Hoping I can get some ideas re: repairing my driver side door handle ('49 3600). The splines are stripped smooth, so the handle wobbles. I'd drilled a hole in the latch shaft to accept the handle's set screw - so it doesn't fall off but handle is still 'loose'. i know reproductions are available but I'd prefer to stay with the original handle if at all possible. Any ideas on how to re-spline the handle - with some sort of insert, etc. would be greatly appreciated!
Last edited by Phak1; 08/23/202412:11 PM. Reason: Removed [img] links
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Thanks Otto I did tap the shaft for the set screw but the handle splines are so worn it still wobbles. I haven't 100% ruled out a JB Weld solution, but I do want the handle to remain removable.
To my knowledge, nor have I seen rebuild kits for either the door remote operator or new splines for the handle.
I replaced my remote operators with aftermarket ones and they work great. There hidden behind the door panel so nobody would know the difference. Your best bet for the handle is to replace it with an old original. They come up on eBay quite often or place an ad here in the “Truck Parts Wanted” forum. I'm sure you’ll get some results.
Here is a link to the remote door latch operators. Left Right
Last edited by Phak1; 08/23/202412:41 PM.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Thanks Phak1. I think the splines on the remote operator may still be usable, but will consider replacing if necessary with aftermarket, as tthey're pretty affordable. I did see a set of handles claimed to be NOS on Ebay but they were pretty pricey. I will go ahead and post for a handle in the "Truck Parts Wanted" forum as you suggest... and continue the hunt on Ebay as well. Thanks again!
You don’t necessarily need NOS. You can find used original in good serviceable condition, fairly reasonable cost wise.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
~ Peggy M 1949 Chevrolet 3804 "Charlie" - The Stovebolt Flagship In the Gallery || In the Gallery Forum "I didn't see this one coming. I don't see much of anything coming. :-O"
Coat the shaft with beeswax as a "release compound" before you use the JB Weld, or use a couple of layers of Saran Wrap over the shaft before molding the JB over the splines. It's an old gunsmithing trick we use when glass-bedding a rifle action. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Butchers wax or plain old wax shoe polish will work as well. Don’t gob it in, as you’ll want to make an impression of the splines.
Last edited by Phak1; 08/23/20246:58 PM. Reason: Grammar
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
I usually use the same paraffin sealing wax that I mix into my bullet casting lube. Melt it, and apply a layer or two with a small brush. A tinner's acid brush works well for jobs like that. It gives a thin, durable layer that won't get displaced by whatever casting medium you use. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Thanks Otto I did tap the shaft for the set screw but the handle splines are so worn it still wobbles. I haven't 100% ruled out a JB Weld solution, but I do want the handle to remain removable.
What about building up the shaft with epoxy so it doesn't wobble? Turn it down with sandpaper so it's a tight press on fit and lock it in with a tight set screw.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Here is what I have run into with aftermarket door handles and knobs. They are not made correctly for original shafts where the set screws are supposed to go. The issue is the depth where the splines end. There is a recess in the shaft for the set screws to go-to prevent the handle from falling off. This recess in new handles in too deep preventing the set screws to engage it. Another issue is that the set screw is not tapered to a point like the originals and does come with a lock screw to keep it from backing out. I don't believe that the threads are the same as originals either, preventing you from using the original screw and the lock screw.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission