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Don't think it will hold up?

I picked up my front fenders and grill last week , finally had some time to help my friend who is painting it for me get at it.
What I decided to do was assemble the front end and then set it on the chassis.
I built a stand out of pressure treated blocks I had around the shop. After that I lag bolted the radiator support to the stand and began assembly.
It took me a few days to get it completed. But all of the bolts and anti sqeak material is in place.
Lowes has a large assortment of automotive hardware in case you are in need and don't want stainless which I did not.
I recently order radiator bolts from jim Carters and when I got them they were the exact same Hillman bolts that you can buy at Lowes.
I had a inner fender to fender anti sqeak kit that came with my truck. I used 3M weather strip adhesive form them. I did see that stables had been used originally. Binder clips were used to hold them in place while the adhesive set. Seemed to work well.

I did it this way after fighting with it when I assembled the truck before I dismantled it to paint.
It was way easier at least for me to assemble it like this.
I managed to do it by my self and without nicks and scratches in the paint.
Just need to recruit help to set it on the chassis now.
I need to research how to best do the welting on the fender as I have never done it before.

Otto,
What is it that make you worry about my fuel pump?

So this past week I managed to get the back half of my frame cleaned sanded and painted. I used POR 15. The product flows out nice and fills in imperfection. MY frame has no scale rust what so ever. I was happy with how it came out.
As you can see in the pictured the rear needed cleaned and painted. I'm going to take it back out this winter and detail it.
I have gathered most everything I need to bolt the front clip on. I hope to get it done this week. The hood is getting painted this weekend so next will come up with a plan to get it back on.i will still need to paint the under side of the hood when I get it back. My goal is to get it back on the road and drive it this summer.

Today I managed to get the wiring from the front under the cab back to the rear bumper.
Also cleaned, sanded and painted the rest of the running board brackets . Still had enough time to push it outside and sweep the shop some. Started to sprinkle so had to cut that short.

Got some things moved around and set up to set the assembled front clip on.
All the bolts for the inner fenders,brackets, grill, lower valance, and radiator support are installed.
Now just have to find some able bodied Bolters to help set it on!! Any takers?

Look who I found wandering around in Northeast PA today!
Met up with Cosmo in Sayre,PA and scored an awesome set of vintage Fenton Headers complete with an Intake and two barrel carb! So pumped can't even remember what carb Cosmo said it was! Will be a great addition to the 261 in my 51.
It was great meeting him and chatting. Looking forward to doing it again soon.

Thanks Cosmo!

Yesterday was a good day! My son graduated from sixth grade and is headed to junior high next year.
Had a party at the house for him and his friends. A lot of the parents hung out as well so I to advantage of the situation and put them to work.
Big thanks to Matt, James, and Gary who lifted the 51's front clip up and gentle placed it on the chassis for me.
Then Beverages were enjoyed by all
Went super smooth took less than five minutes
Thanks to Marlee my middle daughter for snapping the pics!

Managed to get a good start on wiring under the hood and head lights back. Only to discover that I now have a gremlin which is causing the red four way indicator on the turn signal switch to be stead on without the four ways turned on and my horn is not working. The turn signals will light when turned on but do not flash nor do the four ways.
To tired to chase it down tonight. Hopefully maybe the flasher is bad. Not sure about the horn.
Also got the fender bolts all installed as well as the radiator support to frame bolts. Left them loose till I get the hood on.

After a good night sleep I was able to trouble shoot my gremlins from last night.
Yes the flasher was bad. And I hadn't fully tightened the steering wheel down from when I had it apart to finish painting so wasn't making good contact with the horn ring.
Finally getting some room back in my shop. Beautiful day so was able to clean and re organize the shop a bit. Was getting out of control.

Today had some time so I fixed the mounting brackets on my radiator. At some point I'm thinking when they installed the 261 with the long water pump shaft, they decided to hack up the mounts on the radiator to move it forward so the fan would clear.
I had some flat sheet stock , so was able to quickly make some filler pieces.

Took me about an hour. Now I can clean and paint and get it back installed.

