The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop engine issues after its long sleep

Otto,

It was white smoke. Smelled like very strong exhaust smell.

Keep note of the water level in the rad.

Fix the clogged exhaust system.
Jerry

Did you have any MMO or Seafoam in the cylinders soaking prior to waking Rip Van Winkel? That stuff creates clouds of white smoke but would do it as soon as it starts running.

I'll definitely watch the water level in the radiator. The exhaust is new from the headers out, however, the pipes did sit in the garage for about a year before I installed them. Should I disassemble them or goose the engine more to see if it clears? I wasn't watching the tach when pulling the truck back into the garage, but I certainly revved it pretty good.... Bottom line, should I keep running it, as is, to see the outcome or make a particular maintenance action first?

You can do a pressure test of the cooling system to see if there is a leak path letting coolant into the exhaust.

When running the engine try to determine if the exhaust flow out the tailpipe changes with engine rpm. If the flow out doesn't go up with rpms you probably have a restriction somewhere.

Depending on how long you ran the engine some white smoke on initial running is not that unussual. There are a lot of things that get burned off as the engine warms up and a lot of them have contents that will create white smoke. As long as the coolant and oil levels remain at acceptable levels run it and see how things change with run time.

Mouse nest in the exhaust pipe?

Next time you see clouds of white smoke like the video shows, pull the dipstick when you shut it down and check the color of your oil. Is it clear or slightly milky?

Jethro,

I have checked the dipstick. There is no indication of water in the oil. The oil is perfectly clear right now.

That's really hard to tell from the video because it was taken so far away from the truck. It looked like the smoke dissipated quickly which leads me to believe that it's water/coolant in the cylinders and not oil.

Can you take another video closer to the truck with closeups of the smoke exiting the tailpipe.

Is there any black soot spatter from the tailpipe?

Connect a vacuum gaube on the port that's usually used to supply vacuum to the windshield wioers- - - -full manifold vacuum, not ported. Run the engine at a constant steady speed, maybe 1500-2K RPM. If the vacuum drops steadily and the engine loses power or stalls after running for a time, there's an exhaust restriction. Find it and fix it.
Jerry

Otto,

I'll take another video.

Jerry,

I'll do as you suggest and report back.

Likely sometime this weekend for both.

Stuck rings?? Compression check?

I'll use this gauge at the port in the intake manifold shown in the 2nd pic.

The next time you check the oil level with the engine cold, look closely at the very top of the dipstick, also check the underside of the oil fill cap, those areas will be the spots where condensation will form if there is water in the oil. It's best to check that on a cool morning after the truck has been sitting overnight.

78,

I'll do that!

Status update:

cold engine vacuum gage reading

warming engine vacuum reading

white exhaust smoke

I'm pressed for time this morning, but am planning to try again this afternoon. Also, for the first time, it backfired! Actually, several times...

Edit by Peggy M (same day). These are short VIDEOS ... very cool to see and worth it, even if just for the sounds!

Any coolant odor from the exhaust, or bubbles in the radiator? It's beginning to look like you might have a head gasket leak. Do you have a way to put a little pressure in the radiator? If you're running an original radiator and/or heater core- - - -emphasis on A LITTLE- - - -like 4 pounds or so! I use an air hose and a pressure regulator for a paint gun. Leave the pressure on overnight, pull the spark plugs, and spin the engine with the starter. A leaky head gasket or a cracked cylinder head will squirt coolant from the plug hole where the leak is.
Jerry

I've noticed that spark plugs 5 and 6 appear to be wet. Plugs 1 through 4 are bone dry and sooty looking. I haven't noticed bubbles in the radiator. This afternoon, I'm planning to get the truck our of the garage and get it up to temp, so the thermostat opens and I fully circulate the coolant. The exhaust smells strong, but not like gas or coolant. I'm wondering if it's just the difference between a catalytic converter and straight exhaust.

Afternoon update videos:

not super cold, but not operating temp

at operating temp and thermostat open

Lots of smoke, maybe steam and a couple of backfires. When it cools down, I'll check radiator levels. This morning I checked and could not find any condensation on the oil filler cap or dipstick.lipstick.

Radiator levrl update: lost about 1/2 inch of coolant level after running the engine and thermostat opening.

Your last video looks like steam to me but without being there it's really hard to tell.

Rub your finger in the tailpipe while its running. Is it greasy and oily or wet and sooty? If it's wet, dab it on your tongue and see if it's bitter (or sweet of the coolant hasn't been changed in many years). If it's bitter or sweet, it's coolant and you have a head gasket leak.

Close-up of tailpipe. A lot of soot and felt slippery, but not totally oliy.... Smells burnt, like exhaust.

I would do a compression test on all cylinders and see how those two with the "wet" spark plugs compare to the other four.

I'm leaning toward a coolant leak into the cylinders from the head gasket.

Compression test tomorrow.... Results afterwards.

Roger that vector, Victor.

