I broke out my power supply, mixed up some electrolyte and plated a few bits and pieces that were waiting for a rainy day. Plated the hood safety latch that I had welded back together and some firewall fasteners that Dusty53 and Twin Jimmys sent me. Thanks guys.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
What kind or electrolyte are you using, and how much voltage? DC, I assume, right? Would a stainless steel vat be OK, or do you need something non-conductive like glass or plastic? Jerry
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Jerry, The electrolyte is water, vinegar (I used 20%), epsom salts, karo syrup, and zinc sulfate. Ideally, you need a constant current DC source. I think a plastic bucket would be best, but not sure if a stainless vat would cause issues. It definitely would if it were in the circuit, either connected to the electrodes or the workpiece. This thread has more info on the process. Check the link in the third post there.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Very very interesting. Nice work and thanks for that write up.
Apologies if I missed this, but didn't see the method you're using to remove the rust; is that even an issue?
I've used electrolytic rust removal process before but maybe that's not even necessary.
1949 Chevrolet 3/4 Ton - Still Solid. Regular Driver OT Vehicles: 1925 Hudson Brougham Super Six 1950 Chevrolet Styline (Parts) 1952 Canuck Pontiac Sedan Delivery (Well Underway) 1973 F250 4x4 Highboy 1977 F250 4x4 Lowboy
Most of the rusty stuff gets soaked in Evaporust, then the small stuff like I recently did tumbled in a rock tumbler with sandblast grit for a day or two. I have also sandblasted larger stuff before plating.
You do need to get the rust off, or the zinc won't stick. Electrolysis will work, but I haven't tried that. My son-in-law has a setup for that using a plastic trash can and a battery charger.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Have you ever tried nickel plating? It is pretty quick and the electrolyte is simple. You just need a couple of pieces of nickel, some vinegar, salt and a low-voltage power source.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
I have not tried nickel plating, but I did buy a strip of nickel. Just never got a round tuit.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Interesting, thanks for that. I have a rock tumbler and a great big brass tumbler hadn't occurred to me to use either for rust removal on small parts.
1949 Chevrolet 3/4 Ton - Still Solid. Regular Driver OT Vehicles: 1925 Hudson Brougham Super Six 1950 Chevrolet Styline (Parts) 1952 Canuck Pontiac Sedan Delivery (Well Underway) 1973 F250 4x4 Highboy 1977 F250 4x4 Lowboy
