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#1541086 03/20/2024 8:45 PM
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 338
O
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 338
Anyone know if it would hurt anything to heat the star adjuster on my ‘52 Huck brakes? I’m replacing everything with new and only one of the adjusters will turn. All I’ve tried was brute force and PB Blaster.


1954 Chevy custom 261CID, T-5 5 Speed.
1952 Chevy 6400 2 ton hydraulic flat bed.
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,041
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,041
Just guessing here, but I think the adjusters are part of the brake cylinders, and if you use heat it may mess up the seals in the cylinders. But if you're replacing the cylinders, then use whatever method necessary to get the adjusters off. Or do replacement wheel cylinders come with adjusters? ohwell


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Jun 2016
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 338
The adjusters are mounted to a plate in the wheel, not a part of the wheel cylinder.


1954 Chevy custom 261CID, T-5 5 Speed.
1952 Chevy 6400 2 ton hydraulic flat bed.
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,041
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,041
More info is needed. I'm assuming now that you're talking about your rear brakes on the 2-ton, which do have adjusters separate from the wheel cylinders, but your front brakes would be single cylinders with adjusters on the ends of the cylinders. I found the picture in the service manual showing a picture of the rear brake assembly with the separate adjusters. Here's a Link to Figure 3 in the 47-51 Truck Shop Manual. The '52 supplement has essentially the same figure of the 2-ton rear brakes only bigger, so your '51 should be the same.

So, I'd say heat away. I'd use PB blaster and heat alternately to free up the threads on the adjusters.

BTW, from looking at the manual, it looks like your 2-ton has Huck brakes and the rear brakes are called "Twinplex" which were manufactured by Bendix. HERE is a website I found detailing those.

HERE is a link to the adjustment procedure, with a clearer picture of what you're dealing with (Fig. 26)

Last edited by klhansen; 03/21/2024 6:57 PM. Reason: added more info

Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 338
O
'Bolter
'Bolter
O Offline
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 338
Amazing! Thanks for the help.


1954 Chevy custom 261CID, T-5 5 Speed.
1952 Chevy 6400 2 ton hydraulic flat bed.

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