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#1544160 04/16/2024 2:23 PM
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 68
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 68
Good day everyone, I was warming up my truck this morning, it a 1950 3100 with a 235ci and it died on me, and I could not get it to restart. It was running just fine then died out of the blue and it would not restart. So, I sprayed some started fluid in the card and nothing, then I poured some gas in carb and also nothing. Therefore, I believe it may be an ignition problem and not a fuel problem, it should have at least ran for a second on the starter fluid. For the last couple of day when I am accelerating it has been missing. I have not been able to figure it out, but it seems the problems are most likely connected. My first thought is it may be the coil, but I am not really sure the best way to check the coil. Does anyone have any trouble shooting suggestions, thanks in advance. Also, I should add I have an electronic distributor, so the points are not the issue.

Last edited by Peggy M; 04/21/2024 6:41 PM.

Mike
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 5,833
Gearhead, Stovebolt Tech and Parts Tracker, Mod for Swap Meet and GTT
Gearhead, Stovebolt Tech and Parts Tracker, Mod for Swap Meet and GTT
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 5,833
Mike, Since your post is directly engine related, it's been moved over to the Engine Shop for further conversation and help from fellow Bolters. I am sure others will be along shortly! wink


~ Dan
1951 Chevy 3 window 3100
Follow this story in the DITY Gallery
"My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine"
1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver)
US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,774
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Check to see if the distributor is turning. A stripped timing gear stops an engine dead in its tracks. Remove the distributor cap, have someone crank the engine (out of gear, obviously) and see if the rotor is turning. While the cap is off, check on the condition of the points and see if they're opening and closing properly. They should be clean and not discolored. If all that checks out, come back for more diagnostic checks, looking for high and low voltage at all the right places. Good luck!
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Joined: Jan 2002
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C
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Exactly as what Jerry is recommending. Then get back to us with what you find. What year is the 235?


Craig

My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear
My truck ....... Respect The Rust
If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
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M
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Unsure of the year of the 235, sorry.


Mike
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Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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"Electronic distributor"- - - - -which one? There are two types of Pertronix units- - - - -the ones that have failed, and those that will fail soon. RUN- - - -do not walk away from those things!
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 430
H
'Bolter
'Bolter
H Offline
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and another simple check. Make sure its getting power (the distributor) and not simple some blown fuse some where.

Joined: Mar 2005
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5
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 627
Hotrod gave me the same advice. I have a new 6v pertronix if anyone wants it.


Mike Barnes
1950 GMC 1-ton pickup
Joined: May 2005
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B
Sir Searchalot
Sir Searchalot
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Take out a spark plug, leave the wire on it, let the threads/metal body touch bare metal. Crank motor and see if there is spark jumping. Do it in a dark place to be very sure you can see the spark or not. Report back. Don't change anything before you do that.


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
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M
'Bolter
'Bolter
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So, I got home from work, I checked to see if power was getting to the coil with a test light, and it was. Then I pulled a spark plug to see it was getting spark and the thing started no problem, event though I had a spark plug out. I also made sure the rotor was turning in the distributor, it obviously was. So, here are the facts: 1. died this morning a would not start again, 2. Got home it started right up, 3. coil is getting power 4. it has been missing when I have been accelerating the last couple days. It seems to me that if ignition is the problem and I think it is, it must be between the coil and the spark plug. Does anyone have any further, trouble shooting suggestions, such as how can I test the coil and the distributor?


Mike
Joined: Oct 2021
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O
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Points and condenser are prime suspects.


1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
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5
Renaissance Man
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Dude doesn't have points or condenser. "Electronic distributor."

Not knowing what he has exactly makes troubleshooting his electronic ignition impossible from here, and next to impossible even if we knew what he has.
I would recommend going back to points. If that works, he'll know what's wrong. I am not big on throwing parts at problems, but throwing original parts back in seems like a good idea to me.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Not enough information- - - -like what brand of "electronic ignition" you''re running. In 65+ years of making a living fixing cars, building very competitive racing engines, and 30+ years teaching at the high school and state trade school level, I've seen less than a dozen faulty coils. Three of them overheated from somebody leaving the ignition switch on for hours, and boiled the insulation oil out. Give us enough information to work with, and somebody will be able to help you figure out what's going on. On a scale of 1 to 10, I'd rank the coil as the source of the problem at about a minus three!
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 6,770
O
'Bolter
'Bolter
O Offline
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 6,770
Sorry - missed that. Yes, I agree with reinstalling points to rule out the Pertronix or whatever, or to condemn it.


1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 68
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
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Posts: 68
I figured it out, it had too much fuel pressure, so it was flooding the engine. I put on a regulator and problem solved, thanks for the help everyone.


Mike

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