After making the structural repairs to the radiator frame. I was able to get it scuffed and painted.
Yesterday I got the radiator installed and tied up a few loose ends in the engine bay. The fan looks to be back as it should now with short shaft water pump.
Today had the truck running again so now it is able to be moved around on its own power again.
Also installed the running boards.
Still need to fix my seat adjusters.

Picked up my hood Friday and was able to get it bolted back on. It was the safest place to place out of the way in the shop.
I purchased a set of hinge bolts from LMC truck because I was missing one of the original bolts and one had threads that were questionable. Unfortunately I'm not happy with the new bolts. The should portion of the bolts is considerably wider and I'm not sure how they will work out when adjusting the hood and front clip.
So now begins the daunting task of adjusting the front clip and hood. I plan on following 52Carls step by step procedures from the paint and body tech tips.
I'm optimistic it will go smoothly.

Just checking in. Been busy with sons baseball.
Been driving my truck since July 1st fairly regularly.
My Friend Guy snapped this pick tonight at the local ice cream shop. Also pictured is his military Jeep.

I will post the details of driving the truck thus far soon when I have more time.
Stay tuned!

That's not a Jeep. It's an M-151 Mutt, the Jeep's replacement. Unibody construction and independent front and rear suspension. The horizontal grill openings were designed to avoid trademark infringement against Willys-Overland.

Yes. My mistake. He also has a few old willys in various conditions. So I will own that one!

Took the 51 out again tonight. Big lights at the local Chevrolet dealership really makes the Seacrest Green pop!

So I took Hotrod Lincolns advise and purchased a better quality battery disconnect switch from my local flaps. A little expensive but the difference was obvious.
I decided to mount it on the transmission cover back next to seat. I took a gasket punch to take care of cutting the carpet so when the key is removed it is very inconspicuous.

Took the torque tube apart from the transmission this past week to address an oil leak. And to try and figure out why my speedometer isn't working. The cable and speedometer was function ok. Gear coming out of transmission was not. I discovered that the small gear has become severely worn in the center. I am in search of one if anyone has any sources for one. The one I have is a 12 tooth for an MT420 4 speed transmission. The part I am seeking is circle in red.

Took a day and took my son to the Nascar Race at Watkins Glen Today! Great day for a race. !
Best part , all on Coke Cola's dime! They are one of the vendors that service one of our businesses.

I was there with my wife. Great day and great race!

Yes! Should have posted sooner! Maybe could have gotten together.

Ok it's time to get back on track here!
If you haven't been following along i was in the Driveline forum for a bit. Where I sorted out my speedometer. Check it out if you care too. I will post a few pics here as well.
Started on my vent window rebuilds as well and the door glass replacement a couple weeks back. Just finished up the drivers door today. Went pretty well, only had to step away from it once yesterday afternoon. when I was reassembling everything back into the door. Got back at it this morning and everything fell into place. I'm sure passenger side will go much smoother. Now that I know the order in which things must go into the door.

Also starting to get thevparts around to reassemble my bed

Here is some pics of installing the channels on the door glass.

I will post a few pics of the finished door tomorrow. And will do a step by step reassembly of the door glass, vent window assembly, felt, window regulator, inside trim and door panel.
Thanks for checking us out!
FYI started a new thread in DIY gallery with my son and his new 64 K10 project. Should be a lot of fun.

The first picture is of a door ready to start reassembly. And the second is a completed door. I reinstalledthe old door panels i had till I get new this winter.
The glass is the gray tint from LMC truck. Also the rebuild parts for the vent window and the channel kit came from there as well.

Looks good! Great work!

Getting after the passenger door today. First thing I did a few days ago was to clean , sand, and paint the inside of the door with POR15. Then I installed sound deadening strips to dampen the tinny noise. Did this in the rest of the cab along with insulation. Made a big difference. No insulation in the doors though. Then I installed the rubber bumper that the glass sits on when the window is in the down position.

Then I went to the rubber wiper strip on the top of outer panel. You need to bend the little tab back to slide it in easy. And the pinch it back out of the way.

Also your lock on the passenger door and door handle and latch are all installed prior to putting the door glass and related parts back in the door.

