The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Windshield Trim and Seal

54 GMC 152-24 Truck

Rained other day and I decided to look in truck to see where and if any leaks. darn, leaks galore, might as well as leave the windows open. I have no way to store truck indoors (no garage) and truck is at my work on a trailer so I can work on it when I have time, but has to be out of the shop during work hours.

What I would like to do is silicone or seal around the whole windshield temporary until sandblast the cab and paint it. My goal is to get it running and drivable so I can get a feel of the truck, then decide what to do after that. Keep stock or do upgrades?

Question is how can I remove the stainless trim around the window, read that the trim is installed on the rubber seal before the glass (sounds like fun), hate to silicone the SS trim and ruin it. Another thought I was thinking is use Gorilla Duct Tape, but worried the stickiness of the tape will mess up the trim.
I thought about just replacing the seal but the glass has a rock crack on the corner and didn't think it'll survive, hate to use new glass working on it in case I screw up somewhere and I'm sure the edges of the body needs work...

Or should I say screw it and do a total tear down like I wanted to do in the first place? Only issue is if I do that and later do any upgrades to the engine, trans, brakes, etc... My original plan was to keep it stock and build a new flatbed. I'm afraid to take on such a big project and have to keep moving things around from shop to house or wherever it's needed, instead of spending the time building it. And money...
I am focusing on the engine and wiring right now and wanted to see how the running 235 engine is, if it's bad like cracked or something, then I have a 383 V8 I can use which I'll be asking in another thread to do what needs to be done. And still have the original 248 engine which I really want to put back in, not sure why it was pulled.

Open to ideas, suggestions and encouragements.
Anyone in the Western ND area?
Watford City, ND

There are some big gaps in that weatherstrip. It will need to be replaced. Do you want to replace it on new paint, or paint up to the newly replaced weatherstrip? I was in the same dilemma. My build took years and I'm happy to have installed new weatherstrip on new paint. You could glop sealant into the gaps and around the perimeter of the windshield for now. The stainless trim should be able to be cleaned of adhesive in the future, it will be extra work.

Be careful with that stainless they don’t reproduce them .

I agree and have noticed a lot of parts are not replaceable. Just trying to make sure I am doing the right thing and get the truck back into it's original glory. Well, almost original.

My suggestion is to rework the pinchweld area (where the rubber sealing piece fits over) really well after you remove the windshield. You may have rust there and correcting it now will reduce problems later. JB Weld is a good choice for repair. I've seen some that needed quite a bit of work. Until then I think I'd just get some wide tape (duct tape, etc) and tape over the area to keep it from leaking too badly. You might even tape on some plastic sheeting. You won't be saving that windshield and acetone will clean any tape residue off of the stainless trim. You'll need to cut the windshield rubber to get it out. Way too brittle otherwise. I wouldn't worry about working with a new windshield. Usually you can use the rope method to install those without too much trouble. I wrote some notes on how I do this somewhere, but can't remember how long ago that was. Just be certain to install the new glass with a helper.

Saw a video on how to use the rope method of replacing the windshield and yes I will have my son help me. Figured the Gorilla Duct Tape would work well till I make it that far and when I redo the cab, I am doing everything. My goal is to get the truck running so I can get a feel of it. Thank You for the suggestions

The rope I use is something like 2.5mm in diameter...maybe 3/16 inch or so.

Some people start at the bottom and work up. I start at the top and work down. Just take your time. You may be surprised how fast you get the hang of this.

You will see some instructions to apply sealer first and then install the windshield. That may have been okay when 3M still made their non-hardening sealer (08509 I think was the part number). They stopped making that and all you can find today is stringy, sticky and really messy, so I would never apply that first. You'll get it everywhere.

I would install the windshield, adjust carefully in the bends/corners, let it sit for a week or so in the sun.

Then I'd get some high quality masking tape and carefully tape the cab right next to the weatherstrip and tape the weatherstrip edge also.

Then use a ball hook tool to pick up the weatherstrip (outside edge first) and on a cool morning use a caulking gun to squeeze it in the gap. Clean this up with mineral spirits or WD-40 (some people say it works well) and after it dries as much as it will (not a lot) then use some urethane sealer to seal the edge of the weatherstrip (outside where it meets the glass).

You'll probably need to use masking tape to hold the corners down to the glass while it sets but please understand you have to work quickly. That urethane stuff dries fast. I usually have my helper follow me around taping the rubber to the glass. When that dries completely (maybe 8 hours), remove the tape carefully and slowly starting with the tape that is on the weatherstrip.

Some people like to use silicone on the weatherstripping that goes between the cab and the rubber but it isn't my favorite. That stuff dries with a real high shore rating (hardness rating is what that really means) and these old cabs are known for flexing and twisting. I prefer something in there that can take a bit of movement.

Try DAP Draft Attack window weatherproof sealant, says it can be removed easily. Home Depot lists it.

I looked into that about a year ago. The company told me it was intended for seasonal use only and not intended for permanent nor long term use. So I was left with the idea it wouldn't be good for auto use. Do you know anything different about it?

I am looking into a product called Big Stretch, but the company has not responded to my questions yet. I've used it for house repairs and it is excellent for that. I just don't know if it will hold up to the temperatures we get in the south. The black color is more costly.

I got some C.R. Laurence CRL7708 CRL Windshield and Body Sealant from Amazon. It has worked well for me, although I haven't had it out in the weather yet. It was recommended as a replacement for the 3M 08509 by someone here on Stovebolt.

Kevin there are two Laurence numbers for non-hardening windshield sealant. 7708 and 7711. 7711 is supposed to dry to the consistency of butyl tape...friends working in body shops say it sets up slightly better but they add it is not at all like the 3M product was and they would prefer not to use either.

If you've used 7708 successfully I would really like to hear about it. Especially if you have had it out in hot sun. That is where it fails here in Texas. From what I've heard it won't stay put in the heat of summer, runs out of the seam and attracts dirt/dust badly.

Soon I'm going to send 3M a letter asking if they would make a run of the 08059 product for me, not branded as 3M and let me assume all liability.

Jon, Like I said, I haven't even had the cab outside yet, but hot sun is something we don't see a lot of up here. I did have a soda can blow up once when I left it on top of the dash of my DD truck. Kind of a mess.

I'll be sure and update the group on how the 7708 performs.

As far as getting 3M to make you a generic version of their 08059 stuff --- good luck with that.

Yes, I don't think there is much chance they'll make it for me, but one never knows. I know I could sell about as much as I could get my hands on. I'll be very curious about the 7708

Jon G, I haven't used the DAP window sealant, I only suggested it 'cuz of the claim of easy removal. If you want something tough as nails but still a little flexible and will hold up to sun, cold, etc, try urethane roofing caulk/sealer in black.

I decided to use White Lightening All Weather Construction Sealant around the windshield and was careful to not get it on the SS trim. When it comes time to replace the windshield, I'll have that area cleaned up to do it right. Going to get the door and rear window seals and seal them as there is no trim on it, glass is good. Then move onto the engine/trans and go from there. Never enough time to do anything, need to get the grandkids involved, LOL... They spend way too much time behind some sort of electronic device.

RP14,
I agree! Get them interested & Involved...
They may fall in love with working or Tinkering on trucks!
Need to light that fire..
Todd