Compression test results in pic. Of note, cylinders 6, 5 and 4 are wet. Cylinder 4 was wet around the perimeter, but the electrode was dry. This was different from the last time I looked at the plugs. I was surprised that 6, 5 and 4 were as high as they were, but none was as high as Cylinder 1. Thoughts?

What are the cylinder leakdown test percentages, and where is the leakage going? A couple of tablespoons of carbon buildup in varoious combustion chambers can account for the differences in compression pressure. A compression test is about as accurate as the old phrase "Measure with a micrometer, mark with chalk, and cut with an axe!" Real mechanics don't rely on a compression test for anything beyond a "wild-donkey guess" about what's happening inside an engine.
Jerry

Jerry,

I don't have a way to pressurize the coolant system as you had suggested. So, I have no data to share on that.... I do find it interesting that cylinder 4 is now involved in the wetness. Cylinders 5 and 6 have been fully engaged in wetness from the outset.

Do you have $9.00? This regulator also can be used to test cylinder leakage.

www.ebay.com/itm/266184282849?

Jerry

Ok, that is new to me. How do I set it up and exactly what am I measuring? As I've mentioned many times, this is new territory to me.

I've outlined the procedure several times, but here goes again- - - -

Get each cylinder at, or slightly past top dead center on the compression stroke- - - -
Set the parking brake or chock the wheels with the transmission in high gear. On an automatic transmission vehicle, use vise grips on the flywheel to keep the engine from turning.

"Easy button method"- - - -line up the distributor rotor with the cylinder you're testing.

Make a pressure adapter by threading a spark plug shell with the porcelain insulator removed with a 1/4" NPT tap and screw an air line quick connector into it. Use thread sealing tape or pipe dope on the quick connect to make sure there's no leakage at the thread. Screw the adapter into the spark plug hole.

Set the pressure regulator to 100 PSI with the air line disconnected and no airflow. Connect to the cylinder and record the pressure- - - -90 PSI would be a 10% leakdown rate. Listen at the carburetor, tailpipe, and oil filler to find out where the leak is happening. Intake valve, exhaust valve, or piston rings. Bubbles in the radiator indicate a leaky head gasket or a cracked head.

Works every time and it's MUCH more accurate than a compression test.
Jerry

I think I follow your intent in making the adapter. I do not follow you on how I'm measuring the pressure. If the adapter is screwed into the spark plug hole, what am I using to measure the pressure and where is it connected to the engine?

The regulator has a gauge built into it that indicates line pressure. Adjust the gauge to 100 PSI from the air compressor with no airflow, then monitor the pressure once the air line is connected to the cylinder. If you don't have an air compressor, maybe you can borrow one? PM me for a phone number and we can discuss the process in a 2 way conversation.
Jerry

Made the tool, pic attached. On to the actual test....

Looks like a winner! I have a few of them set up for different thread sizes- - - -10MM, 14, and 18.
Jerry

Data (in no particular order of importance):

1. All cylinders lost a small amount of air. All of the loss seems to be around the pushrods coming through the head.
2. Cylinder 5 lost significantly more than any other.
3. No radiator bubbles.
4. No air through carburetor.
5. Just realized that I forgot to listen to the exhaust pipe...sigh.
6. 3 on the tree is a crappy transmission.
7. Air pressure lost was around 5 lbs for all except #5. Cylinder 5 lost about double or 10 lbs and it was both audible and you could feel it.
8. Watch your toes until you are sure it's not going to roll....

How is the air nipple attached to the plug base? Threaded? Glued?

3 on the tree is great transmission. Bullet proof.

It sounds like you've got a pretty good engine there- - - -even #5 is within limits for pressure leakage, and that one should improve with enough run time for the rings to seat to the cylinder walls better. Do a good tuneup, and "drive it like you stole it!' These old engines are tough as a two dollar steak, and the more you work them the better they like it.

Otto- - - -once the porcelain is removed, the plug shell is threaded with a 1/4" NPT tap. Install the quick connect with some pipe dope or teflon tape to prevent leakage.
Jerry

Jerry,

Roger that! I'll try to get up the nerve to take her around the neighborhood and see what happens...!

Otto,

My reference to the transmission is because it tried to roll over me, regardless of how I moved the shifter! I'm guessing I'll need to adjust the shift rods down the road. It was weird. It wanted to remain in whatever gear it had been in before I moved the lever. Quite shocking to have the truck lurch forward or backwards even with all four wheels chocked! Once it was properly in 3rd gear, there was no movement. So I learned to gently apply the air until I knew if it was going to roll or not. Lesson learned!

It doesn't count unless there are photos or videos. Here's the video!

Thanks to everyone for pitching in! I couldn't have done it without you all! There is still at least one issue with the engine. It started to sputter as I entered the driveway and died when it got into the garage. Some more troubleshooting will be required.

Thanks to my wife for shooting the video!

Time to go back to sheet metal work and deal with those cab corners....

Ps, I've owned this truck since 2007. It did not run when I bought it. This is the very first time that I've had it under its own power and on a road. Even if it's only a few feet, it was amazing.