The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 1948 Chevy Thriftmaster 3100 radiator options?

For those of you who have not followed the few threads I've posted on here, my recently acquired 1948 Chevy Thriftmaster 3100 pickup is not stock. Somewhere along the way the original owner replaced the factory 216 with a 1954 235 passenger car engine (sadly, not the Blue Flame version); but it was rebuilt.

What I'm assuming is still the factory 1948 brass radiator is leaking. I put a few cooling system seal tabs in and it seems to have stopped up the leaks for now, but who knows for how long. I'm getting sticker shock from the prices I've heard it costs to have a factory radiator re-cored. The upper tank on my radiator has some dents in it, so it isn't that great looking as it is, and I'm not sure it is worth it to re-core this radiator since the truck isn't factory stock anyway.

I've seen replacement 2 and 3 core Aluminum radiators for sale on ebay around $117 - $130 or so (obviously all made in China). I also see that Classic Parts sells an all-new, USA-made radiator for about $625 (not aluminum).

What would you do since it's not stock? Would you save some $$$ and just throw a cheap ebay aluminum radiator in and run that? Or would you spend the money on having the factory radiator re-cored or buy a new American-made one from a place like Classic?

First, very few of these trucks have their original engines or other parts. Nobody really cares and I don't even think it affects the value in a negative way. Most people would rather have the 235 instead of the 216.

My truck has a 1951 engine and a 1941 radiator.

Anyway, I would not buy the cheapo aluminum radiator. I'd have your original repaired. How do you know it needs to be recored? It may just need to have some of the tubes soldered up.

In the overall scheme of things, how much is the recore job compared to other crap you spend money on? Spend the money to do it right and you'll forget about the expense as soon as you're driving the truck.

The radiator part number is embossed on the top tank. You can use the numbers to see if it actually is the original radiator. Even if it isn't, it will be a lot better than anything made today, I'm sure.

Patching on an old, rotten radiator core can be a never ending nightmare. Even a replacement core from 40 or 50 years ago is still- - - - -OLD!

Either bite the bullet and buy a new copper core radiator- - - -"Buy once- - -cry once"- - - - -or be willing to replace a 3rd. world repop radiator two or three times for around the same cost. Whatever you do, be sure to also upgrade the heater core to the same pressure rating as the radiator so you can take advantage of running pressurized coolant that has a higher boiling point that the "zero pressure" system you have now.
Jerry

Yes, if it's really bad. If it's not clogged up and only has a couple pinholes in some of the tubes, I'd fix it.

My Cadillac has its original radiator and has had pinholes soldered about 3 times in the last 23 years. Other than that it isn't clogged up and cools properly.

I would verify the actual condition of the radiator before assuming it needs a total recore. The local radiator shop here charges $65 to boil out a radiator and seal any leaks.

You're lucky to still have an old school radiator shop! There's only one around here that services both Seattle and Portland-and they won't boil out and fix. They'll just recore for $7-900.

Wow. Can you tell if the core is shot or just leaky? Does it look all corroded up?

Maybe contact Sims Radiator here and see what they'd charge to do it or see if they can get you a brass/copper radiator for less money. I bought a new brass radiator for a '66 Mustang two years ago from them for $200. A recore job on the original was going to be $400.

Sims Radiator 770-939-8020

www.simsradiator.com

I'd buy the new copper/brass radiator from somewhere if there's no hope in fixing the one you have.

I have a local radiator shop that can re-core the radiator, if necessary. They won't give me a price over the phone - they want to see the radiator. I'll probably remove it from the truck and take it over them to get an estimate.

It has corrosion on sections of the core and the leaks were in the core, but they were minor. As previously stated, cooling system seal tabs stopped up those leaks (but I don't know how long this repair will last).