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'Bolter
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I'm about ready for tires on my 53 half ton project. I have original stock wheels. I'm going with 215/85R-16 tires. Will my old rims be OK without tubes? I can see from some of my old rims here that they have been used with tubeless tires in the past. What do you guys recommend? tubes or tubeless??


Mike Burns
1940 Chev 1/2 ton
1953 Chev 1/2 ton
1950 Studebaker Starlight Coupe
1947 Indian Chief
1943 Indian 741
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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I put tubes in my tires, which was likely a bad idea. I just had to air up all 4, some of which were pretty low. Of course I bought tubes from the cheapest source (likely offshore manufacture.) As long as your rims are in decent shape, I'd go tubeless. If I have issues with mine holding air, I'm planning on ripping the tubes out and going tubeless.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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'Bolter
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Thanks, I mainly just wanted to make sure that the old rims typically will hold air OK. I guess I'll give it a try then.


Mike Burns
1940 Chev 1/2 ton
1953 Chev 1/2 ton
1950 Studebaker Starlight Coupe
1947 Indian Chief
1943 Indian 741
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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Be sure the bead seating area is free from rust pitting. Also check the stem hole for rust that would prevent the stem from sealing.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
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'Bolter
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If you're worried about the bead sealing or its pitted or whatever, buy a can of this stuff. It's works great! (extra points if you can name the location of the can)
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IMG_20240419_181755.jpg (41.89 KB, 201 downloads)


1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
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Renaissance Man
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I have a total of 8 original rims with the very same tires you plan on going with on two trucks.
As Kevin mentioned, the bead seating area needs to be smooth and not pitted, and you need a sound valve stem hole. If you don't have a sound valve stem hole, you can drill a new one and weld up the old one.
Another problem area is were the 2 halves of the rim is riveted together.
I sand blasted all of mine and epoxy primed them, and I strongly recommend that. Once you they are primed, I used 2 part epoxy on the rivets on the inside of the rim for insurance. My tires have not needed air for many years.

Last edited by 52Carl; 09/26/2024 1:56 AM.

1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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'Bolter
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GMC began offering tubeless in the mid 1950's. My father was selling tires at that time, and it was common for people to install a tube for "safety" reasons. Usually they had trouble with the tubes folding or being pinched which caused a flat. I have owned 18 wheelers for 60 years ago. The first thing I did when I bought a used truck in 1964 was switch to tubeless tires. Salvage yards were practically giving the wheels away because no one wanted them. I ran tubeless bias until tubeless radials came out. And I have never had the urge to use a tube unless I just couldn't get a one piece wheel. I even have tubeless tires on 50 and 60 year old farm tractors. If the wheel is pitted, it will rub a hole in the tube. Same goes for the hole for the stem. If your wheels are in good shape, I wouldn't even think about tubes. And I think they are all made in China now anyway.

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I've been running tubeless tires on my truck for quite some time now. Never have had a leaky tire issue.

Otto, how about on top of driver's front fender?


Craig

My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear
My truck ....... Respect The Rust
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Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Get the inner part of the wheel bead blasted down to bare metal and paint them with a thick coat of a 2-part epoxy type polyurethane paint like IMRON. Unless the rivets are loose, the paint should seal up any leaks there might be due to an imperfect fit of the rivets.
Jerry


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Coker and Diamond Back require tubes on 16" and over


1946 Chevy 1/2-Ton
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'Bolter
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Originally Posted by 46 Texaco
Coker and Diamond Back require tubes on 16" and over

I have looked a bit and didn’t find that, is there a source doc for that for the Diamondbacks?

Interested as I have 16” diamondbacks….(with tubes as they had trouble airing them up tubeless)

Chuck

Last edited by Gdads51; 10/22/2024 4:34 PM. Reason: fix quote to display correctly

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'Bolter
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All Diamondback tires are modern radials. They DO NOT require tubes.

I have 16" Diamondback tires on my Packard and they have no tubes. Original 4" rims, too.

Call the company and ask them. Maybe if you have worn out rims that leak or won't allow the tire bead to seat properly then maybe a tube is required.


1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
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'Bolter
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Originally Posted by cmayna
Otto, how about on top of driver's front fender?

We have a winner!


1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)

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