my only option. Thanks again for the input.


54 Chevy 3100 Deluxe 3 speed on column. Keeping original as possible but changed to 12 volt system.
JB Weld..."I put that stuff on everything"
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 1,987
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Joe: The switch and its wiring should look like the first picture below. (The white wire is hidden behind the yellow.) If so, you can verify proper wiring using a paper clip.

Disconnect all 6 wires noting which one plugs in where.

Use a paper clip to connect the FEMALE terminal that the WHITE wire plugs into to the FEMALE terminal that the PINK terminal plugs into.
Press the brake pedal.
The left rear turn/brake lamp SHOULD light. If not, fix the wiring before continuing.
Remove the paper clip.

Use a paper clip to connect the FEMALE terminal that the WHITE wire plugs into to the FEMALE terminal that the VIOLET terminal plugs into.
Press the brake pedal.
The right rear turn/brake lamp SHOULD light. If not, fix the wiring before continuing.
Remove the paper clip.

Use a paper clip to connect the FEMALE terminal that the WHITE wire plugs into to the FEMALE terminal that the LIGHT BLUE terminal plugs into.
Press the brake pedal.
The left front turn lamp SHOULD light. If not, fix the wiring before continuing.
Remove the paper clip.

Use a paper clip to connect the FEMALE terminal that the WHITE wire plugs into to the FEMALE terminal that the DARK BLUE terminal plugs into.
Press the brake pedal.
The right front turn lamp SHOULD light. If not, fix the wiring before continuing.
Remove the paper clip.

Use a paper clip to connect the FEMALE terminal that the YELLOW wire plugs into to the FEMALE terminal that the DARK BLUE terminal plugs into.
Turn on the ignition switch.
The right front turn lamp SHOULD light. It may flash or just come on solid, depending on your flasher. If not, fix the wiring before continuing.
Remove the paper clip.

Once all above are as "SHOULD" the wiring out to the lights is correct. Fix any that are not as the SHOULD be before continuing.

Now let's check the switch before installing it.

Turn off the key.
Plug all 6 wires of the switch into the harness with the switch just laying on the floorboard.
Slide the switch into the middle position.
Press the brake pedal.
Brake lights on rear both sides SHOULD light.

Turn on the key.
Slide the switch to the counter clockwise position.
One side (I think the passenger's side, but I don't have a switch to look at right now) SHOULD be flashing BOTH front and rear.
Slide the switch to the clockwise position.
The other side SHOULD be flashing BOTH front and rear.
Attachments
Clipboard01.jpg (23.35 KB, 77 downloads)

Last edited by Bill Hanlon; 03/31/2025 11:21 PM.

'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12
'52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 147
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Thanks for the detailed instructions. I actually have that switch you show. It was the first one I bought before I realized I could get the "bell" switch. I will see how things go.


54 Chevy 3100 Deluxe 3 speed on column. Keeping original as possible but changed to 12 volt system.
JB Weld..."I put that stuff on everything"
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 1,987
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Bell switch??


'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12
'52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 147
J
'Bolter
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Posts: 147
Some used that term here for the one that is kinda shaped as a bell and that looks OEM. It slips right on the column.


54 Chevy 3100 Deluxe 3 speed on column. Keeping original as possible but changed to 12 volt system.
JB Weld..."I put that stuff on everything"
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 1,987
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I think the switch that I posted here is the switch that belongs in the "bell". Are you saying you purchased this switch and later purchased a complete "bell" with the switch and cancel mechanism already mounted in the bell?


'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12
'52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.

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