I’ve got a 1951 (or maybe 52, it’s a bit ambiguous) 2 ton GMC with a 248 in it. Generator is missing its tag and I’m trying to figure out what model it is so I can source some 12v field coils for it. Rock auto shows the same part number of delco 15006 or 1100013. Rock auto doesn’t list a 2 ton truck though, just a “truck”. Think I can trust that number. I can get a set of 12v coils with brushes other rebuild parts off eBay that’s listed for the 1100013 for a John Deere 70
I hear you on the 10si. I even have one sitting there ready to go. I kinda like the challenge of keeping it more original looking though. I’m a fan of old impractical technology, hence the 70+ year old truck. I want to be able to sneakily upgrade the ignition components without anything looking different.
You think it’s pretty safe to say all the 248’s got the same generator? Or at least the same sized case generator?
There are plenty of 12v generators out there. No need to convert a 6v genny to a 12v genny.
By 1956, everybody had switched to 12v but most didn't switch to alternators until 1965.
Find a 12v generator from just about any other car or truck between those years and I'm sure you'll be fine. Probably won't even be too hard to find one that fits the original brackets.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
There are a lot of 12V Delco-Remy generators on Ebay, and some of them even work. You'll probably need to install a longer mounting bracket, since most of the 12V units had the stepped-down field frame that was a couple of inches longer than the 6V units. Check Ebay for 12V negative ground aircraft generators and regulators- - - -plenty of them listed, and they will have much lower running time than auto or truck units. The battery and the rest of the electrical system won't care if the vehicle rolls, floats, or flies. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
The first attachment shows the generators used on '51 and '52 GMCs, including your 1100013 number which was used on 100 thru 350 series trucks. "Tons" were only used by GMC on marketing documents, not in technical information like Shop Manuals or Master Parts Books.
The second attachment shows an example of of the marketing documents. I'm assuming that your "2 ton" is a model 350. So any of the generators listed for 350 models such as 1100013, 1105855, 1102716, 1100013, 1105003 or 1106757 could have come from the factory. And who knows what may have been swapped into the truck since 1951.
This page from the 1953 edition of the GMC Master Parts Book should help you to figure out the "ambiguity" around 1951 vs. 1952. Just look at the last 4 or 5 digits of the truck's serial number as shown in the third attachment.
Last edited by Bill Hanlon; 02/18/202410:22 PM.
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
My truck is a 1952 by the description and serial number, but for some reason the registration and title says 1951 hence the ambiguity. It’s a 350 series 354-24 C2505, which strangely doesn’t fall within any of the stated serial ranges exactly, bit seems 1952 is the best bet. It is the right wheel base for a 354-24 and has the right engine.
It was restored sometime in the 90’s so who knows what was changed then. I’m tempted to buy a similar looking 12v gen and just move my wide pulley over to it. Someone did a half donkey swap to negative ground already. The ammeter points opposite of reality. Cross my fingers and hope the mounting is the same. Or maybe the end caps from mine can swap over.
All you need to do to get the ammeter to work right is swap the wires on the back of it side to side. It doesn't care what the polarity is- - - -it works the same either way. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
What do you mean by PO wiring? I’m aware that the ammeter should be fine swapping poles, just one more thing that’s “almost right” on this truck. The battery cables weren’t replaced either so the clamps don’t fit well on the posts. Have yet to see if they put a negative ground voltage regulator on. Swapping that to 12v anyways.
My plan is to swap the field coils and voltage regulator and then hide a buck converter up under the dash to supply a 6v bus for the heater, fuel gauge, and whatever else I don’t feel like changing out.
Ah yeah. The PO was an exceedingly kind man, but I fear his confidence outpaced his competence as a mechanic a little bit. I drove the truck home when I bought it, servicing the brakes afterwards made me realize I was lucky to make it home in one piece.
It is a good idea to inspect everything on rigs of this vintage anyway. Even if a previous owner didn't out their personal stamp on it, 70+ years of wear and tear adds up.
