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Trailers are tools right? Ok here is that used trailer I was looking at about a Year ago;

[img]http://www.favorites.com/~jolly/whatever/Trailer_GooseCar.JPG[/img]

I don't recall what size the deck was, but it was rated for 14,000 lbs. and the guy used it to haul a backhoe. Quetions is would a low deck like be better, of a higher deck like this one;

[img]http://stovebolt.com/truck/techtips/images/ontrlr.jpg[/img]

I would like to go the goose neck way but may have to buy a pull-behind to get my by tell I can get more funding. Also if I get a pull behind, I could keep it when I get a goose neck to do small jobs, like haul four wheelers.

My 65 and 94 GMCs are both rated for 10,000 lbs, not sure on what the cgwv is but it would have to be a bit higher.

[ 01-18-2002: Message edited by: Jolly Man ]

Jolly,
I'm flattered! The second photo is my very own beloved DODGEZILLA! At anyrate, the trailer with Gary Radford's '59 Apache 3200 on it had a 20' deck, plus another 6'(as I recall) deck over the gooseneck. I forget what the GVW of the trailer was -- I think it was about 20k lbs, though. That trailer's normal job was hauling about 700 bales of hay twice a week from the Hillsboro, Ohio, area to Lexington, KY. (About 14 tons -- overloaded? Probably -- didn't seem to bother either one much. Besides, I had to make a living somehow after I got out of the Marine Corps). Neither Dodgezilla or the trailer had any problems with that. In fact, on the long hill coming south out of Maysville, KY, I routinely gave the other similarly loaded truck ('97 Chevy 1-ton w/6.2 diesel) a 1/2-mile head start and I still blew by them about halfway up -- that pig 6.2 was putting out more smoke than one of your trains! But I digress...

The trailer came from a manufacturer near Louisville and had ramps that slid into the back of the trailer under the deck. Deck over trailers like this are higher than that first trailer, but they sure are a lot more versatile. Just remember you'll have a higher center of gravity. I don't have a problem with wood-decked trailers. As long as you inspect them regularly they won't fail unexpectedly. Plus, if you need to, you can always nail or screw chocks or whatever into them if you need to. I've used some aluminum-decked trailers that "sing" to you at highway speeds (very annoying).

As for the hitch set up, I've had flipballs installed in both of my Dodgezillas (first in Hawaii in '96 and the other here last year) both times cost $800.00 out the door. Go with a flip ball rather than a fixed ball so you can still use the bed of the truck for carrying plywood, etc. Also get the recessed safety chain attach points for the same reason. The electric brake controller you can buy and install yourself for about $100 or so. Get a good controller (see the Links page). I assume your truck is already set up for trailering with an electrical plug? Hopefully, it's already a 7-wire connection. The lighter duty 4-wire won't allow you to use the electric brakes. I prefer the 7 flat "RV" style plug to the 7 round "horsetrailer" plug. The RV plug is bigger and easier to handle (I have big hands and a small brain). I can't tell you how many times I've yanked on the horse trailer plug and had it come apart inside. A real pain in the patootie to sit on the side of the New York Throughway trying to get brakes working again because that stupid plug worked apart.... (Good thing I didn't tell Gary about that...).

Does that answer your questions? The bottom line is that if there's anyway to swing it, go for the gooseneck, deck over trailer with 10K lb axles. You'll be much happier and you won't be trailer shopping again in a year when you get so sick of that tag along you can't stand it anymore (been there, done that, got the t-shirt AND the coffee mug).

Regards,
John

If you end up with a rear hitch rather than a gooseneck, spend the extra money and get it set up for load equalizers and a torsion bar. These will help distrubute the load to the entire truck and reduce sway on the highway. Any RV dealership can help with the setup.

Here is another option Jolly if your going with tongue design.

Pintle hook and ring.

I point this out because in the construction industry pulling double bottoms, there are some extremely nasty angles to twist the consist. Considering your pulling tractors, I thought I might mention it.

In general, at what GVW weight rating/load do you get into jurisdiction of the regulators of commercial trucks (USDOT, weight/distance/fuel taxes, etc.)?

I'm pretty sure CDL doesn't apply until 26,000 lbs, air brakes, or more than 15 passengers, whichever comes first.

Are the rules different for trailers towed with a 10,000 GVW and under vehicle?

Here in Kentucky you don't have to have a license plate for a trailer used non-commercially, but I haven't been able to get anyone in the Transportation Cabinet to tell me the statute number, or exactly what kind of trailer must have a plate. Seems to be something of a legacy policy that nobody can quote exactly.

Of course, a lot of people go ahead and buy a plate anyway, since explaining all of this to an out-of-state officer is a real hassle.

---> Bill

Loco,
Yeah, funny you should mention that. When we moved here from there, I got pulled over by a Maryland State Trooper just south of the Washington DC beltway. He asked where my trailer plate was. I explained to him that in KY, we don't have to license non-commercial trailers if the truck base plate was Kentucky as well. He asked to look in my cooler (I guess that sounded fishy to him and he thought maybe I'd had a few) Showed him my two sammitches and the 20 oz Coke so he took my Ky driver license, truck registration and went to his car. I sat there for the next 45 minutes, saw a number of other State Troopers come and go (they seemed to have a massive butt scratching session going on back there...), until he finally comes back, gives me a lecture on having to register in MD within 60 days of moving here, blah, blah, blah and not one word of "Hey, you were right by golly, sorry to waste your time." Maggot civilian.

