The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts '54 6400 Driveshaft Hanger Question

Getting ready to replace the driveshaft carrier bearing and have a question about the carrier hanger bracket.

Hanger Top

Hanger Bottom

I think the square stock welded to the bracket is part of an overdone repair. Is there any type of spacer supposed to go between this bracket and the bearing carrier???

TIA

Just large flat washers. How is the drive shaft angle with that hunk of steel welded on the bottom ?

I was going to ask about the angle too, but looking closely, it doesn't appear the piece is actually welded to the top, but more one the front edge.

This would position the center bearing more toward the rear, but there is probably adequate spline to accommodate this shift. I could be all wet in how thing mounts though.

Stuart

Driveshaft was to low in the middle by the thickness of the big chunk of steel. The piece is welded to the bottom and spaced the bearing carrier down the same amount.

Eyeballing it, it looked like the center joints were lower than both the transmission and the rear end.

These two manuals will help with any and all driveshaft installation and geometry questions:

http://www.roadranger.com/Roadranger/servicesalesliterature/serachresult/RR_DSAG-0200

http://www.roadranger.com/Roadranger/servicesalesliterature/serachresult/RR_DSIG-3311

Most people have there own way of explaining it, some right, some wrong, these Spicer manuals can't be argued with, after all, back in 1904 Mr. Clarence Spicer did invent and patent the U-joint we still use today.

Grigg

I had a guy tell me once that the U-joints had to have an angle to them to properly lubricate and reduce wear. His argument was the joint will displace the lub and run dry in one spot if not flexed by an angled driveshaft. I always thought the straighter the better.

It's clear in the chart shown in the link above that any joint angle >3 degrees reduces the expected life of the joint.

Straighter the better, but only to a point. As you said, they do need a little angle to cause some movement for even wear and lubrication.

In the "Installation Techniques" manual (second of the two links above):

Rule #1, Universal joint operating angles at each end of a driveshaft should always be at least 1 degree.

Rule #2, Universal joint operating angles on each end of a driveshaft should always be equal within 1 degree of each other (1/2 degree for motor homes and shafts in front of transfer case or auxiliary device).

Rule #3, For virtual vibration free performance, universal joint operation angles should not bee larger than 3 degrees. If they are make sure they don't exceed the maximum recommended angles.

Grigg