The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Starter brushes

I need to replace the brushes on my 6 Volt starter. The number of the starter is 1107108 4K4. This is a 216 engine. The brushes in the starter now look like a rectangle with a hole in it. The listed brushes I have found have clipped corners. I don't suspect there is a great difference and both, I again suspect will work but will they? Next question, what is a good source for ordering these things? I haven't been overwhelmed with knowledge by the places I have checked so far.

Thanks

Any NAPA store should have them in stock, or at least on overnight order. Those brushes shouldn't matter if the corners are clipped or not- - - -that's not the end that rides on the commutator.
Jerry

For guys like me with OldTimer's disease, I'd recommend replacing the brushes one at a time so you get them back in facing the right way. When I did mine a few years back my local O'Reilly's had the brushes, springs and bushings in stock. The Bendix arrived the next day. May as well replace them all while you have it apart.

Mine is a GMC, but has the same 1107108 starter.

I used the following Borg Warner parts:
Starter drive (Bendix) SD212
Drive end bushing SB65
Commutator end bushing SB0
Brushes (set of 4) X265
Brush spring (need 4) SC204

Eight years ago I posted the write up below on a different old truck web site:

Removed the ground wire from the battery, then all wires from the stomp starter switch.

Took the starter apart and cleaned everything up well. Under a layer of paint from a previous overhaul, I found the starter part number 1107108 as I hoped and a build date of Aug 3, 1952, newer than my truck. Painted all the exterior parts.

The Maintenance Manual warned against using Emery cloth on the commutator. My buddy Bill (retired electrician at an Exxon gas plant) said that was because the dust will conduct. I used regular garnet 220 grit sandpaper to clean up the commutator and then Bill used a modified hack saw blade to clean out the gaps and undercut the mica insulators.

We cut the old bushings out with a small chisel, folding the bushing material into the center of the hole. Then we carefully installed the new bushings using the back side of a 9/16" socket as a driver and tapping gently with a hammer.

Replaced the springs and brushes one at a time so I could look at the other 3 to make sure I was putting it back together correctly. Left the brushes slightly loose in their holders. Installed the commutator end plate onto the armature and then tightened the screws holding the brushes once they were properly positioned.

Used a small dab of high temp grease in both bushings and on the pivot point of the arm that throws the starter drive in.

Bolted everything else back together and re-installed the starter.

A tip for getting the starter back in by yourself. Get a 2"-3" 5/16" bolt and nut. Put the bolt through the hole in the top end of the arm that activates the starter switch and turn the nut on a few turns. Makes a good handle to hold the starter while getting the nut on the top mounting stud. Once the nut is on the top stud a few turns, crawl underneath and install the underside bolt all the way tight before you finish tightening the nut on the top.

Don't forget to wait until all the starter wires are installed before connecting the battery ground cable.

By the way, I've been running this 6 volt starter on 12 volts for 11+ years now.

WORKS GREAT!

Thanks for all the comments and advice. I was putting it back together and the fiber(?( bushing that separates the armature shaft from the rear cap deteriorated and mostly disappeared. I am guessing this bushing dies two things, takes up some slack on the armature and possible does some insulation with the current, not sure about that hallucination though. I plan to hit the hardware store for a replacement unless I can find a reasonable new one. I refuse to buy a $75 rebuild kit for a 3 cent bushing, even if it is to be found in the kit.

Any thoughts?

Search Ebay for "phenolic flat washer", or possibly "Bakelite thrust washer". They should be available in all sizes, cheap!

For instance:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/162358602421?

I'd suggest a 12MM X 20MM size.
Jerry

I just found neoprene but they look a little thick

You'll need something rigid- - - - -not Neoprene. Phenolic, Nylon, Teflon, etc. Even a brass washer would probably work as there's no need for insulation back there at all. A thicker washer can be sanded or draw-filed down for the proper fit .
Jerry

These things look like nylon but since they don’t have to insulate I can find something better than what I have so far.
I was going to drill a hole in a block of wood to the depth of the spacer thickness and run a sander over it.

The main purpose of that washer is to control the end play of the armature, if I understand correctly about what you're describing. There is a thrust load against it as the pinion gear engages the flywheel teeth, so choose something that won't wear or break during the operation of the starter. Phenolic plastic, Teflon, or nylon would be the only material I would consider if the original piece isn't available. How often are you willing to rebuild the starter if you choose wrong?
Jerry

The Lowe's store near me has a pretty wide selection of nylon washers. I'll bet you could find something there. Being able to rummage thru the bins to compare to what you have is a plus.

Just to follow up, I found a brass washer that fit and did the job. The remnants of the original looked like denigrated fiber, nylon washers would have worked too. So a clean up, polished the commutator and new brushes and it spins fine. Thanks for all the advice.

I have in the process of repairing this, I have accumulated a plethora of working starters both 6 and 12 volt. Any body want to trade for a glass bowl fuel pump??