I wish more states were as progressive as the Great Commonwealth of Kentucky when it comes to registering non-commercial trailers. I guess Maine comes close... I'll tell you, though, Maryland is awful -- might as well be registering another car.

What is really great is when you can pull your fifth wheel with a truck and have a boat trailer hooked up to the fifth wheel. How many states allow that? Make sure you load up on fuel and make sure you know all the stops you will make. Also, don't try to launch the boat with the combo.

Was out looking at more trailers today, best one I see was a Walton 12KSLG, which is a lot like the first one seen above. It's going to cost just under $5000. a tow behind by the same folks but with lighter axles and a 7000 lbs gvw, will run just over $2000. These trailers are built in Logan Utah, and I priced 20 foot versions.

[img]http://www.favorites.com/~jolly/whatever/Walton-12kslg.JPG[/img]

The hight points on the flyer I got;
GVW 11,120 lbs
Tougue load 3,730 lbs
Approx Curb Wt, 2,850 lbs
Max Net load, 12,000 lbs
Main frame: 6" ay 8.2 lb/ft structural Channel iron
Deck: Treated 2x10" duoglas fir
Ramps: Removeable laddered steel ramps with underbody storage
Fenders: extra heavy fabricated fenders
Hitch: 2-5/16" ball coupler, drop over, adjustable
Landing gear: 10,000 lbs capacity drop foot
Axles: tamdem 6,000 lbs tubular
Suspension: 12,000 lb capacity slipper type
Wheels: single 6:00-16" semi-drop center with 8 on 6-1/2 bolt patter
Tires: 7:50-16" 10 ply major brand
Brakes: 2"x12-1/4" electric, all wheels, brakeaway battery.
Lights: sealed beam, rubber grommet mounted lights, steel protected, wiring in conduit
Paint: Automotive quality acrylic enamel
Tie downs: 3 heavy duty "D" rings per side
Warranty: 5-year structural limited

Just found a Used 24' x 108" high deck gooseneck listed in the paper, would be like the 2nd one pictured, $2800, 14000 gvw, one new axle. guy from out of state was passing through and hit a curb and bent the axle, so he traded it in to a dealer for a new one and went on his way, I'll be checking on it tomorrow, they close in 10 min.

Howdy,

I had a Train show to go today down in Spanish Fork, Utah, and I make a run over to Logan first to check on the 24' x 8' trailer. It's flat deck front to rear, with some kind of a metal runner down the middle, was added after it was bought. It should have 8' x 13" ramp stored in the back but they are gone, so I'll need to build some. It a CM (Contract Manufacturer) inc. built in Madill OK. it has 7000 lb. axles and is rated for 14,000 lbs.. The deck is 36" off the ground. I took some pics, and you can see them in this album, under Trailers.

[img]http://community.webshots.com/storage/1/v3/5/97/72/29559772XoraRAoeyS_ph.jpg[/img]

I going to go with this one, as it is used and about $2000 less then a new 12,000 lb. 20' lowdeck, and $2500 less than a new 12,000 lb. 20' high deck. I'll just have to learn to live with the extra 4 feet. Also it's only about a $1000 more than a 20' pull behind car trailer. I wanted 20' min so I could get two tractors or my Super C and the Twin-Six display on it to haul to shows.

See Other Photo from the front here.

I should be able to haul my engines from Texas now.

When I was hay grinding, I used to have a flat bed goose neck beaver tail trailer with dual wheels and tandem axles. It had hydraulic disk brakes. I had a tub grinder that was all a 1 ton pickup could handle. At some jobs I needed to bring my own loader tractor which sometimes meant 2 trips. One day I mounted a 5 wheel ball on the back of the flat bed to pull the grinder. I beefed up the hitch on the flat bed and bought a GMC Brigadier single axle to pull this with. After some adaptation I got the flatbed's brakes to work with the truck's air brakes. This set-up worked great--I even got the electric brakes on the tub grinder to work, too. The hardest part of the whole deal was hooking the flatbed up to the grinder--most days I could get it on the first shot but some days it was more like 10 shots.

I still wish I had the Brigadier and the flat bed--they would be pretty handy now.

My trailer now is a home-made tandem axle tilt bed. It is really nice for hauling old John Deere tractors because no ramps are required. It has a crank and screw mechanism for the tilt, and I might adapt it to a hydraulic jack later--the screw thing is not the best, at least for the lazy man It is a bumper pull and I use my 66 F**d 1/2 ton for light stuff or my 42 1.5 ton for heavy, long hauls. I am looking for an electric winch to pull on dead tractors. I will put a 120 amp alternator on the truck so the battery will be able to keep.

[ 01-20-2002: Message edited by: Racecarl ]