Next I replaced the foam on the door. I just learned today from reading a post from Phak1, that is there to keep the inside door panel from dragging on the latch linkage. Then went to the window channel Retainer at the back of the door. The little clip at the bottom of the Retainer strip holds the window channel inside the Retainer at the bottom, and don't forget the screw on the inside of the door at the top of the retainer. Next I temporarily reinstalled the vent window assembly and marked with a Sharpie where the end of the window channel will fall when installed. There is also two small screws in the upper part of the window frame to help hold the window channel in place. There location was marked on the door so they could be reinstalled.

Now I went on to installing the felt strip to the inside window frame trim. The felt strips came with staples to install it. I opted to use pop rivets. When I did the driver side door I used the rivets. You can't see them in the finished product and they pull below the felt enough as to not contact the window.

I had to step away from finishing my passenger door. My box sides,front and cross braces were all painted and ready to pick up so I needed to get out of my friends shop. So when I got them home I began reassembling them most because I did not want them to get knocked over and damaged.
So in a couple of hours time I was able to get the main part of the box bolted together. Just organizing and getting the orientation of parts now.

Looking good! I like the color.

FWIW, the rear cross sill was welded to the stake pockets on the bed sides (see attached pic.) The welds add rigidity to the rear of the bed. I assembled my bed without wood before final painting, so i could paint that welded spot with everything else.

KL I had noticed that. The welds had been cut before I acquired the truck. I was thinking of putting spacers made out of tubing that each of the three bolts would go through up inside the pocket from the bottom.

I don't think I would use spacers on the bottom 4 bolts. That would lessen the clamping force. They should just sandwich the metal of the cross-sill and the stake pocket. The one on the rear just above the two bottom ones should also just got thru the tailgate hinge lower bolt, the stake pocket and the cross sill. That one is going to provide the most support to keep the bed sides from spreading.
The other option (and best in my opinion) would be to clean paint off the area where the weld go, run a weld bead and touch up the paint there.

Good point KL. This base coat and flat clear I'm using is very user friendly. Real easy to blend or so my painter tells me. I've seen him do some miner touch up stuff with an air brush on motorcycle tanks which were undetectable. So welding will probably be the best option.

Just a quick update.
Been busy staining the bed wood. Acfriend of mine had some black oak lying around his shop so he cut it to dimensions for me. I used min wax ebony stain. And finished it with Boiled linseed oil. Also installed my windlace to the inside of the cab. A job I had been putting off. And after doing it ,for good reason. That is a mind numbing job with no easy way to do it. Getting started assembly of the bed this week.

So after I squared up the bed I started by installing the four center boards with strips. I used a semi deep socket with holds the nut out at the end. Took a small piece of windshield install tape to hold the 1 inch fender washer to the end of the socket. Worker really well. Then I installed the second and third cross sill to the center four boards. Then I located the side angle piece and drilled them to attach to the sides of the box. Two of the bolts holding it are fender bolts. The other bolts are all hidden from view from the outside. One nut is up inside the stake pocket at the front of the box. Leaving the two outside boards out so I can set the box on and locate where I need to drill the boards for the bed hold down bolts. In the last picture you can see the rubbing marks in the side of the bed from the cross sills when it was previously assembled. I'm pretty close so I must be doing something right. I can push up from the bottom to take the little bit of sag out of it and it's right on.

I think I'm ready to set the box down on the frame.
I opted to use the rubber blocks mostly because I had them in my stache of parts. I glued them to the frame with weather strip adhesive. I also placed a block of wood under the frame cross braces that supports the spare tire to keep it from dropping when trying to line up the bolts. My supervisor Frank has been keeping a close eye on production and Quality Control! Now just need to recruit some help to set the box into place. Then I can figure out where I need to drill the wood for the bolts.

Love it when a plan comes together! Bolts dropped right in. Tied the block and tackle line off on the running board of my Duramax. As you can see in the last picture everything lined right up. Highly recommend to glue blocks/ pads to the frame. Worked perfectly.
Ordered all my black hardware from McMaster - Carr out of NJ. For me always comes next day.