The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 38 push rod original 216.

While fixing a leaking valve cover I noticed that one of the push rods is bent a little. When you spin it around it hits the valve cover gasket. It's the 3rd one back from front of motor. What are my options to fix? I don't figure I should run it like that. Thanks,Grady.

Replace it- - - -once a pushrod bends, it's very unlikely you'll ever be able to straighten it. If you want to try straightening, find a piece of plate glass just wide enough for both ends of the rod to hang off the edges, roll it over the glass, and gently tweak the rod until it rolls true. Pack a lunch- - - -you'll be there a while!

Then fix the sticky valve guide that caused the bend in the first place.
Jerry

I have a stash of push rods from another 216 that I can see if they are same length. Need to figure out why it bent. Then it's figuring out how to adjust the valves. Will i have to pull the side cover or can it be removed from top?Thanks

You can push the rocker arm to the side against the spring and lift the pushrod out of the top. Shake it sideways a little as you lift to avoid pulling the lifter out of its bore. The most common cause of pushrods bending is varnish from stale gasoline causing valves to stick in their guides.
Jerry

Ok I'll give it a try after lunch.

When you pull the cylinder head to do a valve job you can check all the pushrods for straightness, and free up all the valve guides. If you try to do a half-donkey patch job you'll probably bend some more pushrods soon. The bent pushrod is a symptom of bigger troubles to come, not the main problem.
Jerry

Got it out. It's just a little bent. The ones i have are too short. Also where the rod goes into the rocker arm ball end, it clicks in? The rod is nicked up. That should be a smooth fit, correct? Tried to send picture but won't load right now.

Just had to go outside.

That pushrod is junk. What is the condition of the ball on the adjusting screw of the rocker arm? It should be smooth and evenly rounded, not with a tit projecting from the center of the ball. Worn adjusters with a projection in the center cause the ball to bind in the pushrod cup and crack the edges of the cup, or create damage such as you have on that one. I've seen the shorter pushrod used temporarily by putting the adjusting screw lock nut on the underside of the rocker arm. That allows the adjuster to be turned down an extra 1/4 inch or so to compensate for the shorter pushrod. It's a shade tree fix, but it works.
Jerry

The push rods I have are probably an inch shorter than that one.ill check the adjustment ball to see how it looks.i have 2 othe heads in the building to see if those adjustment balls are the same and in better shape.

Problem now is where to find the 12 7/8 inch push rod?

GradyB, The Filling Station sells the correct length 1937-39 12-7/8" Pushrods if your looking for new. If you want to see if any fellow Bolter may be able to help out, put an ad up in the Truck Parts Wanted forum in the Swap Meet.

Put an ad up on this site. The price is scary if I need more than one, which is possible. See what comes from the ad first.
Are the adjustment balls the same from newer engines, like '50s Stovebolts?

Yes, the adjusters span several years of production. The adjuster thread is 7/16-20, and jam nuts for them are available in bulk on Ebay. Check the Smith Brothers company website "pushrods.net" for a source for new adjusters. I bought several of them there recently. It is a very simple job to fabricate pushrods from stainless steel tubing that is stronger and more durable than the original part by simply cutting the ends off any stovebolt pushrod, regardless of length, and pressing those ends into the tubing. There is no reason whatsoever to pay the outrageous prices the resto-ripoff places want for scarce parts such as those pushrods. Send me a PM for a more specific conversation about the procedure if you like. I made my own pushrods for racing engines for many years, ones that ran at several times the speed and power output of a stovebolt six.

Here's enough tubing to make six pushrods:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/334006272037?

Jerry

I have 2 other heads I can get adjustment balls from if they are in good shape. That would work, wouldn't it?

What holds the ends in the tube? Would they need to be welded or soldered in some how?

As long as they fit the thread in the rocker arm and are in good condition, no problem. I just have a thing about getting robbed by companies who think they have the market cornered on parts for anything. Jesse James had to use a gun to steal from people!

I cut the ends off the original pushrods about 1/2" to 3/4" long, grind a slight taper on the shank to help it center in the tubing, and use a hammer and a brass drift to tap them into the tubing. I make a holding fixture from two pieces of square key stock bolted together with a hole drilled between them to clamp the tubing into and support that in a vise. Since the rod is in a "push" situation, no welding or soldering is required. It's the same way millions of tubular pushrods for all sorts of engines have been made for over a century.
Jerry

Isn't that the truth! It's not only the prices but the quality.

Is there any concern about stronger pushrods damaging something more expensive/harder to address?

It seems like someone has an issue with sticky valve guides bending a pushrod every month or two. If the pushrod is not the weak point, will a stuck guide damage the valve or rocker arm instead?

That's why I strongly suggested doing a valve job at the beginning of this post. It's impossible to solve a problem by making one link of a weak chain stronger.
Jerry

Attached is picture of the adjusters from the other head I have and the one that is from the 38 engine. The one with the flat looking top is the one from the 38. The other 3 don't have that flat spot? I'm going to look at the othe ones in a few days as I'm also working on getting the new springs in the 49. One more part to come yet. Supposed to be tomorrow. The 3rd picture is the bottom of the bad pushrod.

Better call Joe Gibbs for some pointers.

Ok, 49 project finished now back to 38. Found push rods on internet that are correct length. They look different than the one that was bent. See attached pictures. They came with complete rocker assembly. Can just this one be changed or should I change all 12?

Second picture isn't right.

See the picture ...