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Joined: Apr 2009
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I have a 56 GMC 630 with Dayton wheels and vacuum over hydraulic brakes. Sat for 20 years. I got 3 corners to roll by whaling on the backing plates with a sledge hammer. One rear still won't budge. What are some tricks to get it unstuck? I'd prefer not to damage parts. Thanks for any ideas you might have!


1955 GMC 630, 1959 GMC W660, 1958 Chevy Spartan 80
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We assume you have tried to back off all of the wheel adjusters, put 4 wheels on it and try rolling the truck. Heat is kinda' the last resort but you could try some gentle heating of the drum and rolling.


1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
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Thumping directly on the drum with a 8# sledge hammer shouldn't hurt anything and should help break things loose. Spraying clean water inside the drum might help also and it won't ruin the shoes like an oil based penetrant would. Rocking the truck back and forth with another big truck or tractor might help also...make sure both rear wheels are used so you get the most ground contact/friction.

Been there, done that!

Mike B smile


Mike Boteler

1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod
1956 8400 Wrecker w/Holmes 525
1956 9200 Tractor w/Allison Automatic
1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep
1953 Willys M38A1 Fire Jeep
1978 Jeep CJ-5 Navy Jeep
1984 Jeep CJ7
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If the truck runs, can you gently rock it back and forth with the engine?


1965 C60 school bus | 1967 GMC 6500 school bus
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Thanks for the ideas! I have dragged it with all wheels on the ground, both forward and backward (it's not running yet). I have not tried to back off the star wheels, but will give that a try. I haven't tried spraying anything in there, although it would be hard to aim it. That would be worth trying as my guess is that the shoes have 'chemically' bonded to the drum. I have a feeling they're not going to give up their grip easily. I probably will end up doing some more hammering and maybe some heat, too. Will keep you posted.


1955 GMC 630, 1959 GMC W660, 1958 Chevy Spartan 80
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This truck doesn't have parking brakes on the rear wheels, does it? Is it like mine with the drum and shoes on the back of the transmission?


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Yes, it's like yours, with the e brake behind the transmission.


1955 GMC 630, 1959 GMC W660, 1958 Chevy Spartan 80
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Remove the wheel, bolt a piece of angle iron to a couple of lug studs, and jack up on the angle iron while massaging the drum with a BFH. Use the weight of the truck to help the drum turn.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
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if you have not backed off the star adjuster definitely start there! It's easiest to do and hopefully the strong springs inside pulling the shoes back in can possibly break that chemical bond you think might be happening after the adjuster is loose. Just had to do this to mine when I got it home. Very few people know how to properly adjust drum brakes. They are usually way to loose ( causing to much pedal travel till engagement) or to tight ( and they burn the heck out of the drums and shoes)


1965 Chevy C60 Grain Truck
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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Jerry has the ticket for that. I had one wheel stuck, but not as bad as yours. There was no way I could loosen the adjuster, as it was rusted in place. Prybar and BFH finally got the drum off.

A last ditch approach would be unbolt the wheel cylinder(s), anchor pin, and cut the shoe hold-down pins and remove the shoes with the drum.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
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Wow, more great ideas! If I can't get it free now I'll be too ashamed to let the group know. Thanks everybody


1955 GMC 630, 1959 GMC W660, 1958 Chevy Spartan 80
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Herder of Cats, Goats, and Sheep (moderator)
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Originally Posted by jaycoop
Wow, more great ideas! If I can't get it free now I'll be too ashamed to let the group know. Thanks everybody

No shame here. We are happy to help.


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If you can't get it unstuck, then at this point you might as well hose it down good with penetrating oil. The linings are likely shot, anyway.


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Tronman has a great point. If it’s that far gone you are probably going to put new friction material unless you can find the whole assembled shoe! Did you get it unstuck?


1965 Chevy C60 Grain Truck
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Not yet, thanks for asking. I'm waiting for a slight break in the weather, as the truck is presently in a windswept field. I will definitely let the forum know the outcome!


1955 GMC 630, 1959 GMC W660, 1958 Chevy Spartan 80
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I have an under roof spot for it once I get it rolling.


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I imagine you have the same snow and wind that I’ve got here in Ohio᠁. Wonderful to work outside in!! Ugh. Spring can’t come soon enough!


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Worked on it yesterday. Due to the tilt the truck sat at for many years, a LOT of moisture got into and around the drum. Major corrosion. I was successful at freeing up the star wheels and backed them fully off. Then I used oxy-acety heat, lots of penetrating oil and heavy hammering on the drum and backing plate. No movement yet, but I'll let things sit for a while and keep applying penetrant. I have thought about cutting off the heads of the guide bolts and maybe try to remove the wheel cylinder bolts. This might give the shoes a little more room to move? I just don't want to have parts rattling around inside that might jam against the drum when trying to roll it into the barn.....and I'd rather not remove the drum where it sits.


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I would say keep spraying it for a couple days. In my experience hitting it a couple times a day, multiple times really does help! heat is always your friend too which you know well! best of luck and thanks for the update- I've been rooting for YA!


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Is only one drum locked up? How about making a heavy duty dolly from angle iron and caster wheels for that tire to rest on, and drag the thing into the shop "as is"?
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
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Well you got the adjusters backed off, that's progress! As an aside, have you cracked the hub yet to see if it's got 90w or just rust inside? Hopefully the bearings themselves aren't seized up.


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I'm quite sure it's the drum and shoes which are locked as there's lots of rust dust and flakes coming out. But I'm not sure yet. Good idea on the roller. I may have to use more of a skate as it's a ways to go on soft ground. My problem is limited equipment to lift and pulI.
That one locked wheel makes it tough. Thanks everybody for your support and ideas.


1955 GMC 630, 1959 GMC W660, 1958 Chevy Spartan 80
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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If you have a tire that's aired up on that wheel that's locked up, you shouldn't need anything under it to drag it to the shop. It should slide just fine. You might need a tractor or 4x4 if you have traction issues with a 2WD vehicle doing the dragging.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
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You never know, the dragging might bust it loose now, after all the work you've put into it.


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Finally got it! I had the rear axle sitting on its own weight for a week using a lever as Jerry suggested; kept knocking at it with a sledge and used torch heat. I thought I saw a little movement so I put a wheel back on with the axle still jacked up; wrapped the tire with a long webbed pulling strap several times around like a yoyo; hooked a chain to the end of the strap; pulled it with another truck and it broke free! Thanks to all of you for your ideas and encouragement!


1955 GMC 630, 1959 GMC W660, 1958 Chevy Spartan 80
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Posts: 28,674
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" I love it when a plan comes together!" Hang in there!
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Joined: Feb 2024
Posts: 45
A
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Hell yes!!!!


1965 Chevy C60 Grain Truck
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The strap around the tire was a great idea

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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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Posts: 9,830
Persistence paid off!! That strap idea sounds like it did the trick. I'll have to keep that in my back pocket in case I run into a stuck brake.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 389
T
'Bolter
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I've got an old vehicle around here with a stuck brake and I might have to do the strap trick. Good call!!


1965 C60 school bus | 1967 GMC 6500 school bus

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