The Stovebolt Site Forums Project Journals Project Journals 1958 Chevy Apache 1/2 Ton Panel Truck

Thought I'd start this thread . You guys have been so helpful.

Project truck that was just barely a candidate, but somebody has to restore these old trucks. I know you guys understand. This one is a tank and has not run since 1979. Formerly a Wisconsin Remodeling truck. I have done alot so far. 235 is at the shop now, I have the body on a cart and the windshield is out.

I`ll have replace both pillars, step, front floor pan, hood front fenders etc. and about 2/3 the trucks front body. Floor is in decent shape as is the back inside metal. Frame is done and waiting on the rebuilt 235.

Lotsa work to do

235 is going to stay. Being rebuilt. Bottoms of both doors.
I have everything form the pillars down.

Guitplayer,

This looks like a great project. Check your PMs, I've sent you some information regarding the the Project Journal forum.

Good luck!

From the picture in your garage this isn't your fist project. I'm about to start all the sheet metal work on my 59', looking at yours gives me hope. You have a big project, best of luck. I'll be following along.

This 58 is my 1st "off frame" restoration and my 2nd Chevy.
Ford F-100`s 1963,back in the late 90s prior. I Always wanted an Apache, so 25 years later, I have one. Luckily a veteran welder of 30 years retired from Oshkosh defense corp, that come warm up
In April or so, I`ll be able to get his expertise advise. he has no body /panel past, but thats Ok. I`ll be replacing everything south of and including Front Roof Filler Panel Brace.

The ugly truth. Not sure how to go at it other than
start at the top.

Sun was out today. Took some progress pics of frame.
3 new leaf springs. Rear buckets. Tank straps.
Wheeled into the storage for the winter.

Luckily the old single aircraft hanger can hold the body , frame , boat
and my other GMC truck

My plan is to ...get the engine , transmission , disc brakes, etc.done before putting the body back on. I will need to fix both pillars and floor pans. All points of body frame mounts.

So far I can find no one near me that wants to do any body work. I am not confident enough to start to learn how to weld on this truck. Pretty sure I‘d mess something up. Is there any
help in Wisconsin?

I hope to use my 700R4 trans with it.

To add the 58 panel. Happy to have an engine in.
The frame is in great shape. New cab floor.
Need those "A" pillars in.

Here is the thread on the engine going in the 58 panel.
https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/1515224.html#Post1515224

The 58 panel I mocked up the fenders after getting both pillars dissected.
I have one pillar in but just temporary. Inner fenders had to be moved up so the fender ends match the cowl.
Doors will be mocked in as well before any permanent fixture.

Front brake time in the 1958. Rears are done.
From this to where I am today.
Both sets of bearings look good.

An adjustable bungy cord helps keep this together once you get
star adjuster and spring installed.

Neat idea!

A large diameter flexible duct zip tie works too (but only once - haha).

Yeah, once I had this set snug with it, I could easily do the other side.
Nice when doing 4. I was using one with hooks.
The hooks would ride off the pad. This one with the grabber works good.

That is a great idea. I usually just fumble around with the shoes flopping.

I did my share of fumbling around too.
You can lay the shoes on a bench and set this up . The top
part will gently kinda match up and you can put it on the inner wheel/axle(IDK what thats called).
Itll stay together while you put the pins and upper springs on.

Should I adjust the shoes on a raised rolling tire before I bleed the lines?

I would adjust first but I am not sure that it matters. If you do not adjust first the shoes need to travel further before the system tries to build pressure that is used to push the air out. that can be a problem if there is more travel required than the system is capable of producing.

Brake related I can add. On my 58 Apache we recently put a edelbrock carb on instead of the double holley. Pulled vaccum from the same place on both carbs but the brakes acted real sensitive. So I removed the line and plugged the port. Brakes there but just slightly harder to push down than drum brakes all around. So today I put a restrictor of sorts, a foot and half length of rubber hose that fit inside the 3/8 ID hose I was using. That worked!!

Before it felt like the brakes were being applied without the brake light coming on. It was that sudden.

