The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
9 - 11 Memorials

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
2 members (baldeagle, Rusty Heaps), 89 guests, and 5 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,014
Posts1,055,327
Members48,419
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#1547190 05/16/2024 3:49 PM
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 123
D
'Bolter
'Bolter
D Offline
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 123
Currently my 1956 Chevy 261 is at the machine shop getting work done, so while it is there I am going to get a start on cleaning up all the tin work. Not being that familiar with all the different paint types I am looking for a recommendation on a paint system to use, the more I read the more confused I get.

Everything will be blasted to bare metal and I would prefer to spray from a gun, not a rattle can.

What would you all recommend for a primer, color coat and clear if necessary? Any specific brands you like?

Going to be painting it yellow. As you can see at some point it was painted red, but you can defiantly see the yellow was applied first.

Edit to say I am currently thinking a DTM Epoxy Primer with a Single Stage Urethane over top.
Attachments
20240427_191006.jpg (308.16 KB, 119 downloads)

Last edited by DougH6100; 05/16/2024 4:24 PM.
DougH6100 #1547194 05/16/2024 5:18 PM
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,249
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,249
Originally Posted by DougH6100
Edit to say I am currently thinking a DTM Epoxy Primer with a Single Stage Urethane over top.

That is typically my usual plan.

DougH6100 #1547238 05/16/2024 11:22 PM
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 1,982
7
'Bolter
'Bolter
7 Offline
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 1,982
Doug, I am specifically fond of the PPG line, the epoxy primer and acrylic urethane goes on like silk. See if you have a "Painters Supply" in Mason or Lansing. I'll look. Painters Supply and Equipment, 717 S. Pennsylvania Ave, Lansing.

Last edited by 78buckshot; 05/16/2024 11:24 PM.

1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
DougH6100 #1547250 05/17/2024 1:06 AM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,270
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
5 Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,270
Who will be blasting the engine? Most machine shops have a hot tank which usually removes all of the old paint and rust.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
52Carl #1547283 05/17/2024 11:33 AM
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 123
D
'Bolter
'Bolter
D Offline
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 123
Originally Posted by 78buckshot
Doug, I am specifically fond of the PPG line, the epoxy primer and acrylic urethane goes on like silk. See if you have a "Painters Supply" in Mason or Lansing. I'll look. Painters Supply and Equipment, 717 S. Pennsylvania Ave, Lansing.

Thanks for the tip Bob, I'll look into that place.

Originally Posted by 52Carl
Who will be blasting the engine? Most machine shops have a hot tank which usually removes all of the old paint and rust.

Yes the machine shop is going to bake and blast the head and the block. I will be blasting all of the sheet metal parts.

DougH6100 #1547330 05/17/2024 11:40 PM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,270
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
5 Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,270
I always let my machine shop know to not paint my block or head. I want it raw metal even if some flash rust shows up.
I then clean it up with a Scotchbrite pad soaked in acetone and scrub it down. I then apply Ospho with a paint brush, let it sit for 24 hours so that the chemical reaction is complete, then get a new Scotchbrite pad and wipe the block with it to remove the white powdery residue. SInce the rust has been converted to iron phosphate, no further chemical reaction will occur. I then wipe it down with acetone again and paint it with color. This process results in a very long lasting result.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
DougH6100 #1547335 05/18/2024 12:08 AM
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 1,982
7
'Bolter
'Bolter
7 Offline
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 1,982
Doug, let me know if they won't sell to you, I can get whatever you want from the branch in Ann Arbor. I bought my first Binks gun, DA, Binks Respirator, etc from the Ann Arbor branch in 1974/1975. I still have the gun and DA.


1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy

Moderated by  klhansen 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0