The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 1956 235 Cam and Rear main Seal Questions

I’m rebuilding a 56 235 and have some cam questions. It had to be bored .40 over, new cam bearing, crank turned .10, new main bearings and rod bearings, valves, valve guides, seals and springs but I’m not finding the cam I’ve been told it needs. I was told a Melling CCA29 but it’s not made anymore. Just for kicks I checked Oreillys and they show it needs a Melling CCA1 which is of course different specs. I’m seen on this forum to use a cam out of a 261? If the valves are adjustable can I use the CCA1? Also what rear main seal do I need. Some say the fiber wick ones or does it need the neoprene since there’s more pressure. I’m replacing the 216 in my 49 3600. I appreciate any expertise on the subject. I’m sure I’ll have more questions as I go through this build! Thanks

56 was the first year for precision bearings and the neoprene rear main seal. So use the neoprene seal. As for the cam, send you original cam to Schneider Racing Cams in San Diego and they can regrind it from stock specs all the way to racing specs whatever you want. Why a regrind? Metallurgy. The original GM cams have excellent metallurgy and I think are better then a new cam if you can oven find one. New cam blanks have been near impossible to get for the last couple of years. Schneider is who I use for my 235 and 261 cam grinds.

Hydraulic lifters, find nos GM. Don’t mess around. The new lifters are terrible and have been for a good number of years now.

Skip the fiber gear. Use the aluminum cam gear steel
Crank gear set up. It’s the easier to set to find. Much more reliable.

The neoprene (people call it neoprene but it wasn't really that) rear main seal can be used in the 1956 235. I'd suggest measuring the diameter of the sealing part of your crankshaft. I would have no interest in the rope seal. Ideally a one-piece seal would be ideal but you would have to get your block machined to accept it...by a gentleman named Jerry who also lives in Tennessee. If it was straightened up and polished when your crank was reground you may need to install a "Speedi-Sleeve" to restore the sealing part. Pressure has nothing to do with the rear main seal. You should ideally have .001" clearance between your main bearings and your crankshaft. That will keep your crankshaft from moving up and down and also will limit the amount of oil that will run past the bearing and down to where the crankshaft end piece is. Centrif. force is what will sling it up the back side of your engine block.

As for the cam...hydraulic or solid lifters? There are some solid lifter cam choices for you and if you're using hydraulic lifters the best option in my opinion will be something like the stock GM cam for the 1959 235. Lower lift and lower duration force it to produce maximum torque at a lower rpm and keep that torque in a long level line.

Others will be along to offer some thoughts soon...

More likely bored .040 over with crank turned .010

Ditto on the Schneider regrind on your old cam. The Melling CCS-1 or the Elgin E-293S cams are both good, but they're almost impossible to find.
The E-293S is a duplicate of the 261 cam- - -the only difference is the clearance specifications. Bring me your stripped block with the main bearing caps on it and I'll be glad to machine it for the full circle seal. They're usually available on Ebay at a much better price than this supplier. I'm 5 miles from the Alabama state line, close to I-65.

www.motion.com/products/sku/01315653

www.ebay.com/itm/154260983108?

Jerry

Melling sent me an email about 6 weeks ago saying the CCS-1 has been made and I see where Rock Auto shows some in stock...but they keep raising the price on it. The CCS-6 (the more or less hydraulic lifter version of that cam) isn't available and they told me they don't know when it will be.

Don't scrap the 216, even if it's "worn out"- - - -I scavenge up every one I can and convert them into a 258 cubic inch engine with full pressure rod bearings and aluminum pistons. The finished product looks like an original 216- - - -just 40 cubic inches bigger on the inside.
Jerry

They’re not just solid they have a small hole in the side and a hole at the top where the pushrod sets. So hydraulic? I’ve built many small engines but learning on this one. I’m glad there’s a forum like this with you guys that’s done this before. Thanks!

Hydraulic lifters will have a small spring clip at the top, and a movable plunger inside a hollow body. Unless you can manage to find a set of "new old stock" lifters from the 1950's or 60's, RUN do not walk away from a hdrraulic cam. The current supply of lifters are made somewhere across the pond in slave labor sweratshops, and they fail at an astounding rate. It would be hard to give me a hydraulic cam for a stovebolt engine!
Jerry

So get the original cam resurfaced from Schneider and use solid lifters is that correct?

I’m sure it might vary a bit, but do you happen to know the approximate cost of a Schneider re/grind?

You should call Jerry Cantrell and ask him. The last time I talked to him (about 6 weeks ago) it was $175 and he told me he had about 30 to do for 235 engines.

Definitely. Schneider can put a solid lifter lobe on your present cam, as long as it doesn't have any flat lobes, and do just about any profile you want. I'd suggest a clone of the 261/Corvette solid lifter lobe or a duplicate of the Melling CCS-1. I really wish I'd gone ahead and pulled the trigger on the "as new" condition Storm Vulcan camshaft grinding machine that was for sale in Cleveland Ohio recently- - - -only $8K, cash and carry!
Jerry

Thank you!

CandoBrent, glad we could be of help here. BTW, you are now past moderation so you'll be able to send PMs. Next time you go to post, you'll see "Bolter" under your screen name.

Finding alot of good info in this thread. I am finally getting around to dragging my 56 truck 235 out and getting it going. Glad to see we have someone as knowledgeable as Hotrod Lincoln close to me (Bham area).

49fastback, that IS great to have HRL nearby enough. He's nearby right now and he and John just rolled into the driveway. They'll be unloading stuff from the Wrenchfest. Then they have some truck jockeying around, with a probably a visit to Calvin (the '27 1-ton) at the garage. He may get on the computer later today or in the morning. If you're looking for him, maybe PM for now would be the best way to reach him.

What part of Alabama? We have an Alabama Roll Call thread going maybe you'd like to sign in on. Alabama girl myself.

Peggy, Birmingham is about 100 miles south, straight down I-65. I'm just a bit above the Ala/Tenn state line a few miles from exit #6
Jerry

HRL, We've got you in the Alabama Roll Call thread. I'll add the additional mileage to that thread.