Hey Fellas! Finally installed an orig turn signal switch(replacement), and actually got them to work! Took me a day or two of troubleshooting!
Question. I purchased everything listed for the horn button from LMC. Including new bushing with wire. I assembled it all with our orig cap which is in good shape. The horn works, but the button sticks a lot. I feel like I'm missing some sort of spring that would help the button pop up away. I installed the heavy tightly coiled spring under the wheel. (is that wrong?) I installed the round flat piece that has the teeth mounted on it to hold the cap under the steering wheel nut. Does that sound correct? I feel like under the cap should be a large 2 or 3 coiled spring about 2in diameter. Does that flat plate supposed to flex that much? I don't see how under the hold down nut.
I can send a pic later today if needed.
Its a 1959 Chevy Apache 3100 shortbed stepside with original steering wheel.
This gizmo is all that makes the horn button "pop up".
Last edited by Bill Hanlon; 04/29/20241:39 PM.
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
Yes, it is supposed to flex and there are 3 non-conducting washers there on the rivets. I've rebuilt some of these and finding insulating washers is often not easy. When the two sides touch each other, your circuit is complete and your horn honks. Good luck!
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
The picture I posted above is of a brand new from Classic Parts horn switch that I installed in my '52 eleven years ago. It didn't work when I installed it. After a little investigating, I found that someone in the factory in whatever 3rd world country that made it didn't understand that the very nicely painted black piece was supposed to conduct electricity to the bare metal bottom piece when the horn button was pushed. I pinched a piece of 240 grit sandpaper between the two pieces and sanded off the black paint. Been working well since.
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
Well I think my problem is it is way too stiff. I think it was from LMC, usually they have good products. My horn honks but the cap seems to get stuck in down position then the horn wont shut off.
Just in case it may help, below is a screenshot from a 1955-59 Factory Assembly Manual showing the exploded diagram for the steering wheel with horn button assembly. Perhaps this helps???
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Ok dug my old plate out of leftover parts bin. Its way more springy than the new one. So I cleaned it up a bit and installed it. IT WORKS!
Bill Hanlon after thinking about what you posted my new plate has paint all underneath the first plate as well. I'm hard headed but your words kept repeating in my head. You were correct Sir.
Here is a picture my Queen took. That's me under the hood re connecting the Horns
