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Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 10
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
B Offline
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 10
I am going to restore a 1941 GMC 228. It had the Yellow Bus and Truck makers tag on it but the machine shop that cleaned it removed the tag so as not to damage it. How do you re-attach the manufacturers plate/tag? Its a small brass tag about he size of a business card, has holes in corners for rivets or?

Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 5,918
Gearhead, Stovebolt Tech and Parts Tracker, Mod for Swap Meet and GTT
Gearhead, Stovebolt Tech and Parts Tracker, Mod for Swap Meet and GTT
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 5,918
Bill, I have a 1939, 40 & 41 GMC Book of Parts, but it doesn't list a part number for the ID plate or whatever attaches it to the block. That book and the 1940 GMC Trucks Maintenance Manual X-4044 only shows what the plate looks like and where it's located on the engine. It doesn't describe how it's attached. Below is a screen grab from a 228 picture I found on line that looks to show the plate held to the block by driven round headed rivets. Someone with more info on these engine plates may be of more help in ID'ing what rivets might be used to reattach it to the block.
Attachments


~ Dan
1951 Chevy 3 window 3100
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"My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine"
1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver)
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5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,282
Are there smooth holes drilled into the cast iron? I so, that plate was likely held on by rivets, hammered into the short, blind holes with a punch.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,818
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,818
The rivets I've seen that were used to attach those tags have a short knurl just below the round head that swages itself into the blind hole in the cast iron. A plain aluminum or brass rivet with a shank about 1/8" long will expand as it bottoms out in the hole well enough to hold the tag in place. It could also be attached with epoxy cement and fake rivets inserted and glued into the holes.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
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Joined: Jun 2019
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B
'Bolter
'Bolter
B Offline
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 10
Thanks It looks like i will have to drill the holes out a little and find some rivets. The machine shop only took the heads off so as not to damage the engine tag during the cleaning.

Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 118
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 118
My 270 had thru-holes for the data plate. When I rebuilt it, I ended up using these brass nails from McMaster Carr. The head profile is pretty close to the factory rivets.

I cut them a little longer than the combined thickness of the data plate and the block, then peined them over on the inside. I also coated the ID of the holes with epoxy, to ensure that there would not be any oil seepage.

The only downside is, like many things with M-C, you have to buy way more than you need - in this case 25.

I'll never use all of these in my lifetime. If you're interested, PM me your name and address and I'll throw some in an envelope and toss them in the mail.

Best Regards....
Attachments
DataPlate.jpg (369.51 KB, 36 downloads)
DataPlateRivets.jpg (197.15 KB, 36 downloads)


Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

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