I've used metal band saws, hack saws, grinding wheels, snippers, shears, cut off wheels and a torch to cut sheet steel to 1/2 inch thick metal. Sometimes it takes forever. Have any of you folks used plasma cutters? What would you recommend? Would be like my other methods, wouldn't be used frequently but on the occasion that it is needed. I would like to find one that is affordable.
I bought a plasma cutter a while back off Amazon and have used it rarely. I think I paid a little over $100 for it and had it shipped for free to a place in the lower 48 for free and had a friend bring it up to me. It's what's referred to as a "Cut50" supposedly rated for 1/2" thick steel. I used it to cut up a frame of ~1/8" wall square tubing to modify into an engine stand. You need a decently powerful air compressor to run it, so you have to set up the compressor and the plasma cutter to get it to work. AND the air needs to be DRY or the arc will sputter and you'll get a bad cut. So for me, another cutting method is usually quicker. A cutoff wheel is usually my go-to on thin stuff and a torch for thicker metal. And you need 220V power for thicker stuff. Also a pilot arc style works better for starting the arc. Looks like Amazon has them for $150 for the non-pilot arc, and up from there for the ones with more features. The one I got was built in China and the instruction book includes a caution against using it in a "dropping environment." I assume that means don't use it in the rain.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
A couple years ago I bought a cheap 120 volt plasma cutter. Don’t do that! It works ok for thin material like 1/16 and less, but anything much thicker it will kick a 20 amp breaker pretty quick. 15 amp even faster. Only used it a couple times since I bought it and most of that was just playing with it. I can see if you did a lot of body work or metal art, that it could be real handy. I’m interested in what others think.
Don
1967 GMC 9500 Fire Ladder Truck "The Flag Pole" In the Stovebolt Gallery '46 2-Ton grain truck | '50 2-ton flatbed | '54 Pontiac Straight Eight | '54 Plymouth Belvidere | '70 American LaFrance pumper fire truck | '76 Triumph TR-6 Of all the things I've lost in my life, I miss my mind the most!
What Don said about 120V only units. I first tried mine on 120V (it was dual voltage) and quickly connected it to my 220 outlet. I've been thinking about doing some metal art cutouts, but that's as far as I've gotten - thinking.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
They are not usually "needed" to restore or refurbish an old truck. But we all have things we didn't "need". We can not reveal that to "she who must be obeyed". An angle grinder, die grinders, burrs , needlers,, drill press can handle the average work we do. If you have projects/hobbies that need thick plate cut in fancy shapes, a plasma cutter is perfect. They ARE pricey. As said, you want dual voltage and you want pilot arc/no touch. You will need a good air compressor.
The third world cuts thick metal with an arc welder.
As always "you get what you pay for". The school where I taught welding back in the early 20-teens, along with a few other technical subjects, had a professional-grade machine and the air pressure and volume to support it. DRY air is a must, and plenty of it. When it was working properly, it could cut a clean 1/16" kerf through 1/2" steel plate with no problem. It also worked well on aluminum. It also cost several thousand dollars. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Since acquiring the upright bandsaw, the plasma machines get used rarely. The bandsaw will leave you with a cleaner, ready to weld or finish cut, where the plasma requires clean up. If you are cutting through 1/2 material, you'll need to pull the nozzle slowly so you don't push the flame (and cut) sideways. Which then requires even more clean up. Plasma and thick paint don't get along. Plasma's like cleaner metal to cut.
I have a dual voltage “accurate tool” 50amp machine. Its a china machine for sure but most people have good luck with them and mine works AWESOME! I run it on 220 and just crank it all the way up because you cant have too much amperage while cutting no matter how thick. I have a vintage craftsman 20 gallon compressor that runs it fine. Everytime I use it i say “this is one of my favorite tools ever!” Its amazing how fast and how clean you can cut. Ive been using a “death” wheel forever and they are fine but the plasma just runs right through work. Its literally like cutting paper with scissors. It’s ridiculously handy.
I just saw this thread. I just purchased a well reviewed plasma cutter. I have only experimented. I have spent less than one minute testing how well it cuts and I think I have a lot to learn. I’m not ready to give it a good review or a bad review. I am pleased with the package contents, and how easy it was to set up. I did see one very positive YouTube review by an independent shop. Here is my video about the machine, and I will post another video once I figure out how to properly use it. I need to play around with the air pressure settings and voltage settings. MY VIDEO OPENING THE BOX
Hopefully it’s running on 220 but just turn that amperage all the way up and let it eat. There is literally no reason to turn it down. Its not like a welder. Hold the tip flat and just drag it across the work. Mine dosent even leave any slag usually. Its amazing how fast you can cut a perfect straight line in like 1/4” plate. I just clamp a piece of angle iron to the work and drag right down it.
You have a steady hand Jay! The second picture is the way my straight cuts look.
Don
1967 GMC 9500 Fire Ladder Truck "The Flag Pole" In the Stovebolt Gallery '46 2-Ton grain truck | '50 2-ton flatbed | '54 Pontiac Straight Eight | '54 Plymouth Belvidere | '70 American LaFrance pumper fire truck | '76 Triumph TR-6 Of all the things I've lost in my life, I miss my mind the most!
Since acquiring the upright bandsaw, the plasma machines get used rarely. The bandsaw will leave you with a cleaner, ready to weld or finish cut, where the plasma requires clean up . . . . . . .
THIS is why I bought the plasma cutter. Band saw can’t do this . . . Probably. I was able to cut the wonky crossmember out of this 34 Chevy coupe frame in 30 minutes including setup time.
Lugnutz, is that a Corvette rear suspension setup?
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Whatr is/was the theory behind that asymmetrical bracing design?
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Whatr is/was the theory behind that asymmetrical bracing design?
It looks to me like it was a home built setup to brace the C4 differential housing.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Ok. That makes more sense than GM building it that way.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Are you removing the Corvette suspension and going back to leafs?
Yes. The C4 Corvette rear axle was not installed with enough clearance for proper travel. I’ll sell it and install a straight axle with leaf springs or maybe something like this setup. The front suspension is a Mustang 2 setup which was not installed properly and will be changed to a spring over solid 4” drop axle with hairpins or 4 link. Video link.