The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay ignition wiring help for 235 in my 1959

Good morning,
I'm trying to get my ignition wiring right... 1959, 235, stomp start. The wiring harness is M&H electrical.
The diagram doesn't specify ign 1 or ign 2, it only says ign.
Start, Bat and Acc are clearly marked, but I'm not sure which terminal is ign 1 vs ign 2. I can't determine which wire goes to which terminal.
Any help you all can provide is appreciated!

Thanks,
Mike

IGN1 and IGN2 are not the same. One suppliers ignition voltage to the coil through the ballast resistor when the switch is in the "run" position. The other supplies ignition voltage to the coil bypassing the ballast resistor when the switch is in the "start" position.

If you have an electronic ignition that doesn't use a ballast resistor, IGN1 and IGN2 must still be both connected at the switch but must be jumpered together.

I recommend testing your switch.
Most likely when you turn to ACC only ACC will be hot.
When you turn to run ING1 and ACC will be hot
when your turn to start ING1 will be cold, ING 2 will be hot and sol will be hot.
This is the reason you have to jumper both if using a electronic ignition.

and if i read your post right i could tell you lol

ING1 and ACC share the same set of posts and this is ok. Some switches did this as they are both hot during RUN position in normal operation.

ING2 will be hot and ING1 and ACC will be cold when starting until you release back to run most likely you can test this of course

That is not the proper switch for a stomp starter. If you use it you do not use the start or ign. 2 terminals.

George

ING1 and ACC may be hot in both run and start. IGN2 goes hot in START to bypass the resistor to the coil connected from IGN1. With both IGN1 and IGN2 hot, it feeds 12V to the coil. It doesn't matter if IGN1 is also hot.

The above is only correct for solenoid operated starters.

George is also correct, as the stomp starter switch (on the starter) has the contact and bypass wire direct to the coil to supply 12V during cranking.

Also with the switch pictured above, with IGN1 and ACC common, there won't be an accessory position to be able to run accessories with the engine stopped, as the coil would be energized as well.

Ok, thank you! Sounds like I need to order a new ignition switch. Does anyone have a link for the correct switch to use with the stomp starter?

Thats why that switch should be tested to confirm operation. In each position

You can use that one you just would not wire somethings like the start position stuff because the stomp is doing that work. you would not be turning it to that position during operation anyway.
You do need to verify how it operates then they guys can advise you on how to wire it. If you want to go back to period correct switch then order away and wire normal.

If I want to run this switch until I get the correct one, where do I connect the purple wire if I don't use the START terminal?

Thank you, I will get the meter out and report back!

although the M+H is a great wire. They don`t have the 58-59 down yet. I had to modify mine.

If I want to run this switch until I get the correct one, where do I connect the purple wire if I don't use the START terminal?[/quote]

You do not need the purple wire. You can hook it to the start term. & if you ever change to a solenoid type starter it will be there.
If someone uses your truck besides you it will be very confusing when they try starting with the key.

George

1. I have linked a switch below. A good choice.
2. You can use that blistered out corroded switch if you clean the terminals. Not a good idea to have electrical components sitting in the dirt, dead grass, etc. Just on the bench.

3. To wire that switch: (for starting only)
One wire from battery source to ignition switch BAT terminal.
One wire from IGN/ACC terminal to one side of ballast resistor.
One wire from other side of ballast resistor to coil positive terminal.
One wire from the foot stomp switch side terminal to coil positive terminal.
The ignition switch will only be used as On/Off. On is first position CW.

These are all pieces of wire, not part of the harness you bought. Any colors or same colors for now. We will get the harness installed later after new switch. So don't hook up any other wires to switch. Assuming you just want to start and not drive much.
Don't know if you want lights and charging now or at a later stage. What stage are you at with the truck? We can outline an electrical plan if you tell us what is done and what needs to be done.

You can test your so called "V8" switch for continuity between BAT and ACC when switch is in first clockwise position and when off.

THIS will work just fine but is not exactly original.

Wish you would have asked about which harness to buy (if you bought the MH) when you see the words "reproduction harness" from a "specialty" vendor, you will get ripped off for more than double the price of a universal harness and get WAY less..... and little or NO fuses, bad instructions, maybe no diagrams, no expansion circuits. The only "advantage" is you don't have to cut wires to length and crimp anything usually.

I wish I would have come to the experts first as well!

Thanks for all the input, I plan to do some testing this afternoon. I’m sure I’ll come up with a couple more questions᠁

Mike

It's great you have the ambition and are energetic. Your original question has been answered on how to wire for start. Tried to get a feel for where you are at with electrical. Others have helped a great deal on the original question. Gave you a stomp switch to use.
You now say you need to do some testing. We need to do this one step at a time with your feedback, reporting results of the switch hook up and other questions asked in order to maintain steady progress. We can't see, hear or study the issue from our house. So your reports are helpful. Moving forward with testing is ok if you know what you are dong. But it's nice if you would tell is what the purpose if it is. There is really nothing to test right now except if the motor starts with the switch wired per instructions. Suggesting not to wire anything else to switch until new switch arrives.
Is the testing because you are unsure of something or what? Just trying to prevent new problems I've seen others have by "testing" electrical without advise.
We are glad to answer any and all questions.
Be sure you have the negative battery cable disconnected while working on wiring.

Totally understood, and I appreciate the help! All I found out today is that even though the switch appears to be the wrong one for a stomp start, it does in fact only have two positions. in the off position there is no continuity between the bat terminal to any other terminal, and in the on position there is continuity between the bat and the acc / ign 1 terminals. I will wire as you stated above battery source to bat terminal, ign 1 to resistor, etc. I'll report back tomorrow.

The switch has more than off and on. It also has a spring loaded far right position for solenoid starters and possibly a far left. But anyway, glad it will work for now.

I have a copy of your harness instructions.

1. Do you have an alternator or generator?
2. Have you mostly completed the lights wiring and dash/gauge wiring?...or routed/roughed in?
I know there are a few things that get fed by the ignition switch. You are holding off on those a little. yes?
3. Did you order the new ign switch?...or do you want to use the V8 switch you have?

Neither 'purple' would be used if you keep the stomp start.
Purple wire #5 gets +batt from the 'start' key terminal to the neutral safety switch. Purple #6 goes from the other side of the safety switch to the starter.
It might be wired thru the fuse panel for protection. If you don't use it, don't fuse it.
You can save the wiring in case in the future you remove the stomp starter and go modern, then the key switch you currently have will be fully functional.
But a stock stomp start only has off/on key switch.

The back of my 58 stomp ign switch looks like this.
5 ACC spades, with one being IGN-1
1 IGN-2
1 START
2 BAT The switch itself with the key just goes to the ON.
No spring back from start to ON.
The 5 ACC would say this is right before the Fuse block option offered.

my guess is the manufacture just kept the same switch for both solenoid and stomp start and just changed the inside to only go from off to on without a start. Saves on manufacturing multiple flavors of exteriors. Since its hidden no one complained.
That or someone has modified that switch in the past.

It would be VERY strange (to me) if the key did not have a start position/spring loaded far right position on a switch with a start terminal. But if we have two guys that say no, then it's something to learn. Maybe some day I will find one and take it apart.
Could it be GM had a tumbler that was pinned differently as HCB says.

This pretty much as HBC said. The inner lock housing has a shelf on the top side there where the key core
turns and only allows it to turn one click. The later housing will go around a bit further. The shelf was flatten.