So I've been offline for a while, too much work too little play, and while I've been gone I seem to have lost my grip on the forums. I've got a question about one of my stovebolts, but this question is wrapped up in a 41 sedan. The VCCA chat site wants to charge me 90 bucks to ask my question, which has to do with the trannymount that rests on the crossbeam. It is 85 years old and none too healthy. I expect the answer to be tough to swallow, I might need to send my existing unit off across the big water for a process that includes "revulcanizing?" Local expertise is limited. Any wise words to be gleaned from the experienced folks here? I may need to reinstall the old unit just to get the car off the lift.
Karl
It may not be the easy way, but it is the Cowboy Way - Ranger Doug Beware of the stories you read or tell; subtly, at night, beneath the waters of consciousness, they are altering your world. - Ben Okri 1953 Chevy 3100 1960 Volvo PV 544 1941 Chevrolet Special Deluxe
It may not be the easy way, but it is the Cowboy Way - Ranger Doug Beware of the stories you read or tell; subtly, at night, beneath the waters of consciousness, they are altering your world. - Ben Okri 1953 Chevy 3100 1960 Volvo PV 544 1941 Chevrolet Special Deluxe
Karl, Glad to see you dropped back in and hopefully a fellow Bolter can offer some helpful information. Since your question is more related to the driveline, I've moved your post to the Driveline forum for further discussion and help.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Karl, no reason to spend a lot of money. It's just a piece of rubber. Does not even have to be in a "U" shape. Find a piece and sandwich/bolt it in between trans and metal bracket. Does not have to be vulcanized to the metal bracket does it? Also that "U" shape was used for many years beyond 1941. Not sure if dimensions are the same but maybe close enough. Cut rubber off of a transmission mount/motor mount. Plenty of rubber mounts used on Volvos
Example Shipping from USA is very high. Sweden now charging import VAT.....cut up a tire and use it. Any flat rubber piece. This is not high tech.
I'd suggest acquiring a retired truck tire and using a reciprocating saw to cut rectangular chunks out of the sidewall. Then use a couple of big C-clamps to squeeze the pieces together while you drill holes for the bolts. There will be enough rubber in one tire for several attempts if the first one isn't satisfactory. Vulcanizing everything together is nice, but it isn't totally necessary. I'd also suggest using a couple of small bolts and nuts to hold everything together while you install the mount, and remove them later if they cause unwanted vibrations Good luck! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
The VCCA chat site wants to charge me 90 bucks to ask my question, which has to do with the trannymount that rests on the crossbeam.
Karl
In my 20 years in the club I'm not aware of any charge to ask a question. I've never heard that allegation before. The only charges are for club membership (not required to post questions in the forums), registration fees for club sponsored tours and to purchase merchandise. What is your user name over there? Can you PM me with the details of your interaction? What message did you get? Who told you there's a charge? Who, what, when, where, how is what I need to know. Hopefully we can get to the bottom of what happened. Thanks.
Last edited by Tiny; 04/24/202412:06 AM.
Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet. The three main causes of blindness: Cataracts, Politics, Religion. Name your dog Naked so you can walk Naked in the park.
Thanks for the input. I had thought about fashioning my own rubber pad but I am backing off that idea now. One of the few things I have learned from experience is that most of my jerry-rigged repairs have not saved me time or expense in the long run. I used that first link from DL Brooks and ordered a mount from ebay. It'll take a few weeks to come. I have not used Ebay before, so that was a big step for me. Yes, it is spendy and there will be a hefty import tax but hopefully it will hold another 50 years.
It may not be the easy way, but it is the Cowboy Way - Ranger Doug Beware of the stories you read or tell; subtly, at night, beneath the waters of consciousness, they are altering your world. - Ben Okri 1953 Chevy 3100 1960 Volvo PV 544 1941 Chevrolet Special Deluxe
In the ‘States, many truck supply places carry rubber in 1” thick by 4” wide by length for grader blade applications, might work well in your application with a little ‘carving’. Not sure if available in southern(warm climate) states, might be best to check out your nearest HWY maintenance shop? Ed
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires. '47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle. '54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed. '55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
Yes, and a related question. Indirectly related. I had to break the "u-joint" which as with the truck requires removing a pair of caps, one from each side of the joint. Under the two bolts holding each cap was a sort of formed locking bracket for the bolt heads. And one of them is damaged. I local wrencher whose advice I listen to before I ignore it said to forget the bracket and use loctite, those brackets came from a time before we had thread locking compounds. I like using the original techniques, but I don't want to wait yet another month for some complicated lock washer. So what about using loctite on those threaded bolts? Reuse the damaged one? Make a new one? I don't want to start a new thread for this little question. It sure is a bother being so far from that American carpart market.
It may not be the easy way, but it is the Cowboy Way - Ranger Doug Beware of the stories you read or tell; subtly, at night, beneath the waters of consciousness, they are altering your world. - Ben Okri 1953 Chevy 3100 1960 Volvo PV 544 1941 Chevrolet Special Deluxe
The problem sometimes is the torque reqirement for the bolt is pretty low so as not to deform the caps and cause binding and failure. So lock washers are not used, not enough squeeze or tension or friction. Some specs are as low as 15 ft lbs. So these locking tab straps were used. Be sure to torque bolt per spec. Read up on phasing. I don't want to give an opinion about loktite's ability to lock with low torque or it's use near a "bearing" cap. It's probably OK, but I would make an effort to use locking tab straps.
That locking strap piece is easy to make. Cut out of a flat piece of metal, including tabs. Form over a ujoint cap strap or round stock and drill holes.
You/we have completed the tranny mount issue and we have a new ujoint subject. You should probably enter a new Ujoint post if this answer is not enough.
