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Jul 21st, 2025 | | | | Joined: Jan 2022 Posts: 1,986 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2022 Posts: 1,986 | 72 years later, what sealant should I use?
Would I be able to use the sealant between the outer and inner sides of the glass and the gasket (without removing the glass and the gasket from the truck or must I remove the windshield and gasket and start completely over? My gasket is probably 11 years old and still fairly pliable.
Last edited by klhansen; 02/21/2024 4:49 AM.
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12
'52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
| | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,828 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,828 | Bill, I got a CRL non-hardening sealant to use for that. CRL7708 CRL Windshield and Body Sealant from Amazon. It's supposed to be a suitable substitute for the 3M08609 used in the video that I posted in Derail77's DIY Gallery thread.
I think if your gasket is still pliable, you could make it work.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 | I use a product called Arbomast,it's a non setting non aggressive butyl based sealant specifically intended for this,i'm in the UK but I'm pretty sure it's available over the pond too.
You can use it without removing the windshields,cut the nozzle to approx 1/4" diameter then apply it between the glass and seal and also between the seal and bodywork,don't scrimp with it,let it ooze.
Work around the seal 'massaging' it to spread the sealant under the rubber.
Clean up is fairly straight forward too,I use a thin edge plastic scraper with a mild soap/water solution to remove the excess and a final clean up with paintshop panel wipe.
1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in ScotlandIn the Stovebolt GalleryMore pix on Flickr. I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
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