So can someone point me in the direction of moving radiator foward for this swap. I know buy the adapter . I don't want that mostly because of wanting parts I can get from the flaps instead of ordering from internet. Surely someone has done this nicely. Can a gmc radiator be mounted in a chevy? I noticed they sit further foward. Thanks for any insight.
Last edited by Peggy M; 02/16/202412:51 AM. Reason: added more info to the title
My 54 gmc with a newer 235 all I had to do was mount the rad on the grill side of the rad support so it moved it forward the width of the rad support .Only had to move the horn as it was mounted on the front of the rad support and the bolts got in the way.If you have your 216 and the waterpump is good ,keep it for if you decide to buy or make a plate . I have the plate and waterpump on my to do list as the truck will get hot sitting in traffic .
I can't see why it would get hot. Maybe a shroud would help. I'm planning on dropping radiator down also to center fan more. I have a 5-6 blade high pitched fan from the dirt track days. Should move plenty of air.
You can buy the adaptor from a fellow ‘bolter , so no internet involved. Another issue with moving the radiator forward is you will need to cut the hood latch panel an inch or so the width of the radiator. You may also need new hoses as the original style will no longer be long enough.
Should you decide to go the adaptor route, contact Pre ‘68 Dave the inventor of this adaptor plate. He offers it to us thru his email or PM.
I highly recommend emailing Dave, [email protected]. He also has a website that has allot of info on old Stovebolts here. [chev235guy.blogspot.com]
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Last edited by Phak1; 02/16/20241:49 AM.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
The rad I don’t think will go any lower it will hit the crossmember . The plate phak1 advised is the best solution .My truck is a gmc so I did not have to cut or alter anything ,I think I never even drilled holes in the support ,but I did forget about the hoses .So if you add it up not much difference in cost between the plate vs hoses .Only other cost is the waterpump if you don’t have one and the 3/8 pulley ones are getting harder to get.
The rad I don’t think will go any lower it will hit the crossmember . The plate phak1 advised is the best solution .My truck is a gmc so I did not have to cut or alter anything ,I think I never even drilled holes in the support ,but I did forget about the hoses .So if you add it up not much difference in cost between the plate vs hoses .Only other cost is the waterpump if you don’t have one and the 3/8 pulley ones are getting harder to get.
Already have new waterpump and agree the other pumps are becoming scarce. You can still get the stock replacement for the 235 from the parts store. That's why I'm going the route I am.
Rejecting a good, proven fix isn't a really good idea. If you go ahead and probably butcher things up, then maybe you will understand why the adapter plate for the 216 style water pump was invented in the first place. Good luck! Jerry
Last edited by Peggy M; 02/16/20244:39 PM.
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Here is what you will have to do to your hood latch plate to move the radiator forward. I was not happy when I found what a previous owner did to accommodate a 235 swap. It took me a several hours to restore this back to stock.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum