I have the wiper motor out and curious how the 1/4 inch hose hooks up. I have a bolt on the fuel pump that vacuums. Or the vacuum at the manifold. Which is best? Or both? If I knew the motor worked, I could see about reinstalling this original pump with 2ports. maybe a simple diagram how my motor hooks up? Thanks!!
Excellent progress. That a bunch of rust resolution!
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
My '58 has similar rust issues on the hood. I've been trying to work out how to repair it. Like you I really want to keep the original sheet metal.
~ Craig 1958 Viking 4400 "The Book of Thor" Read the story in the DITY 1960 Chevrolet C10 "A Family Heirloom" Follow the story in the DITY Gallery '59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)
Come Bleed or Blister, something has got to give!!! | Living life in the SLOW lane
I had let this hood sit since I knew zero about welding. Then with a little confidence ,I just dove in. I had some metal here from a new cab floor that had a section with a weld nut. Took some more pieces for the front side and the inner front support. The hood is solid other than that. No dents. It was worth it. These 2 were the worst.
I have my license plate frame off and it needs a couple things. The glass lens I need if anybody knows of one and repairing 2/3 of the housing. Its still strong surprisingly . Wonder if anyone has an idea how to go about repairing the housing.
Back of roof primered Rest of the roof is pretty good. Some small creases. This turned out good. But you get to trust your feel over any dents. See anything odd...its a farm fly.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Thanks Phil. My first attempts at any body work have been recently. 2/3 rds the time I have to go back and fix something. If I don`t do it, it won`t get done. Paint is the truth teller.
Pics of the latest. I raised the body (no cab) but the front part under the cab supports about 7/8 on one side 3/4 on the other. The fenders were out of adjustment and that corrected the fenders lining up with the doors proper. Doors lined up to the body. hood and all great. I drilled and mounted the hood emblem and side spears. LOOKING FOR A LH SPEAR APACHE 3100 no paint preferred just mirrored old chrome.
Todays progress was fitting the bumper mounts different to fit the bumper. Hopeful the rear is not the same. I think it has more to do with the bumper itself though. Same with the front on the 59.
Thanks! Some good news, the salvaged light switch, fuse block and high beam switch all work! Put in a new brake light switch. Test that soon. Blinkers will be another thing. I`d like to see how thats run from under the dash up the steering column. A harness available?
Todays interior pics as it will sit over the winter. Pillar repair(s). New floor. Everything from under the seat forward is all new. Horn will wait till next year. You see the interior is close, needs some more attention. I have driven it on uneven and up and down hills for quite awhile now and no shifts at any repairs I did. Drives good. Feels like little play in the steering. Next year , some under dash welding that needs done there where I married the new pillar. This year I will level the body as the left side is low about 3/4 inch. When I took the body off, it had a fair number of those thick square body shims. I kept them but still ordered new hard rubber ones that I might mix with the old. $30 for the seats. Not sure what year or model but they fit well.Comfy too. Engine as of today with some things different. Instead of the copper tubing for the VAC /wiper, I had a pre bent SS tubing from a pickup tube and put the RAD support to firewall rod in. Other broke. Feel good about what all I got done this year after the wife left, 3 nights in the ICU staying alive and busting my behind working on this thing.
You have done very well! Lots of effort and thought put into your work. And all this while working on 2 trucks! Are you by chance related to the Energizer Bunny???
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Yeah you are right but more the "cannot let the "beach" win." So I press on without ....much fail. You know..spite. No one should have to deal with what I had to. This truck represents my fight. Perserverance to make it happen, life or limb. Therapeutic and satisfying. Keeping it simple. Original for a reason.
You could buy the stomp starter boot, cut it flush and glue something on the top to make it flat. or maybe THIS will fit. Or just weld or screw a metal plate over it. If it'll be covered by a floor mat, nobody would know.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
That would work, a metal plate. I saw some oval and depressed to fit. But not sure. I got the truck on skates and moved it in the corner of the barn and installed the kick panels. Just a few more holes to consider to keep the mice out.
If you’re not using the hole, you could just cut a plate a little larger than the oval hole, and pop rivet it in place. You could use a little RTV between the plate and floor to seal it.
Last edited by Phak1; 10/20/202410:39 PM. Reason: Typo
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
If you’re not using the hole, you could just cut a plate a little larger than the oval hole, and pop rivet it in place. You could use a little RTV between the plate and floor to seal it.
Even better. I still have the stomp starter. It may work. IDK. But I`ll put it on the shelf. That way someone ,one day could reverse it back.