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Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 14
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'Bolter
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Posts: 14
Ive looked all over and cant find a ball stud for the draglink on my 1946 2ton truck. Does anyone have a source, or am I just trying to find the best used that I can??

I dont want to punch this one out until I have a replacement. It looks like about 0.750 shoulder and 0.750 diameter. Still uses the 1" ball.

Worst case Ill draw it up and have something machined out of 4340 or similar.
Attachments
20240616_192405.jpg (67.25 KB, 105 downloads)

Last edited by Peggy M; 08/05/2024 5:44 PM. Reason: added more info to the title

-Nathan

1946 Chevy 2 Ton Dump
-Rusty, crusty, and get plenty of engine out services!
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 5,983
Gearhead, Stovebolt Tech and Parts Tracker, Mod for Swap Meet and GTT
Gearhead, Stovebolt Tech and Parts Tracker, Mod for Swap Meet and GTT
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 5,983
Nathan, Not sure I'm understanding which piece you are needing. Is this the ball stud on the end of the left side steering arm (see pic below with red box around part description) that the drag link from the steering box arm connects to?

If that is the correct part, the 1962 Chevy Master Parts book lists 2 different part numbers that can apply to your 1946 2 Ton. The key is the casting number on your axle to determine which arm is needed. I can't tell what the differences between the 2 are??? headscratch The ball studs do not seem to be listed as separate pieces, nor could I find anything reproduced being offered on the web. Perhaps another Big Bolt owner with a 1941-46 2 Ton can help you out with more info???

I did come across an NOS steering arm for a 1946 COE but that won't fit a non-COE 2 Ton.
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Last edited by Gdads51; 06/24/2024 9:23 PM. Reason: spelling

~ Dan
1951 Chevy 3 window 3100
Follow this story in the DITY Gallery
"My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine"
1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver)
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,139
The attached listing for the repair kits for the drag link tells me that the balls are all the same size from 41-52, so as long as the shank is the same diameter, you can get replacement balls from the usual vendors and install them in the steering arms. Here's one option from Jim Carter Link They also have ones that are threaded and held in place with a nut.
Attachments
Drag link repair kit.jpg (30.5 KB, 89 downloads)

Last edited by klhansen; 06/24/2024 9:30 PM. Reason: It'd help if I attached the listing

Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
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'Bolter
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Dan, correct, the ball stud on the driver side steering arm. I figured since the half ton ball studs were offered maybe the larger ones were too.

I couldnt find the ball stud listed as a separate piece in any of the parts books either. Looks like I have 3681101 on my axle, so I need arm 3685153

The only thing I could find remotely close was for a 47-52 truck. They have I think the same shank diameter, but the shank length is too short. (https://store.fillingstation.com/detail/SA-156T/Chevrolet_194752_PU_DRAG_LINK_BALLSTHREADED.html)

I may have to call a guy or two local and see who might have something in their yard.


Kevin,

Unfortunately the ball is the right size, but the press in shank is not. The one on the steering arm is larger on a big truck.


-Nathan

1946 Chevy 2 Ton Dump
-Rusty, crusty, and get plenty of engine out services!
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,139
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,139
Nathan, if you're looking at the bottom of the arm to determine the shank size, you should know that the shank was peened into a chamfer at the end of the hole, so would appear larger until you get rid of the peened material. You can see the chamfer (on both ends of the bore) in the attached pic as I was pressing in the replacement ball on my 1/2 ton steering arm.

[on edit] You said too short, not too small. My bad. Maybe you could weld in the shorter ball shank? The one at Jim Carter I linked looks like it might be longer. You might call them and see if it would work.
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IMG_3799.jpg (271.15 KB, 81 downloads)

Last edited by klhansen; 06/25/2024 1:10 AM.

Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 14
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'Bolter
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Kevin, I can roughly see where the original material and the peen over is. That's what I was measuring too. Ill have to give them a shout. Someone has to of dealt with this before.


-Nathan

1946 Chevy 2 Ton Dump
-Rusty, crusty, and get plenty of engine out services!
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 5,983
Gearhead, Stovebolt Tech and Parts Tracker, Mod for Swap Meet and GTT
Gearhead, Stovebolt Tech and Parts Tracker, Mod for Swap Meet and GTT
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 5,983
Nathan, Just in case it helps when calling local yards to search for what you need, the arm listed as GM# 3685153 has a casting# on it that should read "3685157". Typical of GM to mark something with one casting number, but ID it under a different part number. dang


~ Dan
1951 Chevy 3 window 3100
Follow this story in the DITY Gallery
"My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine"
1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver)
US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 14
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'Bolter
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Dan, gotta love GM doing a typical GM thing! I appreciate the help!


-Nathan

1946 Chevy 2 Ton Dump
-Rusty, crusty, and get plenty of engine out services!
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 197
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 197
They had two arms for axle 3681101 in 1946.
Forge No. 3682133 and 3685157.
Any used arm will need the ball replace.

The ball from The Filling Station SA-156T is only .130 shorter. I think it will work.
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'Bolter
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Jim, I may order one of the SA-156T ball sets. Ill probably also try to find another arm to experiment with before I take mine completely out of service.


-Nathan

1946 Chevy 2 Ton Dump
-Rusty, crusty, and get plenty of engine out services!

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