I have been given a somewhat complete fresh air heater for my '50 3100, and I am wondering if what I have is complete or semi-complete. What I have is the housing with the motor and fan, defroster ports, a power switch and heater core. I have looked at the factory accessory installation manual and it shows a heat control valve plumbed into the system. Is that really necessary, or can I run the hoses with a shut-off valve at the thermostat housing? This truck never had a heater installed, and I have not been around either version of the factory heaters to know just what is needed.
Hey TJ. Moving your post to Interiors for some responses.
~ Peggy M 1949 Chevrolet 3804 "Charlie" - The Stovebolt Flagship In the Gallery || In the Gallery Forum "I didn't see this one coming. I don't see much of anything coming. :-O"
Brad Allen has a lot of pictures to show what was origional. It looks like you have it all except for the control valve or ranco valve .the valves are around but most likely need to be repaired.Some folks use a cable with a aftermarket valve to control the flow through the heater.here are some of brads pictures.Also there is a site from a bolter Dave’s tech net and he has a lot of imformation to restore the heater.
My truck did not have a heater previously. I bought and refurbished one that did not have the control valve. I installed it without a control valve except a manual shut off valve that I can close in the summer months to minimize the extra heat in the cab. I have not run it yet but plan to control the heat delivered by fan speed. Given the limited number of times I anticipate that I will drive the truck when heat is needed I am hoping not to need to add the complexity of a control to the system.
You can hook it up eliminating the ranco valve, but you will have full heat all the time. Unless you throttled it with the shutoff valve.
Although pricy, ranco valves do come up on eBay occasionally. An alternative would be a universal control valve controlled by a cable similar to a choke cable.
Last edited by Phak1; 01/06/20242:06 PM.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Contact these three vendors to see if they can help you. Joe Hudacek says he has hundreds for sale from 1950 on up. Jim Tucker also has them to sell. All three vendors rebuild your old ones.
Jim Tucker Rebuilder of Harrison and Ranco heater control valves. New valves for sale 1950 -1975 29597 Paso Robles Road Valley Center, California 92082 760-749-3488 http://www.heatercontrolvalve.com/
Joe Hudacek Rebuilder of Ranco and RobertShaw heater valves. New Ranco heater valves for sale 6606 Banks Avenue Superior, Wisconsin 54880 715-392-6169 Cell: 218-213-8906 http://www.heatervalves.net/
Atwater Kent Temp sending units, coils, fuel sending units, tube radios, vacuum advance, voltage regs 12 Jacques Street Worcester, 1920s to 1970s (mostly 30s, 40s, 50s) MA, 01603 (508)792-9500 http://www.mykmlifestyle.com
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
From the responses, it seems that my best option is to go with the shutoff valve at the thermostat housing. I do not forsee much driving during the time that a heater will be needed, and I can shut the flow off in the summer months with the shutoff. Thanks for all your input.
I use the shut-off valve Phak1 posted above. It works great. I have my "Throttle " cable hooked to it for easy on / off. . I have an Arvin heater so it's a bit different then the fresh air but the valve is the same concept. Good luck. Todd
From my reading, the Ranco valve can only be rebuilt if the thermostat bulb and tubing is not damaged. I looked into getting two I have rebuilt and the tubing was cracked on both releasing whatever is suppose to be in them. At least as of 2 years ago.
Chip
'Rusto-Mod' '51 Chevy 3600 5 window | C4 Corvette front/rear suspension & drivetrain | everything else looks old and stock '92 GMC Sonoma GT #15 of 806 '91 GMC Sonoma GT Extended cab 1 of 1 Trucks, Trucks.....and more Trucks
I bought the rebuild kit, only to discover that my tube was too messed up to rebuild it. I went the same modern valve posted above, and it works great. Just make sure you use 2 lbs or less radiator cap- or you will destroy your heater core.
Last edited by Norcal Dave; 01/20/20245:24 PM.
~ Dave 1950 Chevrolet 3600 3/4-ton with 261 engine & T5 Transmission
I bought a Ranco valve from Joe Hudacek. He took my old one to rebuild. He can repair the thermostat bulb and the capillary tube too. Since I'm in Northern MN it is only 90 miles to his shop in Superior Wi. Very nice man and reasonable price for his service. He even gave me the control knob that says warmer for free. I tried it out this fall, and it is nice to control the heat with the turn of the warmer knob.