Here is the mod to the shifter. The handle is already moved over but too low.
This raises it up and 3 speed shifts nicely.
To this from that.

The 235 installed. Runs great. UPDATE!

For those familiar with the 3 speed overdrive transmission (warner)
I have the transmission in and everything shifts fine and all.
I had in my other 1958 and at that time , instead of the solenoid kicking in the OD at 45mph,
it has a manual cable that engages the OD. Do you know if that can be
engaged or disengaged while at driving speed or does it have to be stopped?
I was scared to try it while driving in my other 58 . With the OD engaged ,the wheels move free in gear.
So with the truck off, you cannot rely it to stay put with it in gear.

First: I am no OD expert.

The electric OD will engage at speed, so I would guess the manual OD could also be engaged at speed.

If I remember correctly, you were supposed to let off the throttle when you engaged the electric OD. Again, I'd do that with the cable operated model.

That makes sense. thanks!!

If anyone is curious, the skid strips once tighten down
locked together as the blades from the strips went down into the wood.
So no need to cut the channels.

I put this here instead of the 1957 235 thread. I just woke this engine up day before yesterday and since then
it has cranked very easily. I wanted to film how that is. Its amazing to me. It has sat for 3 months at least.
Drained of fuel. Its COLD and sat overnight. I have a Jon G carburetor on there. The engine has some adjustments and some things to look at but
that engine wants to work. www.youtube.com/watch?v=rhAABFK79MI

Jon H is carbking. Did you get your Jon's mixed up?

Nope Jon G sold me his. Moderator electrical bay. At the time.

My 1000th post!!! Wow, thanks for all the help. Could not have done it
without you guys. Big accomplishment for me to get this engine cleaned
installed correctly and moving under its own power. By myself , limited tools and knowledge. video. One crank inside and throttle with foot accelerator.
.. One thing of note ...there is not any exhaust smoke coming from
the back. Sound good?
www.youtube.com/watch?v=5EO3YI99OX8

Drove the 58 out today. Brakes are there, just have to pump them.
I should have some days soon to be able to try and learn to weld.
I have tank and welder ready.

I am not getting any oil out of this lower port to be able to monitor oil pressure.
What would cause that? Its not clogged. I took out the hard line and cleared. No obstructions.
Inside the block is clean too.

Looking back, originally it was at the rear port.

I am guessing I am on my own here lately.

Sorry, I am not familiar with the oil passages on the engine but you may get more response from a post on this specific issue in the engine section.

Your not alone in here. Was meaning to respond yesterday but family stuff got in the way. If you check out this Oil filter line diagram from our Oil Filter Tech Tip you can see the forward port location is meant for the oil return line connection from the filter. It would be blocked off if yours doesn't have a filter installed. The rear port is the one where your oil pressure gauge was and needs to be connected. If you install a filter, it will need an adapter to allow for the oil filter pressure feed line to the canister in addition to a port for your pressure gauge line. Hope this helps.

BTW - I enjoyed seeing your short videoshort videos in the GTT forum!

Thanks Dan! Yes I found oil pressure at the rear port. It where the canister had its inlet. The one I had it in is a drain. Then discovered a leak at the gauge. Behind the brass fitting.
That I have never seen before but its a new gauge from overseas. Where I have the throttle linkage return spring , was right in the
way. Don`t want to bend it too many times. Still did and needed to get a single ferule from town.
Yeah, I am geeking out with the dash cam. Not to tech savvy here or music. Like it the old way.
So thats kinda neat and new for me.

A productive day today. Finished up the 2 inch exhaust with elbows to avoid the
pumpkin area. In between that and the shock bracket.
Walker exhaust(elbows 2ft straights and flange) with Smithy muffler. Less than $150. I found the Smithys for $62.
But the big thing for me is that I got that electric welder working good and pieced it all together. Cost me a few tips.
But I was gonna make it work for me.
Wrapped the pipe there at the bend to prevent the wood from getting too hot or worse. Checked for leaks.
I had to disassemble it once , fixed a few leaks. I`ll use three hangers.