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| | Forums66 Topics126,778 Posts1,039,258 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Aug 2018 Posts: 729 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2018 Posts: 729 | I have new skins installed on my doors, and they're painted. I have all new rubber and window track parts coming from Steele Rubber. I'm thinking that it would be easier to install all of these parts and pieces with the doors installed on the truck, because they will be a little more rigid when bolted in place. Am I thinking right? Are there any pieces that need to be installed on the doors with them off of the truck? I'm surprised that the rubber that installs on the outside lip of the door is now self adhesive. I'm usually leary about self explanatory stuff, but since Steele is selling it, I assume that it's OK. Have any of you used that?
Mike Burns 1940 Chev 1/2 ton 1953 Chev 1/2 ton 1950 Studebaker Starlight Coupe 1947 Indian Chief 1943 Indian 741
| | | | Joined: Nov 2021 Posts: 1,066 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2021 Posts: 1,066 | Watching this as I will eventually have the same question. | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,828 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,828 | Mike, I installed everything in my doors on the bench with them laying outside down. Appropriate padding to protect the paint of course. It made it easier to get to than I think it would have with the doors mounted on the truck. If your doors are not rigid unless on the truck, then something isn't right. Self adhesive weatherstrip sure would have been easier to deal with than using weatherstrip adhesive, but I managed to get that done (also with the door laying on the bench)
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | Joined: Aug 2018 Posts: 729 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2018 Posts: 729 | Thanks, it does seem like the rubber that glues to the perimeter of the door, (or self adhesive) would be easier to do with the door laying flat, so I guess I'll wait until the pieces arrive and then do at least that part with the doors on the bench. In my original post, I used a poor choice of words when I said that the doors would be more rigid mounted on the truck. Obviously they would not become more rigid. What I meant was that they just wouldn't be sliding around easily.
Mike Burns 1940 Chev 1/2 ton 1953 Chev 1/2 ton 1950 Studebaker Starlight Coupe 1947 Indian Chief 1943 Indian 741
| | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,828 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,828 | Definitely do the weatherstrip on the bench. I'd hate to do that with the door mounted on the truck. I just did my passenger door weatherstrip this morning. I do need to trim a section of it a bit where I needed to cut back the edge of the door to fit the opening. But that's on the lower rear section of the door, so should be easy to do sitting on the running board.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,208 Moderator, Electrical Bay | Moderator, Electrical Bay Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,208 | I go out early before it gets hot and lay a blanket in the grass and then lay the door on top of that. Everything is easier that way. I am not a fan of self-adhesive weatherstrip. It gets much too hot here and I haven't seen any that can stay put for long. Good luck!
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
| | | | Joined: Jul 2014 Posts: 1,300 Moderator for Tons o' Fun , Co-Moderator Driveline Forum | Moderator for Tons o' Fun , Co-Moderator Driveline Forum Joined: Jul 2014 Posts: 1,300 | I'm right there with Kevin and Jon on doing the weatherstrip work "off truck". Whether you use the weatherstrip adhesive and standard weatherstripping or the adhesive backed you will need to "bunch" the weatherstrip when rounding the corners and I cannot imagine how difficult that would be with the doors mounted. Now for the window tracks , I installed those after mounting the doors.
Last edited by Dusty53; 08/04/2024 1:31 AM.
Ron - - Dusty53 1954 Chevy 3604In the Gallery Forum "You can't dance with the Devil and then wonder why you're still in Hell." "They will forget what you've said, and they will forget what you have done but they will never forget the way you made them feel." | | | | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,696 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,696 | For the door weather stripping, I laid my doors down on a automotive portable work stand with foam padding. Very simple and much easier than doing it with the doors attached to the truck.
Craig My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear My truck ....... Respect The Rust If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
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