Looking for ideas of where to locate a battery disconnect switch. Thought about in the kick panel that sticks up under the seat. Facing towards the floor shifter. Kind of concerned about sparks near the tank which is still in the cab. The red part is a key that is removed when the switch is off. Thanks for any ideas
Last edited by Peggy M; 03/20/20244:32 PM. Reason: added more info to the title
Jeff 1964 Chevrolet K10 Fleetside "A Kid's First Truck" Follow in the DITY 1951 Chevrolet 3100 Follow his build in the Project Journals 1969 Chevrolet Camaro Convertible | 2020 Chevrolet Silverado | 3500 Duramax | 2021 GMC Sierra Denali USAF Veteran 1983-1987 | PSP retired 1990- 2012
It is in the stock location on the right hand frame rail under the cab.
Jeff 1964 Chevrolet K10 Fleetside "A Kid's First Truck" Follow in the DITY 1951 Chevrolet 3100 Follow his build in the Project Journals 1969 Chevrolet Camaro Convertible | 2020 Chevrolet Silverado | 3500 Duramax | 2021 GMC Sierra Denali USAF Veteran 1983-1987 | PSP retired 1990- 2012
I connected mine directly to the ground terminal on the battery. (Green knob disconnect type)
I did this as well. In a floor mount battery. It’s just my custom to disconnect each time I put the truck away. I don’t have high levels of trust in the wiring and this works fine for my needs.
I suspect the OP is looking for a more convenient option. Perhaps as much for anti-theft as for fire prevention.
Personally, I don’t see what is wrong with the OPs seat mount idea. As long as it’s wired carefully and cables are protected from abrasion….I wouldn’t think sparks would be a risk.
Good luck with that disconnect switch- - - -it only has about one fourth the current capacity necessary for carrying full starter cranking current. It will burn out quickly, or at least result in low cranking speed and poor starting. You need a 500 amp minimum capacity, and one with a 1K amp surge capacity is better.
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
I might have to agree with Jerry. The terminals on that switch look a little small. But not knowing the specifications on Crummy's switch, it might work just fine. The biggest issue with switches (or relays) and their rating is the ability to disconnect with power across them, which isn't really an issue with a battery disconnect as you wouldn't normally disconnect with the starter engaged. But it's something that needs to be paid attention to. [on edit] looks like hcb3200 got there first with the correct info. Another thing to point out is to be sure to provide some protection for the cables where they go through the sheet metal of the floor. Use a grommet or a nice thick sleeve around the cables - especially if you're bringing the positive cable thru the switch. Doesn't matter quite as much on the ground cable, but still good practice.
Last edited by klhansen; 03/20/20246:56 PM.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Anyone have any luck with this remote style of battery disconnect or simular? No holes to drill just attach it to the neg post of the battery. This one says that it is rated for 240 amps continuous and 1200amp peak.
Gimmicks like that are known as a P.T. Barnum Special- - - - -"There's one born every minute!" Can you imagine having to remove that one wnen it fails late at night in sub-zero weather? Or even if the battery in the remote goes dead at an inopportune time? Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
I will take Jerrys advise. I may try to see if my local NAPA has something similar. Not many Oreilly's in my neck of the Woods. If NAPA can't help me then I will order online from Oreilly's. And yes, I am looking for something discreet and easily accessible mostly for anti theft purposes and or to disconnect when in storage. My plan is to drive this often and sometimes out of the area with over night stays. So a disconnect with give me a little piece of mind. What about under the seat in the kick panel for placing it? I will also look at catalog from my Jayco dealer. Just remembered my camper has a large battery disconnect in it.
Jeff 1964 Chevrolet K10 Fleetside "A Kid's First Truck" Follow in the DITY 1951 Chevrolet 3100 Follow his build in the Project Journals 1969 Chevrolet Camaro Convertible | 2020 Chevrolet Silverado | 3500 Duramax | 2021 GMC Sierra Denali USAF Veteran 1983-1987 | PSP retired 1990- 2012
Another option is a heavy duty relay that's energized by a small toggle switch when you want to run the truck. The downside is the relay would need to be heavy duty enough to stay energized while driving, and the control switch would need to always be energized (and fused.) You could put the toggle switch in a concealed location under the dash and the relay on the frame near the battery.
Or if you aren't too worried about battery discharge, and just want added security, you could intercept the power feed to the ignition switch with a concealed switch. It would still crank from the stomp starter, but wouldn't start or run.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
A quick way to make the switch I recommended a little more difficult to operate for anti theft purposes is to simply remove the handle. It's a slip fit over the shaft, retained by a screw. Just flip the switch to the "off" position, lift the handle off the shaft, and put it into your pocket. Without the retainer screw, it's a field-expedient "key". A potential car thief would have to have pliers or a vise grip handy to turn the shaft, after locating the cutoff.
Here's an Ebay ad for a NASCAR certified 300/1000 amp switch- - - -same one we used on the round track race cars we built.
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Cole Hersee has been our fleet standard for as long as I've worked at the company. Maybe even longer. I'm working on my 40th year.
Better than removing the handle as Jerry suggested, would be to get the keyed version. We used to call them "Cat" keys because they were on all of our yellow fleet and most of that equipment stayed out in the field. Can't remember any of our machines being stolen, vandalized, yes. But not stolen. Neat little duck bill shape.
Maybe place up on the inner fender where you would need to reach up over the tire assembly to operate. If it ain't easy for you, it won't be easy for the thief!
