The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Replaced a Rochester B with a Carter YF today...

Good points, Bill. I’ve never put much effort into figuring out how long it takes for the fuel to evaporate in my carb.

The YF is awesome. Starts up stupid-easy, like first rotation, as long as it has fuel. And I can push in the choke almost right away as long as I pull the throttle cable just a hair. That’s in moderate to hot weather. Winter time takes just a bit longer.

A “next day” start is also instantaneous. Shooting from the hip, I’d guess that a week of sitting equals 5 seconds (more or less) of cranking. I interpret that as a pretty empty bowl. Maybe not totally dry.

Same with mine. Pull the choke about half way for cold starts and kick it back to about 1/2 inch when rolling out of the garage less than 5 seconds later. Off by the time I exit my (admittedly long at about 500 feet) gravel driveway.

I removed the throttle cable on mine and moved the choke cable down to the throttle cable position on the dash to allow more room for my electric wiper motor. I've found that the first half inch of choke cable pull doesn't actually start to close the choke, but it does bring on the idle speed cam enough to kick up engine RPM to 800-850.

Check to see how long it takes for the fuel bowl to empty by looking down the throttle and goosing it by hand. Once you stop seeing the accelerator pump squirt, you'll know how long in between starts it takes to drain. Fill up the fuel bowl before that happens to keep the diaphragm submerged in fuel by running your electric fuel pump, or cranking the engine to get the gas up into the bowl.

OK, you guys have me gun shy now.... if all these parts and kits are "pricey...." Please define that better.

John - check your messages.

Looks like I used up one more of my chocolate flavored shoes when I replied John might want to go up a couple of thousanths on the main jet without looking at the spec sheet. Carter made a few YF carbs where the main metering jet is pressed into the body assembly and IS NOT GENERALLY THOUGHT TO BE REMOVABLE (Jerry - hush, not everyone can pull a pressed-in jet, make a new one on a jewelers lathe, and press it into place!). The 4371s is one of those.

The carb may still be recalibrated, but recalibration is done by changing metering rods. While somewhat difficult to do the math and calculate the diameters to cut the rod; the rod change DOES effect a better calibration change than just changing jets. Just more tedious, and somewhat more expensive. Before actually changing jets or metering rods on any carburetor, one can APPROXIMATE the effects of the change by adjusting the float to change the fuel level by a 1/16 of an inch, which is approximately one calibration size. One can generally save money by testing.

The kit for that carb contains:

1A-31 Flange gasket
17-78 Pump check needle
20-204 Needle seat gasket
20-237 Filter nut gasket
24-27 Float pin
25-965S Needle and seat assembly (spring loaded, correct orifice)
30-87 Bowl filter
30A-44 Idle mixture screw
61-451 Pump diaphragm spring
63-135 Retainer
63-149 Retainer
121-579 Bowl cover gasket
121-172 Pump lifter link gasket
121-319 Bowl filter gasket
121-598 Body flange gasket
150A-10 Pin spring
172-21 Retainer
172-24 Retainer
203-137 Pump diaphragm (red or black to the customer's taste)

If the jet had been replaceable, it would have also been in the kit.

I don't believe prices have a place in the forum threads, John has been supplied with the pricing. If John disagrees, I have no problem with him posting the prices.

Jon

Thanks Jon!